Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

[nuggets]

FC, I fixed the wiring to match your guide and used .5, 4.5, and 8.5. Tried to time it before starting and I'm not getting spark from coil #1 (either the 1 or 6 plug). Coil tests OK and so does the 12V power line to the coil. Plug wires test ok too. I still need to test the ignitor. Coils 2 and 3 spark. I'll recheck my setup in AEM Pro.

 

[adampecush]

can you get the car to idle on four cylinders? I found that mine could still idle on as little as two. if you can't get it to idle ob 4 cylinders, chances are your phasing is incorrect. to counter fc's post, I wired my igniter as he indicated but couldnt use the 0.5 4.5 8.5 phasing.

 

[nuggets]

adampecush, I checked the wiring from the ignitor to coil 1 and that appears to be good (I'm getting continuity at least). No, I can't get it to idle at all. If I keep the phasing settings that FC indicated, it feels as if the engine is trying to start as it sounds like I'm getting some type of ignition. If I change the phasing to what you have, I get nothing. I'm a novice at this and I'm wondering if my settings are incorrect. Here's what I have (I'm wired for sequential injection):


SEQUENTIAL IGNITION

Ignition Phasing:

Ignition sync: 24 teeth

Pickup Delay Comp: 130.00

IGN Tooth #1: 0.5

IGN Tooth #2: 4.5

IGN Tooth #3: 8.5

IGN Tooth #4: 0.00

IGN Tooth #5: 0.00

IGN Tooth #6: 0.00

IGN Tooth #7: 0.00

IGN Tooth #8: 0.00

IGN Tooth #9: 0.00

IGN Tooth #10: 0.00


- turn off multiplex (uncheck the box that says "Ign Mux Ign#1")

- Cam/Crank Sensor Options: Spark teeth = 12

- Enable Coils 1,2,3 and knock 1 & 2 for each

- Set the Coil Dwell Wizard for Toyota Coil (93-98 3.0L Non Turbo)


SEQUENTIAL FUEL INJECTION

- Disable injectors 4,5 and 6. Activate injectors 1,2,3 and 7,8,9,10. Also set "O2 feedback 1", "primary", and the appropriate knock sensor.

- Change cam crank sensor fuel teeth to 24.

Injector Phasing:

Inject Tooth #01=0

Inject Tooth #02=16

Inject Tooth #03=8

Inject Tooth #04=0.00

Inject Tooth #05=0.00

Inject Tooth #06=0.00

Inject Tooth #07=20

Inject Tooth #08=4

Inject Tooth #09=12

Inject Tooth #10=0.00

 

[Funkycheeze]

Was it running on the sequential injection previously? Maybe try the inject tooth values from the previous page that I posted.

Also I am not sure if 24 is the factory value for ignition sync. I thought mine was at around 0.5 but I would need to check.

 

[adampecush]

Ignition sync should not be 24...there are only 12 spark teeth, so that might be throwing things off.
As you mentioned you are using the stock coils, you should set your dwell wizard to the 87-92 supra coils.
Also, for the sequential injection, how did you wire it? As FC said, were you up and running on sequential injection?

 

[nuggets]

I wasn't running sequential before these mods, I was running the factory ECU. Regarding the dwell, I guess I got confused thinking that since I was running the DH61 I should set it to the mkIV NA wizard. I will change that.

I just opened the stock cal file and it shows an ignition sync of 1.15 teeth. Does that sound correct?

Regarding the injector wiring, I rewired the grounds for injectors 4,5,6 per the attached pic.

 

[adampecush]

i'm assuming you removed the white, white/red, and white/blue wires from the injectors....if you removed the other, solid colors, that is part of your issue. Did you make any changes to the fuel map to account for the change from batch to sequential? You need to double the fuel as injection is now happening once per 2 engine revs.

your ignition sync should be around 1.15. Aligning your engine timing and ECU timing will change this value slightly.

I had many problems when trying to set everything up at the same time - i ended up going back to batch injection and stock igniter only to find out that my DH61 was toast. working up from there my car now runs about as well as it can without dyno tuning.

 

[Halsupramk3]

as adam mentioned ignition sync is how you tell the aem where the timing is located in regaurds to the cam. this is where the timing is calculated from. it is a number representing not a timing amount but what position your cps is locked down in relation to the exhaust cam. if you rotate the cps you would have to change this number by using the aem set ignition procedure. this number will be different for everyone based on the position of the cps trigger wheel to G1 at TDC.

also remember coils are left to right 1-6: 3-4: 2-5. you can remember this in relation to women ages. 16 is too young, 34 is too old, 25 is just right. but that is NOT FIRING ORDER!!! Firing order is 1,5,3 6,2,4 that means coil 1 is the left coil 1-6 and coil 2 is the RIGHT SIDE COIL 2-5 and COIL 3 IS THE MIDDLE coil. dont know why toyota did that. so when you wire in the ignitor be sure you realize which coil is to coil 1 and coil 2.

i attached a 7M coil pack order pic.

 

[nuggets]

Adampecush, I did rewire the striped wires: white/blue for injector 4, white for injector 5, white/red for injector 6 so I think I'm ok there. I did not make any changes for fuel so that's another problem. I'll double it.

Hal, my ignitor wiring wasn't right to start but I changed it to the way FC indicated in the first post. LOL about the women's ages.

Thanks for the info guys. I'll make the changes indicated in the posts above and give it another shot tomorrow.

 

[Funkycheeze]

Also, stick with the dwell wizard for the 2JZ-GE coils as i describe. This makes it drive the smart ignitor properly, using either the stock 7M coils, or 2JZ-GE coils.

It is the ignitor itself that sets the dwell based on RPM. The dwell setting on the AEM box should be a static dwell for this type of ignitor, and the wizard for the 2JZ-GE coil works correctly.

 

[nuggets]

Thanks for the clarification FC. I'll make that change also and see what happens.

 

[ae86ma70]

also remember coils are left to right 1-6: 3-4: 2-5. you can remember this in relation to women ages. 16 is too young, 34 is too old, 25 is just right. but that is NOT FIRING ORDER!!! Firing order is 1,5,3 6,2,4 that means coil 1 is the left coil 1-6 and coil 2 is the RIGHT SIDE COIL 2-5 and COIL 3 IS THE MIDDLE coil. dont know why toyota did that. so when you wire in the ignitor be sure you realize which coil is to coil 1 and coil 2.

This is so very important. It is very easy to get this mixed up. I spent many hours trying to find and fix this simple mistake. It is also easy to overlook the coil numbering in the TSRM. Good picture attached. Thanks to Hal for pointing me in the right direction.
:thumbup::thumbup:

 

[nuggets]

I double and triple checked my wiring and still couldn't get a start so I threw in the towel and had it towed it to a good tuning shop. Turns out that I screwed up the wiring from the coils to the DH61. I mixed up the wire that I was supposed to leave disconnected with the wire that goes to the leftmost 1-6 coil (I left that wire disconnected and wired in the one we are supposed to leave disconnected). Anyway, he has the car started and it is idling like a champ. I don't know what settings, if any, he changed on the AEM. It goes on the dyno today for final tuning. Yay! A big thanks to everyone who was trying to help me out.

 

[ae86ma70]

Wiring issues FTW. I bet I rewired my igniter six different ways before I realized that the coils were numbered 1-3-2 and not 1-2-3. This confused the tuner as well, who then got me second guessing my original configuration (which turned out to be correct).

 

[Funkycheeze]

Follow the spark plug wires to figure out which coil is which - in my original guide, on page 1, I say which plugs should be driven by which coil numbers. If you use that as your guide, and my wiring directions and AEM setup, it doesn't matter if you are using the stock 7M, or the 2JZ-GE coilpacks.

 

[ae86ma70]

... - in my original guide, on page 1, i say which plugs should be driven by which coil numbers.

Yes you do. I just wanted to emphasize that this is easily overlooked, and Toyota's numbering is not what I consider to be the logical order.

---------- Post added at 01:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:14 PM ----------

On a related note, did anyone experience a higher idle rpm after swapping the igniters? Mine jumped from 900 to 1200, how do I fix this in the software setup?

 

[NashMan]

well i had aem some time ago but i sold it due to it's well bugs


i was going to do this mod and get rid of multiplex but some times it hard to find 2jzge ignitor and most of the time they will charge you up the ass

but if you grab one form an 97 to 2004 3.4 5VZ-FE Tacoma its the same thing and there cheep as fuck and can be found any were (even hill billy wrecking yards)
and they will not need tac adaptor as well

use could use the coils but not sure how powerful they are but my guess is there the same as the is300 coils

1 since a Toyota use uses parts allot

2 it came super charged form the factory

3 people are pushing the 3.4 to 500 with turbo and there is no issue that i have read yet


so i hope i help some of you guy save even more money

 

[SupraMKIII-NO]

Hi!

Can anybody post some pictures of where the OEM wiring for the igniter is? The wires going into the DH61..?

 

[Funkycheeze]

If you are asking for what it looks like in the 'donor' car for the DH61, it varies depending on the car. You just need the igniter module and a pigtail with at least 6 inches of wire.

 

[nuggets]

I don't know if this helps, but here's what a DH61 ignitor looks like (the unit with the red sticker on it. I think some also come with black or grey stickers).