radiator seem credible?

[IJ.]

If it runs hot with no T Stat your cooling system is right on the edge capacity wise.

Mine will just keep getting colder and colder at cruise if I don't run one, you can watch it open and close at cruise on the laptop.

 

[IwantMKIII]

If it runs hot with no T Stat your cooling system is right on the edge capacity wise.

Mine will just keep getting colder and colder at cruise if I don't run one, you can watch it open and close at cruise on the laptop.

edit: keep in mind, this was over an hour into the drive, not the start by any means

this was my T-stat, i had no idea until later, not my doing, previous owner:

mine gets colder and colder too. proof. this run ran colder than the temp guage would register, i never took a pic of it though. this is the reason how i found out my T-stat was cut (spring was cut out for some reason). over an hour into the drive

 

[IJ.]

Old school stupidity right there

In the old days when cooling was marginal at best and people didn't trust T Stats that was a common "mod".....

What does your car do under load temp wise?

 

[IwantMKIII]

^under load around 210, 220 tops. im aware after 210 it affects timing but nothing else sig. has affected the system.

feel free to let me know where the "stupidity" lies IJ.


highest temp ever was around 235-240, i blew a rad pipe while in traffic, i pulled off when i realized i went higher than normal and had no problems

 

[IJ.]

220 is pretty bad.... 240 is well into the danger zone.

Which "stupidity" would that be we have so many different sorts here on SM

If you mean my comment on "old school stupidity" I was talking about who ever gutted the T Stat thinking it was a good "mod".

 

[IwantMKIII]

220 is pretty bad.... 240 is well into the danger zone.

Which "stupidity" would that be we have so many different sorts here on SM

If you mean my comment on "old school stupidity" I was talking about who ever gutted the T Stat thinking it was a good "mod".

don't know who gutted t-stat. I would prefer 180* tstat, though i know you like the 192* stock set stat. B/c of my situation the 180 is better suited. On another note. like i said 220+ is extreme. im am fully aware of 210 timing issues. one reason why i'd like to resort to 180*tstat as it would give me more leeway. However, keep in mind 240 is NOT in the 'danger zone' according to TSRM, well, the gauge at least. even when i overheated into that cat. i was still a good region buffered into the "red" zone on the Stock temp gauge.

 

[Poodles]

You're misunderstanding what the T-stat does.

It's a device to keep the temp at the optimal level, namely at the spec on the T-stat. Any colder and it closes, any warmer and you don't have enough cooling capacity and your system is marginal.

If you had a fan shroud and a stock T-stat, it should quickly warm up and then stay at the temp of the T-stat. The stock temp gauge is as good as an idiot light. Once it moves up to the danger zone it's already WAY overheating.

A lower temp T-stat on a properly functioning cooling system will lower the temps to the T-stat's level, but at 180 it's too cold.

To the people that mentioned it, this is the same exact radiator as the Haste. Much like the cheap chinese coilovers, they will stamp whatever name you want on it, but it's the same exact product.

 

[IwantMKIII]

^i am aware how a T-stat works. The ecu chimes in iirc at 176*, a 180 would be suited just fine. Currently i have a 192 (stock), temp stays right around 190-195 except after a boost run in which it can hit upwards of 215 on the very hot days, a 180* would allow me to still be in the ECU operating temps and give me more of a margin to avoid that 210* timing line.

 

[jetjock]

That's it. I give up...

 

[Poodles]

I'm with you...

But I'm going to say this.

YOU ARE GAINING NO MARGIN. YOUR COOLING SYSTEM IS ALREADY MARGINAL. THE T-STAT CAN NOT MAKE THE ENGINE COOLER ONLY THE RADIATOR AND WATER PUMP CAN.

 

[Supra_Villan]

I'm with you...

But I'm going to say this.

YOU ARE GAINING NO MARGIN. YOUR COOLING SYSTEM IS ALREADY MARGINAL. THE T-STAT CAN NOT MAKE THE ENGINE COOLER ONLY THE RADIATOR AND WATER PUMP CAN.

i feel bad....i started a war, yet i was only seeking help. :3d_frown:
oh well! :biglaugh:

 

[Poodles]

It's alright.

Personally, I'd buy one of the radiators that is know to work without modifications. Koyo, fluidyne, PWR...

 

[IwantMKIII]

I'm with you...

But I'm going to say this.

YOU ARE GAINING NO MARGIN. YOUR COOLING SYSTEM IS ALREADY MARGINAL. THE T-STAT CAN NOT MAKE THE ENGINE COOLER ONLY THE RADIATOR AND WATER PUMP CAN.

I will be gaining a margin. My goal is simply to stay below the 210* mark when timing is affected.

We both understand the T-stat will be closed until the spec temp is reached. Assume stock at 192*, my operating temps under normal cruising condition are 190-195*. Now lets say i make a pass under boost and bit and on average this runs my temps up by 20*(assume this), that puts me at 210-215* range, where i do not want to be.

Lets say i had a 180* t-stat (still above the ecu's trigger 176* mark), average temps around 180-185. I do the same exact run under boost, again, it will raise my temps by approx. same amount, this puts me around the 200-205 range, still below the 210* mark and no timing is taken away.

do you see where im going with this now?

i feel bad....i started a war, yet i was only seeking help. :3d_frown:
oh well! :biglaugh:

no war, just miscommunication :icon_bigg

 

[Poodles]

No, it doesn't work that way.

You're hoping that your radiator will act like a heat sink, when that's not it's purpose. It's a heat exchanger.

Get a fan shroud on there and I can almost guarantee you won't go over the T-stat's opening setting. That is the way the system is supposed to work. If that doesn't help you have other issues you need to track down.

Cooling system on a 7M is not something to assume is up to the task. One overheat and you have a warped head and a BHG...


Seriously, if you doubt me, do your own homework or ask anyone in the know, like JJ or IJ...

 

[IwantMKIII]

^don't see how it doesn't work that way, if you add X amount of energy to something it will go up by Y amount of degrees. Obviously there are many other factors but getting to basics, that's where were at, your final temps are based on your initial starting point.

am i looking at this the wrong way or what?

 

[Poodles]

yes, because of the result without a t-stat

The t-stat is going to open earlier, but your ending temps are going to be the same

 

[supramang]

i feel bad....i started a war, yet i was only seeking help. :3d_frown:
oh well! :biglaugh:

AHHHHH! I now understand the villain part

 

[Supra_Villan]

AHHHHH! I now understand the villain part

lol no.
supra=my car, 1989 Toyota Supra
villan= my shitty ass location, Wellsville Missouri
I am actually not the villan type
:icon_bigg
i am only mischievous.
:kickinthenuts:

 

[IJ.]

Lower temp T Stat will only delay the time to hot.

 

[supraguy@aol]

To the people that mentioned it, this is the same exact radiator as the Haste. Much like the cheap chinese coilovers, they will stamp whatever name you want on it, but it's the same exact product.

Well, It seems that the Haste model at least accepts OEM mounts, so that's nice.

PS- If your cooling system truly has a safety margin, that would mean that your 'boost runs' wouldn't make the temp rise at all. Before I had my new rad, my car's temp would start creeping up in the summer whenever I turned on the AC. Now,-it's not that I see lower than normal temps, it just NEVER budges from normal. Also, I run Flex-a-lite 210's and have for over a year, but I'm going back to stock. The FAL's move a HUGE amount of air, but they're noisy, & draw gobs of battery power during cooldown. I just got a brand new fan shroud(late style w/two AC fan holes) from Jay Marks for $80 shipped. Can't beat it.