Rich's Garage. Other work being done

[whitemike]

Not as much as one might think Mike. Having thoughts maybe??



Ebay?? Jinky...I can only imagine what the sellers fee would be for that!! I have several motors here that I might build on spec to sell if I ever get caught up. Watch out for some of those JDM engines, they could be in bad shape to begin with. Rebuild your motor!

I just don't trust any machine shops around here, and I wanted to rebuild this motor. It's got crower rods, JE pistons, new oil pump, new water pump, etc.. that I'd like to transfer over. Would like new rings, bearings, proper piston to wall clearances to prevent slap. Etc. Since you clearly are a seasoned 7M vet. I'd like go thru you.

Mike

 

[suprarich]

I am sure I can help out Mike. Give me a call sometime. Will will be out most of the day today to get ready for a race but you can leave me a message.

 

[whitemike]

Thanks Rich.

 

[SlimLim]

Looks great and good thread!

Probably a stupid question, but how tight do you have to do up the ARP studs before you tighten them up with the nut?

 

[suprarich]

Got stranded at that stinkin race for a few days. Air cond. pump motor Idle pulley on the motor home's engine froze up and knocked the belt off the motor. Stupid CAT motors can't be short belted either since the location of the tensioner next to the air pump prevents this. So got stuck out of town for 3 days.

Looks great and good thread!

Probably a stupid question, but how tight do you have to do up the ARP studs before you tighten them up with the nut?

Not a dumb question at all Slim. A very overlooked and miss-understood thing actually. The allen head key in the top of the stud is really only there to remove the stud. You want to clean the block thread first with a thread chaser. Not a tap, but a chaser or thread cleaning type tap. Then I use a thread sealer on the threads that go into the block because I have seen to many late model 7m blocks crank from the little coolent hole over to the center three stud holes. The sealer will prevent coolent from climbing the threads if the block ever gets a hairline crack. The studs are only installed finger tight into the holes. Have care to wipe up and clean any thread sealer that oozes up from the stud as it threads in prior to it drying.


Here is some pics of a 6m crank I polished for someone using a 600 grit ruby belt.

 

[suprarich]

Going to pull the motor and trans from this car. Someone wants to buy the full 5 speed swap.

 

[thedave925]

Interesting point about the block cracking. What kind of conditions would cause cracking?

 

[suprarich]

Not sure, but I am thinking that some of them have been from over heating and maybe some of them from just the design of the late model block. None of the ones I have seen have much in common.

 

[suprarich]

Here is a pic of the start of an interesting project a friend of mine is doing. This pic is of the dual spec clutch kit, but I had the hubs converted to a GM spline type hub. His 7m will be mated to a custom made dogbox transmission for use on the 7mgte. I hope to have more pics of this and some more info on what was done.

 

[suprarich]

Tires away for a certain 7m powered car overseas.

Custom built water to air heat exchanger for the same 7m

 

[arknotts]

^^ Amazing welds on that aluminum heat exchanger! Did you do the welding Rich? If not I'd love to know who did; I still have some of my aluminum intercooler piping that needs welded.

 

[suprarich]

I wish I did, but I am not that steady yet. Was thinking of getting a new miller syncrowave tig, but it is a bunch of $$

 

[suprarich]

2jz head rebuild, re-surfaced and out the door.

 

[suprarich]

New project. Bunch of pics to come. These pics are of the block fresh out of the hone.

 

[CyFi6]

Bro I hope you didn't forget to machine the timing cover with the block....

JK :icon_bigg

That block looks delicious!:yum:
Keep up the good work!
Wish there were more machine shops out there that did meticulous work like you!

 

[suprarich]

Keep watching, the block gets much better!

 

[suprarich]

Installing the oil shaft bearings.

This is the tool I had made to install the 7m cam bearings.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Hey Rich, how do you set the clearances on your mains? When torquing the ARP studs down, after using plastigauge, wouldn't torquing them a second time give incorrect torque since they have streched? You used plastigauge or a feeler gauge to check clearances?

 

[suprarich]

I don't use plastic gauge. I only use math. I have real high precision telescopic gauges that I gauge the hole with bearings installed. Then I put it on a gauge vise and measure it with a 4 decimal micrometer. Then I measure the crank with a 4 decimal micrometer and subtract. If the oil clearance is not where I want it, I will then polish that crank journal untill it is reduced in size to give me the exact oil clearance. If I want .0018 clearance. Then all 7 will be dead on .0018

The arp will not change its torque value after torquing a second time. If you torque them to 80 lbs once, and then to the same number a second time, it will still be 80 lbs. You actually want to torque them a few times prior to final assembly.

 

[suprarich]

Here is a shot of the tool I made to cut the oil shaft bearings to size.

New oem oil shaft bearings cut to size with the handy home made tool. Only problem is it makes them looked used once you cut the bearings. Had a few customers in the past think that the bearing was never changed.

Painted the block a nice metalic dark grey.

Wash Wash Wash

Blow dry the block, give a light spray with wd-40, and then install the arp main studs.