rebuilt motor slower than bhg'ed motor!

AdrenalineOD

One helluva lucky noob
Jan 14, 2010
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Napa, California, United States
Got my baby back a few weeks ago. She's now very reliable but very, very slow (got owned by an '03 V6 Accord :3d_frown:) Before she finally conked out completely hg was mildly blown at cylinders 1 and 6, intake valves were all bent (apparently installed wrong by whoever rebuilt the motor in '02), rear half of the head was loose and exhaust manifold had a massive leak at 5 and 6 pipes. Had the same mods, K&N intake and BIC ddp (open wastegate). Catback was stock and I ran a 15 flat at 5 lbs. Now, a full head job, timing belt, mhg and arp studs and all new hoses and gaskets later, I'm running a 17.5. A 17. freaking 5. At 8 lbs. Wtf. I know the stock catbacks got to be a part of that horrible, horrible time but what else? Am I just waaaaay out of tune? Feel free to bash if need be but do please leave an idea too!:biglaugh:

Sudden thought: Boost leak???
 
Last edited:

hvyman

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Apr 17, 2007
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What size hg and did you do a rebuild?
How were all the intake valves bent when its an non interface engine and none of the valves are open at the same time?

I would be looking hard at how the motor condition is.

And for a mhg you need the both the block and head to be machined straight and flat with a mirror finish.
 

shaeff

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AdrenalineOD;1601415 said:
Got my baby back a few weeks ago. She's now very reliable but very, very slow (got owned by an '03 V6 Accord :3d_frown:) Before she finally conked out completely hg was mildly blown at cylinders 1 and 6, intake valves were all bent (apparently installed wrong by whoever rebuilt the motor in '02), rear half of the head was loose and exhaust manifold had a massive leak at 5 and 6 pipes. Had the same mods, K&N intake and BIC ddp (open wastegate). Catback was stock and I ran a 15 flat at 5 lbs. Now, a full head job, timing belt, mhg and arp studs and all new hoses and gaskets later, I'm running a 17.5. A 17. freaking 5. At 8 lbs. Wtf. I know the stock catbacks got to be a part of that horrible, horrible time but what else? Am I just waaaaay out of tune? Feel free to bash if need be but do please leave an idea too!:biglaugh:

Sudden thought: Boost leak???

Valves bent? You've really gotta screw something up for that one. The 7M is a non-interference motor.

With your mild modifications, I'd seriously look into checking the timing. Assuming that all the engine work was done properly (that's for you to figure out), then set your mechanical timing, and use a chopstick to check TDC on piston #1. Compare the actual TDC to the marking on the crank. If your crank shows anything other than 0*, get a new damper.

Once you have properly set the cam/crank timing, set the ignition timing to 10*BTDC. There's a how-to around here somewhere, in the engine tech section, written by me. Most of the "no power after rebuild" threads are usually due to boost leaks or improperly timed motors.
 

Nick M

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It seems like a stock 03 V6 powered Accord has 270 hp, and weighs significatnly less than your 230 hp Supra. I have no comment on a screwed up rebuild. I hope you get it fixed.
 

AdrenalineOD

One helluva lucky noob
Jan 14, 2010
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We can rule out a boost leak then, no fuel cut. Engine was rebuilt in '02 by the 2nd owner, paperwork indicates full rebuild costing nearly 10k, done by some shop in San Jose. From what I understand the valve guides were put in wrong so the valves were hitting the head at an angle, resulting in crap compression and failure to start when hot. My rebuild was done by KBR Performance in Vallejo, but we simply did what I mentioned above, full head job, HKS 1.2mm head gasket and ARP studs, oem timing belt and all new hoses and gaskets. We left the block alone as the bhg didn't result in coolant and oil mixing and the block, rings, bearings, rods etc. were all deemed to be in good shape. Head and block were machined to mirror finish. A buddy took a quick look and he says timing too but I failed to understand his reasoning. Studying up and going to check/learn in a bit, thanks for the input!
 

91supran/a

Offical BAMF!
Dec 10, 2007
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my car was the same way after i bought it and it ended up being the timeing i dont even know how it ran honestly cause i would put the timing light on it and the tick on the crank wouldent even show up under the light lol so i pulled the CPS turn the crank to tdc on compresion stroke and set the cps as the book says and it ran like a totally difrent car ...
 

hvyman

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AdrenalineOD;1601682 said:
We can rule out a boost leak then, no fuel cut. Engine was rebuilt in '02 by the 2nd owner, paperwork indicates full rebuild costing nearly 10k, done by some shop in San Jose. From what I understand the valve guides were put in wrong so the valves were hitting the head at an angle, resulting in crap compression and failure to start when hot. My rebuild was done by KBR Performance in Vallejo, but we simply did what I mentioned above, full head job, HKS 1.2mm head gasket and ARP studs, oem timing belt and all new hoses and gaskets. We left the block alone as the bhg didn't result in coolant and oil mixing and the block, rings, bearings, rods etc. were all deemed to be in good shape. Head and block were machined to mirror finish. A buddy took a quick look and he says timing too but I failed to understand his reasoning. Studying up and going to check/learn in a bit, thanks for the input!

You need a smooth flat machined surface for a mhg.
 

shaeff

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Nick M;1601606 said:
It seems like a stock 03 V6 powered Accord has 270 hp, and weighs significatnly less than your 230 hp Supra. I have no comment on a screwed up rebuild. I hope you get it fixed.

I wasn't going there. LOL
 

AdrenalineOD

One helluva lucky noob
Jan 14, 2010
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Napa, California, United States
Sorry, I meant block internals were left alone, but it was machined with the head. When I was spanking A3 2.0Ts and Boxster Ss on a BHG I kind of dropped Hondas to the lower part of my challenge list. More the fool I, it seems. Anyway, just checked ignition timing and it's crap; like 91supran/a said, the tick didn't even show up under the light lol tomorrow I'm checking base timing. As for the shop I got mixed up with another paper, the shop that did the '02 rebuild was actually in Lodi not San Jose.
 

te72

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My old roommate had the best bit of wisdom I've ever heard concerning this topic:

"A Supra always runs it's best right before dying."

Mine ran awesomely right before the 7m bhg'd itself a couple years back...
 

mytmk3

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Oct 16, 2007
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te72;1601881 said:
My old roommate had the best bit of wisdom I've ever heard concerning this topic:

"A Supra always runs it's best right before dying."

Mine ran awesomely right before the 7m bhg'd itself a couple years back...


Ohh I had so much fun the few days before she came a knocking :)
 

AdrenalineOD

One helluva lucky noob
Jan 14, 2010
39
0
6
Napa, California, United States
Quick update before work. Haven't gotten to base timing yet but I did a quick code check and I'm getting 34 (abnormal turbo pressure), 42 (no speed signal) and a 71, which apparently doesn't exist??? Turbo has me confused because boost is smooth and constant; nevertheless checking everything related as soon as possible. Speed signal I'm assuming is due to the fact that my speedo cable has been broken for years BUT I never got a code for it until after the rebuild. Ideas?
 

hvyman

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Apr 17, 2007
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Boost leak, speed sensor, and egr.

Fix those and see how the car runs.

71 EGR System Malfunction
Diagnosis
•EGR gas temp below predetermined level during EGR operation.
•Open circuit in EGR gas temp sensor signal (THG).
Trouble Area
•EGR system (EGR valve, EGR hose etc.)
•EGR gas temp sensor circuit
•EGR gas temp sensor
•VSV for EGR circuit
•VSV for EGR
•ECU
 

91supran/a

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Dec 10, 2007
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Sterling, Virginia, United States
iirc 34 is fuel cut i was geting that when my lower intercooler pipe was cracked it also caused my turbo to cook cause i was beating on it during that time so u might wanna check for leaks and also reset that cps like i said set to TDC compression stroke and set the cps with the middle hole lined up with the notch in the houseing and slide it back in...