Results of the Ebay Special T70 test on my car

[sethron71]

My motor is completely fresh, I will get you the full list a little later.

Most boost it would let me run was 18psi and I did hit fuel cut even tho it was 10.8:1. To prime the turbo I put it all on and except the feed line. Poured some oil down the turbo to get it wet. The I turned it over till I got oil pumping out of the top line(turbo not spinning) and then put it all together. I am not sure if the pumping oil to the top is totally necessary as long as you make sure all of the inside of the turbo is wet with oil before spinning it up. It is amazing how fast a dry spot on a bearing can gual(sp) and no longer seal. Again mod list will come with SF is back up.

Seth

 

[IJ.]

I do the prime thing by pulling the plugs and cranking it in 15 second bursts until the gauge reads pressure.

This way it's primed fully (pouring oil in doesn't get into all of the internal passages) By the time you get the plugs back in and ready for "Main Engine Start" You could pop the EFI Fuse crank it a few times then you're good to go.

The other downside of pouring oil in is you always spill a little, this makes a mess/smoke on startup.

 

[Bigzavs]

i did it more the way u did IJ, but i dont think i cranked it long enough, im gonna check the drain today, and if that doesnt fix it then im gonna get it rebuilt and lube the hell out of it before i start the car again

 

[IJ.]

BZ: If it's just been flooded there won't be any damage......

Back in the day the old T04's were really bad for this (ask how I know)

Once the drain was corrected the smoke went away and as far as I know the turbo is still going strong many years later!

Another thing that can cause this is if the PCV is plumbed incorrectly or the motor has lots of blowby it can slow the drain enough to flood the turbo.

 

[siman]

Funny,

I topped off my oil last week .5 quart over max......heh.

The turbo started smoking like it was going bad........a week later its not smoking.

( I.E., I have an oil leak on the rear main crank seal.....its not THAT bad...but I really need to get it fixed just because its screwing up my driveway:naughty: ).....

I am a firm beliver in priming a turbo RIGHT. I do what IJ does, take out the plugs and just CRANK her over until you see the little oil pressure gauge go up....or if your aftermarket....go over or whatever:biglaugh:

-Jonathan

 

[Bigzavs]

well its the turbo, i looked at the drain and it had a kink in the hose, fixed that, and got it started again, only for it to still leak, not as much but still leaking, and i now have oil in the i/c piping as well. so time for a rebuild or a new turbo

 

[IJ.]

BZ: Now the drains clear just run it awhile it's going to take ages to stop smoking as EVERYTHING is coated in oil!

The smoke you're seeing is "normal" step back take a deep breath relax and all will be well!

You might want to pull the IC and it's pipes and give em a flush with some Gas to clean the oil out!

<quit trying to find an excuse for a new Turbo>

 

[Bigzavs]

but its fun to make an excuse for a new one

a question for u IJ-i looked and im still gettin oil coming down around the exhaust housing, will it do this as it heats the oil thats inside up? cuz im no longer leaking onto the ground like i was but im still getting some thats coming from what seems like the exhaust housing. but its no where near as bad as it was

 

[Reign_Maker]

Zav, just let it run... Find a nice stretch of road that has alot of mosquitoes onit and kill 'em all, lol...

Im glad you tried it, and I hope its just a bunch of risidual oil in the lines and it all burns off... I commend you for taking the time and money to test out something for the community, as much as it's irritating you, it's helping alot of people, so thanks from us!

 

[IJ.]

BZ: It's very rare to break a turbo because of too much oil.

They're really simple devices and don't have any "seal" that can blow out like a rubber lip seal it's just a simple labyrinth and a piston ring seal.

In some cases if it's been cooked you can get a carbon buildup on the shaft/ring seal and they'll leak but in your case I'm guessing it's just polluted!

Run it around a bit and see if it comes good!

 

[dbsupra90]

i agree w/ IJ. if it was smoking that bad it will take a while for all that to blow out.
also when i prime my motor i fill the oil filter w/ oil and pull the efi fuse.

 

[Adjuster]

I'm seriously considering this turbo as it's low cost, and appears to be well made. (The Masterpower unit.)
Check out the website for their facility. It's not made in China by slave labor, but in Brazil in a very clean looking modern factory.
I've owned a Tarus pistol for a few decades that is a copy of the Berretta, and never regretted that it was 300.00 when the "real" thing was about 600.00.
I had a slight kink in the drain hose, and as mentioned, it made my car into a nasty smoker under boost. (Lots of blow by, no drain and it pushes oil into the exhaust, but only when I'm pushing more than 15psi, the rest of the time it's clean as can be.)
To fix it, I'm going to build the catch can finaly that is connected to the intake pipe, so it will have vac. on it all the time. This should reduce the amount of blow by pressure, and I'm going to a AN10 stainless drain line so no more kinks in the hose.

Anyone pushed a Masterpower turbo into the 30psi range? They are claiming over 600rwhp on a RB26 motor, so that and more should be possible with my larger displacement 7M.

Oh, and priming my oil system is easy. I just flip a switch, wait till the pressure comes up and then crank it over. (Accusump 3 quart system.)

 

[MK3Brent]

I'm seriously considering this turbo as it's low cost, and appears to be well made. (The Masterpower unit.)
Check out the website for their facility. It's not made in China by slave labor, but in Brazil in a very clean looking modern factory.
I've owned a Tarus pistol for a few decades that is a copy of the Berretta, and never regretted that it was 300.00 when the "real" thing was about 600.00.
I had a slight kink in the drain hose, and as mentioned, it made my car into a nasty smoker under boost. (Lots of blow by, no drain and it pushes oil into the exhaust, but only when I'm pushing more than 15psi, the rest of the time it's clean as can be.)
To fix it, I'm going to build the catch can finaly that is connected to the intake pipe, so it will have vac. on it all the time. This should reduce the amount of blow by pressure, and I'm going to a AN10 stainless drain line so no more kinks in the hose.

Anyone pushed a Masterpower turbo into the 30psi range? They are claiming over 600rwhp on a RB26 motor, so that and more should be possible with my larger displacement 7M.

Oh, and priming my oil system is easy. I just flip a switch, wait till the pressure comes up and then crank it over. (Accusump 3 quart system.)

I know you've been waiting for an update... lemme copy my thread from SF over here...

 

[NashMan]

i just poor some oil done in the feed hole i use stright 30 weight thou

then crank here up

in less the systme has bean drian all out and stuff then i may prim it then start it up

 

[fc3swrx]

Analysis............its a piece of crap. got the car all running and idling great after being down a while and i notice alot of smoke coming out the exhaust....... go over to the turbo and tons and tons of smoke coming from it. pulled it all off and turns out that it was spraying oil into the downpipe. so from my personal experience their turbos are crap. im using their manifold with extra bracing, but i am using an HKS wastegate. just wanted to say that some people have good luck with that companies turbos, but from my experience they are crappy. time to order and wait for my new turbo to get here

I'm still new to the Supra's but are you running stock oil pressure?, I've seen really high oil pressure from aftermarket oil pumps do the same thing. I personally experienced it on my RX7 TO4B.
I let it run a while and all was good.

 

[Supracentral]

 

[supra90turbo]

LOL'age

 

[s383mmber1]

LOL'age

im sick of your crap.

 

[Doward]

Just going to point this out - the freaking paper with the turbo states that you must HOLD THE COMPRESSOR WHEEL STILL AND LET THE VEHICLE IDLE FOR 20 MINUTES TO FLUSH THE SNOT THEY USE FOR ASSEMBLY LUBE OUT.

I'm convinced this is 90% of people's problem with the XSPower turbos, as far as blowing seals. I've run over 10k miles on my Camaro, and the only oil burned was after I blew 2 pistons running lean with the turbo @ 12psi.

Here's mine, I happened to have disassembled it last night, just to look at it.

I'll go check the odo on the Camaro.... - Holy shit, I ran it 17,743 miles before I pulled it off, due to 2 busted pistons. More miles than I thought Turbo gave me positive pressure right around 3000rpm, 5psi @ 3400, and 12psi @ 3700 rpm, on a 3.1L V6.

And believe me, I was NOT easy on this turbo, I just did the proper breaking of holding the compressor wheel while the engine warmed up, and let hot oil run through it to dissolve the assembly lube they use. When we fired it up, the comp wheel BARELY moved, and by the time 20 minutes went by, it was spinning like a little helicopter at idle.

 

[Doward]

Nobody's got anything to add to this?