Really Stupid Coolant Issue.:cry:
- Thread starter unkillablepaseo
- Start date
My car had a combined deck of about 20 thou.. I used a stock thickness MHG and I've had NO issues so far. In fact, I love the extra power from the increased compression.
And the reason I say *studs* is because some people think ARP bolts are good. Sure, they're better than stock bolts.. but you aren't going to stretch or break stock bolts either. And with the minor cost difference between studs and bolts? Spend the extra 10 bucks to get the studs.
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And the reason I say *studs* is because some people think ARP bolts are good. Sure, they're better than stock bolts.. but you aren't going to stretch or break stock bolts either. And with the minor cost difference between studs and bolts? Spend the extra 10 bucks to get the studs.
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Totally agree with you guys... I have never had problems with the exhaust bolts though. And I think my ride already has some ARP hardware, cant remember if they are bolts or studs. I guess ill find out, can I reuse them if they are studs?
@ indigomkii what is the RA requirement?
@ indigomkii what is the RA requirement?
Generally speaking, if you had headstuds and a MHG.. you should never see a BHG unless you overheated
I think mine are torqued to 109 ft/lbs... I have to check that... its a spec I should know.. rofl.
in regards to exhaust studs.. usually you only have to fix them once.. after that, they aren't an issue. Its the original 100k mile engine that has problems usually with the stud generally stripping the threads.
I think mine are torqued to 109 ft/lbs... I have to check that... its a spec I should know.. rofl.
in regards to exhaust studs.. usually you only have to fix them once.. after that, they aren't an issue. Its the original 100k mile engine that has problems usually with the stud generally stripping the threads.
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thats quite an over tq. Typical stud Tq is 85-95 ftlbs depending on the kit. ARP changed the specs slightly through the years
I believe my studs where over tqed by the PO. Mine had circular cracks in the metal HG where the edge of the bore met the bottom of the gasket. The cracks outlined the bore OD perfectly. Dont know if the tq on the studs caused it but the indications sure pointed at that.
nothing on the 7m is tty. I like the simplicity tty offers for getting accurate tq each time though. Constant replacement sucks though if you have to pull things apart often.
I believe my studs where over tqed by the PO. Mine had circular cracks in the metal HG where the edge of the bore met the bottom of the gasket. The cracks outlined the bore OD perfectly. Dont know if the tq on the studs caused it but the indications sure pointed at that.
nothing on the 7m is tty. I like the simplicity tty offers for getting accurate tq each time though. Constant replacement sucks though if you have to pull things apart often.
damn grandavi... I checked to see if mine were torqued to 72 ft/lbs (arp head bolts were torqued more than that, didn't really bother to find out how much more)
had to check because my engine had ? parts @ ? torque. (previous owner had no clue) ?'s don't make me comfortable... luckily my engine was built right though.
had to check because my engine had ? parts @ ? torque. (previous owner had no clue) ?'s don't make me comfortable... luckily my engine was built right though.
^ unless you loosened each bolt/nut, you simply measured the breakaway tq. This will always be higher then actual fastener tq.
The tq wrench HAS to be moving smoothly and consistently to accurately measure TQ.
The tq wrench HAS to be moving smoothly and consistently to accurately measure TQ.
Well, its Reg Reimer's mechanic that torqued them, think he said it was 109, could have been a bit less. Definitely over 100 ft. lbs. though, but I will be seeing them this afternoon after they dyno my car anyway. (hopefully it gets finished today).
Last stage on my car... until I get the HKS Fcon Vpro installed...
Last stage on my car... until I get the HKS Fcon Vpro installed...
Yeah, If the torque was factory spec I would've known though... the guy was smart enough to use a MHG and ARPs so he had to've known something about what he was doing...grimreaper;1928254 said:
CyFi6;1928249 said:
But over 20 years would you really want to reuse the stock head bolts? Since the head bolts are torqued to 75 ftlbs, they're in their elastic zone which with added heat such as a BHG would cause them to stretch no?
If I'm wrong let me know.
No. That's why it's called the elastic region. And you'd need a lot more heat than that. My car went it's entire life with original head bolts. Ran a Greddy MHG using them for 15 years. Zero problems. No re-torque either. Installed and forgotten about.
jetjock;1928327 said:
Okay then I stand corrected, I had seen several times where head bolts were normally torque to yield. Guess this is just another toyota over-engineered thing.
You are confusing the present with the past. New Toyota engines typically use TTY bolts, but 25 years ago it was not common.
I like the MK3 because I find a lot of it was over-engineered. Its why I decided to keep the car and pour copious amounts of Legal Tender into it...
After owning new cars, other than the simplicity and perhaps elegance of the comfy new bells-and-whistles newer versions, I prefer the beasty "omg" feel of the mK3. Truly what gave Toyota the "Oh what a feeling" statement that they no longer use.
After owning new cars, other than the simplicity and perhaps elegance of the comfy new bells-and-whistles newer versions, I prefer the beasty "omg" feel of the mK3. Truly what gave Toyota the "Oh what a feeling" statement that they no longer use.