R154 Heavy Duty Single/Twin/Tripple Clutches

[blackgamer16]

I've been searching on here and SF.com to see what everybody ran and their opinions of course also their feedback for getting that multi-disk clutch. Still each thread starts out pretty good but dies off and the real answer never gets answered.

Am in the market for getting a twin disk, leaning more towards the OS giken ts2B clutch but good percentage went with the Spec but not much feedback. Also is their hydraulic slave cylinder finally fixed in their new kits?

Also what about rebuilding said clutch or if you found a good deal on a used but good clutch. Am mostly here looking at the OS Giken clutch. I was talking to RHDJapan and he mentioned on a flywheel replacement, i can use the sr20 Flywheel on their website to use with the R154/1jz setup. Hows that possible, isn't the two different bolt patterns, diameter or am i mistakenly wrong all together.

What i would like to get a good idea of your setup and how you feel about it. Plus an idea of what kind of mods you have and torque your putting down.

Facts i've gathered:​

Good:
1. A multi-disk clutch will 2x, 3x, etc amount the surface due to having an extra clutch(es) and Saving your Engine Thrush Washer from taking in all that engine load
2. Bypass the Neutral Safety Switch- to avoid thrush washer damage on a dry engine with helps prolong engine life.

Bad:
1. Adjusting your hydraulic slave cylinder to avoid leaks or installing a bump stop.

 

[aphxero]

400whp/400wtq
HKS gd max twin
Drifting and kicking the crap out of it
Never missed a beat yet.

Installs like stock. Comes with new slave piston. Pedal feel is a little heavier than stock so perfect.

Drove a few OS they are great but I've never really pushed one.

 

[Jostar]

400whp/400wtq
HKS gd max twin
Drifting and kicking the crap out of it
Never missed a beat yet.

Installs like stock. Comes with new slave piston. Pedal feel is a little heavier than stock so perfect.

Drove a few OS they are great but I've never really pushed one.

I got a Spec twin disk, But i can't give you feedback yet... The car is stored due to winter, I did drove for 2 city block lol & it felt great... Just give me a few weeks to fully test this clutch... Getting it tuned in a few weeks & see how it drives thru traffic..

 

[blackgamer16]

I got a Spec twin disk, But i can't give you feedback yet... The car is stored due to winter, I did drove for 2 city block lol & it felt great... Just give me a few weeks to fully test this clutch... Getting it tuned in a few weeks & see how it drives thru traffic..

Let me know, what kind of mods you going to be running with your setup?
And did your kit include the bump stop?

 

[Jostar]

Let me know, what kind of mods you going to be running with your setup?
And did your kit include the bump stop?

No bump stop... I am one of the very first that bought it when it got released.. As for mods here you go...

1JZGTE...
Master Power T70
AEM ems (biggest difference was made with the ems)
MKIV pump
MKIV 550cc injectors
HKS BOV
HKS DLI
HKS EVC5 boost controller
SPEC twin disk
DRIFTMOTION AFR kit
DRIFTMOTION IC KIT
TANABE HYPER MEDALLION catback


Get it tuned in a few weeks & hoping to reach 500hp at the wheels on pump gas.. I already had 422 on stock twins..

 

[soapra]

Im prototyping a new twinplate right now, but I have driven all twin plates made for the 1jz, and put thousands of miles on them. lots of them where hard miles.

 

[cjsupra90]

The thrust bearing life has nothing to do with engine load, its the thrust force to being pulled or pushed (depending on clutch setup) on the pressure plate to disengauge the clutch. Yes the mulit disc clutches tend to increase thrust bearing life because of increased surface area but its an indirect cause. The reason why is because having the additional surface area thus significantly more power holding capability. A substantually lower clapping force pressure plate can be used. The lower clamping force pressure plate requiers far less force to release it thus is causing far less thrust force on induced into the crank and against the thrust bearing....

The biggest downfall to a manual transmission car and thrust bearing life is engine start up and having to depress the clutch peddle to trigger the clutch safty switch inorder to start that engine. The thrust bearings have no direct oiling or any direct oil pressure they are feed oil from bleed off from the main bearing that they are on either side of. To add to the oiling problem, they are positioned in a vertical orientation and oil drans off pretty rapidly. Now add a prolonged period of not running and during start up, there is a period of time when there is very little to no oil film in the thrust bearings and having the crank under a pretty have thrust load during cranking from the clutch adds to excessively fast wear rates...

When I built my old 7m many years ago, I had installed a custom clutch setup (built locally by Tampa Clutch) and it chewwed up the crank thrust surface with in 6 months to the point that I had extreme amounts of thrust movement in the crank. I re did the lower end thinking that it was just a bad crank, well it did it again in about 6months.. So I started thinking about the problem and figured out that it was because of the clutch.

On the next lower end rebuild, I rewired the starter circuit so that I didn't have to step on the clutch to start the engine. I wired with a relay and triggered to relay from the parking / E-brake switch so that the engine wouldn't crank unless the parking / E-brake was on or engauged just incase I forgot to take it out of gear..... I wouldn't prevent the car form rolling, but it would help keep it from taking off.... Since doing that, thrust bearing / crank wear went to almost nothing. two and a half years later when I pulled the engine to swap in the 1UZ V8, there was still virtulally now ware and crank thrust movement was still well with in OEM specs.

 

[blackgamer16]

Im prototyping a new twinplate right now, but I have driven all twin plates made for the 1jz, and put thousands of miles on them. lots of them where hard miles.

Estimated price?

The thrust bearing life has nothing to do with engine load, its the thrust force to being pulled or pushed (depending on clutch setup) on the pressure plate to disengauge the clutch. Yes the mulit disc clutches tend to increase thrust bearing life because of increased surface area but its an indirect cause. The reason why is because having the additional surface area thus significantly more power holding capability. A substantually lower clapping force pressure plate can be used. The lower clamping force pressure plate requiers far less force to release it thus is causing far less thrust force on induced into the crank and against the thrust bearing....

The biggest downfall to a manual transmission car and thrust bearing life is engine start up and having to depress the clutch peddle to trigger the clutch safty switch inorder to start that engine. The thrust bearings have no direct oiling or any direct oil pressure they are feed oil from bleed off from the main bearing that they are on either side of. To add to the oiling problem, they are positioned in a vertical orientation and oil drans off pretty rapidly. Now add a prolonged period of not running and during start up, there is a period of time when there is very little to no oil film in the thrust bearings and having the crank under a pretty have thrust load during cranking from the clutch adds to excessively fast wear rates...

When I built my old 7m many years ago, I had installed a custom clutch setup (built locally by Tampa Clutch) and it chewwed up the crank thrust surface with in 6 months to the point that I had extreme amounts of thrust movement in the crank. I re did the lower end thinking that it was just a bad crank, well it did it again in about 6months.. So I started thinking about the problem and figured out that it was because of the clutch.

On the next lower end rebuild, I rewired the starter circuit so that I didn't have to step on the clutch to start the engine. I wired with a relay and triggered to relay from the parking / E-brake switch so that the engine wouldn't crank unless the parking / E-brake was on or engauged just incase I forgot to take it out of gear..... I wouldn't prevent the car form rolling, but it would help keep it from taking off.... Since doing that, thrust bearing / crank wear went to almost nothing. two and a half years later when I pulled the engine to swap in the 1UZ V8, there was still virtulally now ware and crank thrust movement was still well with in OEM specs.

thanks for the info- def saved me a possible headache.

 

[cjsupra90]

Yeah, I highly suggest doing something to eliminate the clutch switch so you can start without depressing the clutch pedal..

Wiring it up to function with the parking / E-brake is pretty much the only one of two ways that some sort of safety device is employed. Its not a perfect fix but atleast if you attempt to start with it in gear, it will help hold the car and buy you a second of time to kill it... It could also be done off the regular brake light switch so that you would have to have the brake peddle depressed (brake lights on) to start the car..

 

[slidingsidewayz]

No bump stop... I am one of the very first that bought it when it got released.. As for mods here you go...

1JZGTE...
Master Power T70
AEM ems (biggest difference was made with the ems)
MKIV pump
MKIV 550cc injectors
HKS BOV
HKS DLI
HKS EVC5 boost controller
SPEC twin disk
DRIFTMOTION AFR kit
DRIFTMOTION IC KIT
TANABE HYPER MEDALLION catback


Get it tuned in a few weeks & hoping to reach 500hp at the wheels on pump gas.. I already had 422 on stock twins..

how much boost were you running?

 

[tissimo]

Im prototyping a new twinplate right now, but I have driven all twin plates made for the 1jz, and put thousands of miles on them. lots of them where hard miles.

any feedback on the carbonetic twin/triple?

 

[Jostar]

how much boost were you running?

20PSI...... But the stock ecu is garbage... THe AEM ems made it possible..

 

[Zazzn]

I've been looking to twin disk/triples for a while, but I can't justify spending 3000-5000 for a clutch right now. I have a RPS 3200LB clutch it's a basically a stock clutch with a second diaphragm. I resurfaced the stock ceramic/unknown material to a 6 puck faramic and so far it's holding pretty good. Made 647 on my 67MM 2jz mk3 but it self destructed when I mis shifted and broke all the straps.. (also because it's so Fing heavy) it's really slow to slowdown and hard on the syncro's...

If you get a aftermarket twin disk/trip disk setup you can usually get much smaller flywheel setup's and they are usually much lighter then the stock setup by about 10-20 LBS which greatly reduces ware on the syncros and allows you to shift faster. Also if you get a clutch with no straps like OS Giken clutches (spec has straps) they wont break on a bad mis-shift. Also it's even worse if the straps break and destroy the bellhousing and cut a fuel line.. (happened to a mk4 guy) who ended up burning up the whole car because of that.

 

[blackgamer16]

I've been looking to twin disk/triples for a while, but I can't justify spending 3000-5000 for a clutch right now. I have a RPS 3200LB clutch it's a basically a stock clutch with a second diaphragm. I resurfaced the stock ceramic/unknown material to a 6 puck faramic and so far it's holding pretty good. Made 647 on my 67MM 2jz mk3 but it self destructed when I mis shifted and broke all the straps.. (also because it's so Fing heavy) it's really slow to slowdown and hard on the syncro's...

If you get a aftermarket twin disk/trip disk setup you can usually get much smaller flywheel setup's and they are usually much lighter then the stock setup by about 10-20 LBS which greatly reduces ware on the syncros and allows you to shift faster. Also if you get a clutch with no straps like OS Giken clutches (spec has straps) they wont break on a bad mis-shift. Also it's even worse if the straps break and destroy the bellhousing and cut a fuel line.. (happened to a mk4 guy) who ended up burning up the whole car because of that.

damn thats crazy about the mk4 def dont want that. lol But yah i feel you about putting down 2-3K on a clutch, i think my budget be right around the 1600-1700 price range so hopefully a vendour can do a groupbuy for a strapless setup. hint hint:naughty:

My Mods- feedback to come in hopefully April/May
AEM EMS
60mm turbo for now upgrade to a 7x mm down the road
2jzge w/ 268 cams, crower springs n street PnP
Rons FFIM

So i def in the market for getting something good! C'mon guys more feedback!

 

[aphxero]

You can get a nice twin for under $2k. Maybe $1k used. And even then rebuild parts are cheap.

 

[Keros]

The thrust bearing life has nothing to do with engine load, its the thrust force to being pulled or pushed (depending on clutch setup) on the pressure plate to disengauge the clutch. Yes the mulit disc clutches tend to increase thrust bearing life because of increased surface area but its an indirect cause. The reason why is because having the additional surface area thus significantly more power holding capability. A substantually lower clapping force pressure plate can be used. The lower clamping force pressure plate requiers far less force to release it thus is causing far less thrust force on induced into the crank and against the thrust bearing....

ect, ect....

That's a great explaination. I think I get it.

I always thought heavy duty single plate clutches killed thrust bearings because of loading the crank in such a way as to try to push it out the front of the car while actually being driven.

 

[soapra]

any feedback on the carbonetic twin/triple?

The tri disk carbonetics is like butter, feels just like stock on pedal feel and it grabs hard when you need it to. The carbon does need to be heated up before a hard launch at the strip, but on the street, drive it like you stole it. :biglaugh:

 

[tissimo]

The tri disk carbonetics is like butter, feels just like stock on pedal feel and it grabs hard when you need it to. The carbon does need to be heated up before a hard launch at the strip, but on the street, drive it like you stole it. :biglaugh:

excellent :evil2:

 

[dejacky]

The tri disk carbonetics is like butter, feels just like stock on pedal feel and it grabs hard when you need it to. The carbon does need to be heated up before a hard launch at the strip, but on the street, drive it like you stole it. :biglaugh:

Is the carbonetics triple clutch noisy with the R154?

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

Heavy duty pressure plates + puc disc + NSW will kill your crank thrust washer and add more on off (SHOCK FORCE) to your tranny! If you have enough torque it will kill your R154 on the drag strip with LSD & drags for sure.

Ideal clutch is multiplate with NSW bypassed better for drifting and drag (can be slipped better pedal feel less chatter & rattle) will make your car streetable only down side is cost, unlike the SBC you cant buy a tilton 3 disc with quater master nascar on ebay for under $100 shipped.

of course unless you adapt a T-56 to your engine.