ok so when i bought my 3rd supra the kid said it just had a hg job done like 10k ago and now it was blowing out white smoke before he parked it. so i finally got the head off yesterday. and what do you know, half of the studs were finger tight. is there a torque spec for these and how do i go about putting them back in properly?
Replacing HG On My 88
- Thread starter Swifty
- Start date
Does it have ARP head studs? If so check out the ARP website. If they have an allen socket head on them, they are stock bolts, and should be torqued to 72 ft lbs. If they are ARP bolts, again check the website for the spec sheet. You should do some research on here about the retorque procedure that most people reccomend, there is a lot of head gasket info on this website.
for me, i did 3 passes, there is a sequence to removing bolts and to tightening them. i did mine at 90ft/lbs with arp studs
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=55
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=55
i think 7m arps are 80ft-lbs
also depending on how bad the car was over heated would explain why the bolts were loose.
I just dead a bhg job for a customer, it was overheated so bad the intake head bolts were completely loose and the exhaust head bolts were so tight i had to use a 2 ft breaker bar
also depending on how bad the car was over heated would explain why the bolts were loose.
I just dead a bhg job for a customer, it was overheated so bad the intake head bolts were completely loose and the exhaust head bolts were so tight i had to use a 2 ft breaker bar
The studs themselves only need to be threaded finger tight in to the block. If you could pull them out with an alan key before loosening the nuts though, yes, they weren't tightened properly.
If the gasket already started leaking, a retorque may not give you a proper seal. You may have to take it all apart
If the gasket already started leaking, a retorque may not give you a proper seal. You may have to take it all apart
I hope you didn't damage threads while locking on to them. I'd run a nut up and down the side you locked on to before reusing and see there's any rough spots.
Yeah, probably because they put their head studs in upside down
One of my buddies actually did the some thing. He swore to me that there was no alan key hole, but yeah....foot in mouth much? :icon_razz
One of my buddies actually did the some thing. He swore to me that there was no alan key hole, but yeah....foot in mouth much? :icon_razz
Chase the holes in the block they need to be spotlessly clean/free of crap and dry before you install the studs.
Im not exactly sure, but call to make sure. Built my buddys motor and he got a set of studs from aaron like last year april or so and the torque sheet said 90. I called arp and aasked them and they said it was because of newer lube.
Thats why older bolt sets will have 80.
Also its not the bolt/stud that changed. The lube has direct reflection on whjat torque should be applied. Hence why using motor oil you need to torque to like 120+ ftlbs.
Thats why older bolt sets will have 80.
Also its not the bolt/stud that changed. The lube has direct reflection on whjat torque should be applied. Hence why using motor oil you need to torque to like 120+ ftlbs.
Ok you guys got me confused. I'm re using the stock studs as my arp set is going into my build. I thought stock torque was like 65 and people were bumping up the torque by 20 to stop the leaking head gaskets. That is what I read in the past, but I may be wrong. And the studs are put into the block finger tight.