Rebuilding your own door locks with pictures

billspreston01

New Member
Jun 2, 2005
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North Carolina
***Work in progress*** (changing pics)

I know I’m not the first person to have one of my door locks freeze up on me or get so bad that you can’t even get the key in. This is just a basic cleaning and lube of your door locks. If you get really ambitious you could try and find new parts but I have yet to do so. I am NOT a certified locksmith or a professional at this, but I have done it to my Supra several times (drive it in the winter and they get jammed up every year).

What you’ll need to rebuild the lock:
-A small flathead screwdriver
-Some sandpaper. I usually use a 400 grit or so.
-Lubricant: they make lubes that are meant for locks (graphite lubricant). I was using "lockeeze" but I ran out. This time around I used "white lithium grease" but this will attract dust and become thicker and may not work over time (ran out of graphite lube)
-The key that goes with this lock

What you’ll need to remove the door panel:
10mm wrench
Phillips screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver

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First remove the speaker cover and the lock bezel (in green) they don’t have any screws
Then remove all of the screws outlined in red (I think I got them all)
To remove the handle you first have to remove the soft plugs, and the 2 screws at the very front (right of the picture) have plastic covers you have to pop off). Also remove the courtesy light (lower left)

To remove the panel pull on the bottom carefully. There are 2 clips holding it in place. Once those let loose just slide the whole thing up and off.

To remove the lock you have to unclip the little plastic clip on the metal bar (don’t know technical terms for those parts), then the alarm sensor on the back of the lock (just spread the tabs slightly and pull it off. Be careful the wires for that sensor are attached to a metal bar to keep them out of the windows way. Then remove the 1 10mm bolt holding the lock in place. Slide it out and now the fun begins


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Lightly sand (or wire wheel or however you wish to do it) the outside of the cylinder, the inside of the housing, the flapper door if you wish, and each one of the tumblers individually. (lie the sandpaper on the table, place 1 tumbler on it, and slide it around with your finger for a few seconds on each side. Then put the tumbler back where it was.

Once everything is clean you're ready for assembly and lubrication.

Place each one of the tumblers back into the cylinder. You can see that there are springs alternating on each side therefore each tumbler only goes in 1 way.

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Here’s the tumblers in the cylinder (terrible picture but you get the idea)

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Now put your key into the cylinder. All of the tumblers should be pushed down and sit flush with the cylinder. If you mixed up the tumblers this is how you’ll know

EDIT: If you have a busted cylinder all you have to do is take the tumblers that match your lock and put them into a new cylinder.

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Now with the key still in the cylinder slide the cylinder into the housing. It will only go in and turn 1 way. Once you have it in there take the key out and leave the cylinder in the housing. Now go to the back of the lock and replace the spring (what makes the lock turn, and then return to it’s original position). Then replace the metal plate with the plastic clip (use my pictures for reference if you need to but it should only go on one way. I think this piece changes from drivers side to passenger side). And finally replace the “E” clip.

Now turn to the front of the lock. Here is where it can get tricky and may take a few tries.

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Now if you’re doing the drivers side you’ll have to put on the clear plastic ring. I would keep pressure on the lock and put your finger THROUGH the ring (pinky finger?) and then use that finger to press on the lock while sliding the ring into place. Do the same for the outer cover. Once you have everything stacked into place and the outer cover on you can push those small metal tabs back into place. I a) push really hard with a screwdriver both down and in to get it as tight as possible. Or b) use a screwdriver and a small hammer.

Now…you might be wondering “what about the lubrication”. I apply liberally everywhere when putting everything back together. I don’t think you can actually hurt anything unless it gets too close to the little electric led wires or whatever they are. Oh yeah, if you’re little glowing ring works then don’t get too much lube on there as it is clear and it will look goofy. My lithium grease I just used came with a little straw for the end and I shoved that through the flapper door and sprayed until it came out everywhere (AFTER I lubed the inside of the housing, the outside of the cylinder, the tumblers and their little holes and everything else.)

Now you can reverse the steps to put it back in.

Edit: This is a spare lock (hence it being so dirty) and I didn't actually lube it so you could see the parts in the pictures. On my good lock I put all of the metal parts into a "parts dip" for about an hour to help loosen all the debris.
 
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suprahooked

Built 7M
Jun 20, 2006
1,160
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36
pa
Dont use grease buy some graphite, Know i spelled it wrong but it sounds the same. [ Edit i corrected my spelling. LOL ]
 
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Clip

The Magnificent Seven
Oct 16, 2005
2,738
9
38
35
Virginia
spelled graphite, you can find it at any hardware or auto parts store. i also use superlube, some kind of teflon based lube that doesnt attract dust.
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
3,485
0
0
Denver, CO
Dry lubricants are highly recommended for locks. It doesn't give metal particles (worn from the wafers, key, cylinder and housing) anything to sludge up with.

A very good write up.

While you've got the lock apart put the cylinder back in the housing with the wafers removed. Check for noticeable play. Next inspect the edges of the wafers for excessive wear, both inside and out. If the curvature on the top (protruding face) of the wafer is not consistent with the curvature of the cylinder replace it. Personally I'd just cut to the chase and replace the following: Dust cap (door and spring thingy), cylinder, and all wafers and springs. After doing this you may need to have a key "code" cut, the slop in the old worn key may prevent it from opening the lock easily.

If you want some added security, you can rekey the lock for a much harsher cut order. This makes the lock far less likely to open for rakes and average cut keys (often mistakenly called "master keys"). The trick with aggressive cuts is getting it just right. You'll have to slightly wiggle the key while inserting and removing it as the wafers have further to move each time than they're typically designed for. If you've got remote entry like I do and only need the key as a fall back this is not a problem at all. If you're planning on robbing convenience stores for a living, don't go with an aggressive cut (or rebuild) as it'll take longer for you to get into the car if you accidentally lock it. :evil2:


EDIT: The part labeled "This piece isn't supposed to come off, so don't remove it" is the LED for the clear ring around the cylinder face. It's a 12v LED so if you want a different color pair up the rectangular LED in the color of your choice with the appropriate resistor and put it back together.
 
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Reign_Maker

Has cheezberger
Aug 31, 2005
5,767
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52
Florida
Great write up for sure... Im going to sticky it here for a few days so people can see it, and then move it to MK3 Supra Reference/Tech-Tips...
 

billspreston01

New Member
Jun 2, 2005
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North Carolina
sounds like a plan reign

I was using this stuff called "lockeeze" or something like that but I ran out and wanted to try something new hoping for an even smoother operating lock (a graphite lube is better but I do this evey year so dust isn't a problem). You could alwasy call the stealership and see if they can get you a brand new lock.

I agree with CRE. If you've got the time and know where to get the parts I would just replace the wear/worn out parts (don't know how much they cost). If you're just lookin for a quick fix to get your lock working this should work and last a little while.

p.s. that's a spare lock. The one in my car looks brand new after soaking for an hour in parts dip and then getting wire brushed/sanded

Does anybody have a picture of this led ring working? I thought that's what it was (buddy with a mkiv's got one). Mine has never worked. When does it come on? how do you make it come on? how long does it stay on....I'm gonna do a search haha. Just curious.

thanks for the comments
 

NewWestSupras

SoupLvr
Mar 1, 2006
611
0
0
White Rock
the lock keyring lights up with the same duration as the interior overhead lights. I believe they are on the same circuit, if you "lift" the driver's door handle when locked, the interior light will come on as well as the "lightring" to expedite entry. At least thats how it works on my soup...
 

bluepearl

New Member
Jul 21, 2005
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pa.
Mine works just as above, Drivers side handle only on mine. As far as lubrication goes, WD 40 will work just fine, maybe a spray grease that applies thin. With the protective key door, you don't have to worry too much about dust and dirt, although 15-20 years of non lube can get the critical parts all gummed up. Moisture would be a greater evil. When washing you're car, Don't spray that high pressure hose directly into it. Great write-up BTW Thanks!
 
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CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
3,485
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Denver, CO
The key ring and dome lights are triggered by a switch mounted on the handle assembly. If the dome lights don't come on when the door is locked, and the handle is pulled check the switch.
 

johnathan1

Supra =
Aug 19, 2005
5,056
1
36
36
Downey, California, United States
My locks still work fine...but they are a little worn out, and the little square metal plate around the flapper door on the driver's side is bent outward on both sides, like someone tried to break in, and cracked the door handle, as well as a couple small cracks in the door itself. :(

I won't be using my key anymore though :)...I installed an alarm with keyless entry, and wired it so that if anyone tries to open the door with the key, the alarm goes off. :D
 

billspreston01

New Member
Jun 2, 2005
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North Carolina
yeah, I wish I had keyless entry. As long as you use the locks they work fine but my dads truck (99 silverado) with keyless entry the locks hardly work at all since they've almost never been used.

my dome lights come on when I pull the handle and the car is locked and such but the LED doesn't come on. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement for this? The plastic connector that goes into the lock itself isn't supposed to come out which means you're not supposed to replace it (the lock housing itself is "pinched" down to hold it in place). hmmmm. I might have to play with it. It's one of those nifty features that I wish would work.

The white lithium grease can is hardly high pressure since the liquid itself is so thick and turns to a foam as it exits anyways.
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
3,485
0
0
Denver, CO
I haven't had mine apart either. Typically there's something thrown in to make disassembly harder. When you pull it look for a push pin or rivet that'll need to be drilled out.
 

supra87t/t4

Phase Two
Apr 9, 2005
219
0
0
MPLS, MN
billspreston01 said:
have yet to try this on my ignition but i'm pretty sure they operate on the same principal...anybody else chime in????

The ignition is significantly harder to get apart than the rest.

Also a note that the late 89 and newer keys/locks are slightly different but the same principals apply.
 

billspreston01

New Member
Jun 2, 2005
555
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North Carolina
my 87 and late 89 locks are exatly the same. i'm actually usig the 87 cylindr in the 89 husing now.

i'm sure the ignition is more difficult but if you do it slow and pay attention to detail i'm sure it's do-able