Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200
- Thread starter Funkycheeze
- Start date
Not unless you are still using a distributor - that ignitor is for the old style distributed 2JZ-GE
Yes - you need the GE ignitor from 98 and up. The GTE ignitor will NOT work as it is 6 channel.
Well, it might if you only wired up 3 of the channels, but honestly I have no idea.
Well, it might if you only wired up 3 of the channels, but honestly I have no idea.
I've picked up an IS300 igniter and can not wait to get ride of that silly miss. This will go on a stock ignition system being controlled by the AEM. After that, it's sequential injection time with the injector dynamics 1000s.
Time to use this 40r.
Time to use this 40r.
Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $2
The circuit above turns the 7M ignitor into a simple 3 channel ignitor with automatic dwell adjustment built in, for the cost of five 1N4001 diodes.
I had this circuit on my 7M making around 500whp and revving to 7500rpm, with nice smooth idle... a few years ago.
The stock 7M ignitor is a great unit, it's the AEM standalone not being able to control it correctly that's the problem.
The circuit above turns the 7M ignitor into a simple 3 channel ignitor with automatic dwell adjustment built in, for the cost of five 1N4001 diodes.
I had this circuit on my 7M making around 500whp and revving to 7500rpm, with nice smooth idle... a few years ago.
The stock 7M ignitor is a great unit, it's the AEM standalone not being able to control it correctly that's the problem.
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Cars that still have the stock TCCS have this problem problem too. Mine did, several that Adam (drjonez) worked on did. It's likely due to noise and ringing in the wiring harness as components break down over the years. In a close to stock car the TCCS seems more resistant to it though.
I had considered using the diodes, but with using the IS300 coils already, and a reluctance to keep using 20+ year old electronics, I decided to just bite the bullet and upgrade the ignitor to a much newer one.
Grounding the case on the AEM unit to the engine block (just by tapping the ground pins on the plugs) helps to reduce any residual missing.
Grounding the case on the AEM unit to the engine block (just by tapping the ground pins on the plugs) helps to reduce any residual missing.
a friend of mine installed the ds62 ignitor and if he changes the spark teeth from 4 to 12 the car dies. he has followed the instructions.
the car misses and breaks up when boosting. runs better on multiplex.
any ideas?
hal
the car misses and breaks up when boosting. runs better on multiplex.
any ideas?
hal
I used this guide and did it to my car as we converted it to AEM, and it works great! Just be sure to go through the dwell timing wizard and select the 98+ 2JZGE setup. Pulls cleanly all the way to redline without any issues!
EDIT: I used a IS300 DH61 ignitor.
EDIT: I used a IS300 DH61 ignitor.
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Yes, as long as you use the ignitor I specified (DH61)
Hal, I have no idea - but you said DS62 ignitor, maybe it is wired differently? I have personally seen this mod work on at least 4 cars now.
Hal, I have no idea - but you said DS62 ignitor, maybe it is wired differently? I have personally seen this mod work on at least 4 cars now.
Halsupramk3;1445960 said:
we solved the problem. my coil harness for the 2jzge coils is slightly different than the oem 7m coil pack harness. the coils are of course waste sparking the correct two plugs. so my ignitor harness is specific to my coil harness. my ingnition phasing numbers are .5, 4.5, 8.5 and it works on my car. when i put my ignitor harness and ds62 ignitor on another car with 7m coils the ignition phasing is 4.5, 8.5, .5 so i have a wire crossed in the harness but it still works. the phasing and wiring is going to the correct coils/plugs on each system/car.
the ds62 ignitor is the same as ds61 but i think the difference is the dwell calculation being in the ignitor. just a guess but the ds 62 is more common. sure gets hot tho and i have some extra ds62s. my car is running great.
Good to hear. I bolted the ignitor to the metal of the engine bay to help dissipate the heat - the DH61 also gets quite hot, even on a 2JZ-GE with the stock TCCS.
Like I said, with the phasing it either fires on all cylinders, or it doesn't (either 2 or 4) so once you set the phasing properly, you are golden. The phasing for my setup is 4.5 8.5 0.5 because of the difference in coil 'numbering' that I discovered, but at that point I didn't want to redo the harness. For my guide I did it so that the harness makes the phasing make 'sense', that is coil 1 being cyl.1 and cyl.6, coil 2 being 2 and 5 and coil 3 being 3 and 4.
Like I said, with the phasing it either fires on all cylinders, or it doesn't (either 2 or 4) so once you set the phasing properly, you are golden. The phasing for my setup is 4.5 8.5 0.5 because of the difference in coil 'numbering' that I discovered, but at that point I didn't want to redo the harness. For my guide I did it so that the harness makes the phasing make 'sense', that is coil 1 being cyl.1 and cyl.6, coil 2 being 2 and 5 and coil 3 being 3 and 4.
Funkycheeze;1460866 said:
when you install the sequential injection and the ign phasing is 4.5, 8.5, 0.5 on coil 1,2,3 do we need to put any ign phasing numbers in coil 6,7,8?
Or do we just put injector phasing number in for inj 1,2,3 and 7,8,9? which would work independent to the ing phasing numbers.
in other words do i need to have coils 6,7,8 on also with ign phasing numbers for sequential injection? and the 6,7,8 will have more normal phasing numbers than the out of step numbers in 1,2,3? WTF am i talking about. bettween the ing phas and inj phas and coil input numbers it is a llittle confusing why it is set up this way.
hal
Just leave it as it is with spark teeth set to 12, and the spark tooth values the same as with batch fire injection. Setting the fuel teeth and fuel tooth values is totally separate, as in you can have 12 spark teeth for waste spark, and 24 fuel teeth for sequential injection.
the series 1 AEM can't do full sequential ignition because it only has 5 coil drivers (although people have done some serious modification to get around this) so i wouldnt bother setting anything other than the 12 spark teeth.
For the fuel tooth settings, for full sequential, you would set 24 fuel teeth, then say, if your injector numbers coincided with the cylinder number (inj 1 = cyl 1, inj 2 = cyl 2 etc.) you would set
inj 1 tooth = 0
inj 2 tooth = 16
inj 3 tooth = 8
inj 4 tooth = 20
inj 5 tooth = 4
inj 6 tooth = 12
you will also need to tweak the injector advance maps to get everything working well. Setting these values to 0.5, 16.5, 8.5 etc. will just change what the advance maps look like (they will have .5 of a tooth less advance) I just used the 0.5, 4.5 and 8.5 settings for ignition because the startup cal used 0.5 for spark teeth, and i didnt want to redo the timing on the engine, which would be off 0.5 teeth if i didnt set the ign with the extra 0.5, and it makes the guide more straightforward (no timing light required)
the series 1 AEM can't do full sequential ignition because it only has 5 coil drivers (although people have done some serious modification to get around this) so i wouldnt bother setting anything other than the 12 spark teeth.
For the fuel tooth settings, for full sequential, you would set 24 fuel teeth, then say, if your injector numbers coincided with the cylinder number (inj 1 = cyl 1, inj 2 = cyl 2 etc.) you would set
inj 1 tooth = 0
inj 2 tooth = 16
inj 3 tooth = 8
inj 4 tooth = 20
inj 5 tooth = 4
inj 6 tooth = 12
you will also need to tweak the injector advance maps to get everything working well. Setting these values to 0.5, 16.5, 8.5 etc. will just change what the advance maps look like (they will have .5 of a tooth less advance) I just used the 0.5, 4.5 and 8.5 settings for ignition because the startup cal used 0.5 for spark teeth, and i didnt want to redo the timing on the engine, which would be off 0.5 teeth if i didnt set the ign with the extra 0.5, and it makes the guide more straightforward (no timing light required)
On to the wiring:
Body Plugs____________________________________DH61 Igniter
4 Pin Input____________________________________10 Pin(GS300)_________10 Pin(IS300)
IGf (Not required)__LG-B__Pin Position #1___->____IGF__B____Pin Position #4__B-L
IGt (Coil #1)______LG____Pin Position #2___->____IN1__B-Y__Pin Position #7__GR-B
IGdB (Coil #3)_____L-W__Pin Position #3___->____IN3__B-R__Pin Position #5___B-Y
IGdA (Coil #2)_____L-B___Pin Position #4___->____IN2__B-L__Pin Position #6___B-R
6 Pin Output
Coil #2 Out_______L-Y___Pin Position #1____->____C3___B____Pin Position #2__G
Coil #1 Out_______L-R___Pin Position #2____->____C2___B-R__Pin Position #1__B-R
+12V/Coil Common_B-O___Pin Position #3____->____+B___B-W_Pin Position #9__B-W
Coil #3 Out_______Y_____Pin Position #4____->____C1___W___Pin Postion #10__B
Tachometer Out___B_____Pin Postion #6____->____TAC__B-Y__Pin Position #8__N/C
______________Wire to good ground point___->____GND__BR___Pin Position #3__BR
So If I am reading this correct...
C3 goes to coil #2 (plugs 2&5)
C2 goes to coil #1 (plugs 1&6)
C1 goes to coil #3 (plugs 3&4)
Is that correct?
Body Plugs____________________________________DH61 Igniter
4 Pin Input____________________________________10 Pin(GS300)_________10 Pin(IS300)
IGf (Not required)__LG-B__Pin Position #1___->____IGF__B____Pin Position #4__B-L
IGt (Coil #1)______LG____Pin Position #2___->____IN1__B-Y__Pin Position #7__GR-B
IGdB (Coil #3)_____L-W__Pin Position #3___->____IN3__B-R__Pin Position #5___B-Y
IGdA (Coil #2)_____L-B___Pin Position #4___->____IN2__B-L__Pin Position #6___B-R
6 Pin Output
Coil #2 Out_______L-Y___Pin Position #1____->____C3___B____Pin Position #2__G
Coil #1 Out_______L-R___Pin Position #2____->____C2___B-R__Pin Position #1__B-R
+12V/Coil Common_B-O___Pin Position #3____->____+B___B-W_Pin Position #9__B-W
Coil #3 Out_______Y_____Pin Position #4____->____C1___W___Pin Postion #10__B
Tachometer Out___B_____Pin Postion #6____->____TAC__B-Y__Pin Position #8__N/C
______________Wire to good ground point___->____GND__BR___Pin Position #3__BR
So If I am reading this correct...
C3 goes to coil #2 (plugs 2&5)
C2 goes to coil #1 (plugs 1&6)
C1 goes to coil #3 (plugs 3&4)
Is that correct?
i believe the first post says
Coil #1 is cylinders 1&6, Coil #2 is 2&5 and Coil #3 is 3&4.
remember the coils are from left to right coil 1 , coil 3, coil 2 in the coil pack
coil 1 is to c2
coil 2 is to c3 and
coil 3 is to c1 pins.
Coil #1 is cylinders 1&6, Coil #2 is 2&5 and Coil #3 is 3&4.
remember the coils are from left to right coil 1 , coil 3, coil 2 in the coil pack
coil 1 is to c2
coil 2 is to c3 and
coil 3 is to c1 pins.
The coil numbering is different between the 7M and 2JZ-GE, which is why you dont hook up c1-coil 1, c2-2 and c3-3
The coil numbering in the post above is for the 2J coils. If you are still using the 7M coil packs, you just need to make sure that C1 goes to the coil firing 2 and 5, C2 goes to the coil firing 3 and 4, and c3 goes to the coil firing 1 and 6.
The coil numbering in the post above is for the 2J coils. If you are still using the 7M coil packs, you just need to make sure that C1 goes to the coil firing 2 and 5, C2 goes to the coil firing 3 and 4, and c3 goes to the coil firing 1 and 6.
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