Maybe somebody can shed a little more light on the resistor. Is it a some years have, some don't issue?
Quick Q about "necessity" of 12V Fuel Pump Mod!?
- Thread starter rcsupra
- Start date
I pulled my stock pump hanger , and it didn't have a resistor and wire, so I cut the wire off right at the resistor.
Can anyone tell me where the stock relay is? Shaeff's thread/diagram says its in the exhaust-side wheel well, but is it actually under the car? above the wheel well (remove trunk trim)? I didn't see anything resembling it from looking under the car so I'm looking for a location...
Can anyone tell me where the stock relay is? Shaeff's thread/diagram says its in the exhaust-side wheel well, but is it actually under the car? above the wheel well (remove trunk trim)? I didn't see anything resembling it from looking under the car so I'm looking for a location...
That's passenger front wheel! Has the big round plug I showed how to make a jumper wire for. It's between the Tems motor and the side of the car.
So do the cars with a resistor on the pump bracket not have the one in the engine bay?
So do the cars with a resistor on the pump bracket not have the one in the engine bay?
ForcedTorque;1075303 said:
Cool cool...I got home and looked at my TSRM and found it. Before I had a chance to, I presumed exhaust = rear of car.
Anyhow, I'll share with you the story I got from the dealer about my weird pump hanger. Apparently its possible that I received a hanger for a European/JDM MK3, being that the Supra was made solely in Japan and exported, he said its common for dealers to sell foreign-market parts to US cars. I still don't know what purpose it would serve, but I cut the wire off and finished the install today. Just have to wire up the relay and make the jumper wire but hopefully the hard stuff is over.
FT, Shaeff, and others...are you guys running on stock FPR's? I have a driftmotion aeromotive kit here with me, but I'd love to drive the car for a while and install it later. I know its bad to hit high rpms with a Walbro/stock FPR combo, but I drive like an 80 year old lady around down and have good throttle discipline. I'm wondering if I can get by without harm on the stock FPR for a little while until I have a chance (very busy schedule) to install the FPR kit.
I'm on the driftmotion Aeromotive. I have actually read (don't know exactly how acurate) that the stock regulator is also a 1 to 1 regulator like the Aeromotive, so you should be fine driving the way you describe. But, if you have the Aeromotive, I'd use it as soon as you feel up to it. To me, re-installing the tank was by far the hardest part of the job, and it wasn't that bad at all.
deabionni;1066740 said:
There is: just cut the coil wire. Snip. Done.
And not that it matters now but the thing on the pump hanger isn't a resistor...
I'm running an Aeromotive AFPR with SS braided lines and -AN fittings.
I'm going to take a wild guess here. I'm not well educated in electronics, but I can usually find my way around, and enjoy taking a stab at things from time to time, regardless of whether or not my blindfold is too tight.
Is it similar to the one in the engine bay, driver's side fenderwell? If so, is it used to help keep electrical "noise" out of the car overall?
IE: buzzing sounds to be heard through the speakers, etc...?
jetjock;1075702 said:
I'm going to take a wild guess here. I'm not well educated in electronics, but I can usually find my way around, and enjoy taking a stab at things from time to time, regardless of whether or not my blindfold is too tight.
Is it similar to the one in the engine bay, driver's side fenderwell? If so, is it used to help keep electrical "noise" out of the car overall?
IE: buzzing sounds to be heard through the speakers, etc...?
Awww, Mr "my fuel dumps are bigger than your MTOW" doesn't want to cut his harness. Pansy 
Shaeff: correct.
Shaeff: correct.
well when i got my new hanger it came with as well so i asked my buddy and he said it was for noise and inter frenaces for the pickup
suppost to be after though or this hanger cna go inot a diffent car
thats all i know and still not sure
suppost to be after though or this hanger cna go inot a diffent car
thats all i know and still not sure
Quick update/question...I'm almost complete with the rewire. I'm hopeful that other wiring/electrical n00bs like me will gravitate towards this thread in the future for the same Q's and tips I sought out. I chose to route the power wire differently than any guide I found on here, and when I'm finished I'll be sure to upload pics of a (IMO) easier way to do it.
I'm currently at this stage, wiring below the hatch floor:
And heres my really-electrically-uninformed question: when I'm finished, do I connect these connectors? These ones...
I ask because FT's pic above shows the blue wire being intercepted by the 12V custom wiring; do you still need to plug it in? And the other two plugs I presume are for the fuel level sender, and should be plugged in regardless?
I'm currently at this stage, wiring below the hatch floor:
And heres my really-electrically-uninformed question: when I'm finished, do I connect these connectors? These ones...
I ask because FT's pic above shows the blue wire being intercepted by the 12V custom wiring; do you still need to plug it in? And the other two plugs I presume are for the fuel level sender, and should be plugged in regardless?
Yes, plug it in. That plug brings the 9V power to the system. You cut the wire, and run the 9V to the relay. The other side comes back as 12V to the end going to the pump.
***EDIT*** I wish my car was the color of your metal back there!:icon_cry::icon_cry::icon_cry::icon_cry:
***EDIT*** I wish my car was the color of your metal back there!
:icon_cry::icon_cry::icon_cry::icon_cry:
More pictures please :bigthumb:jdub;1066732 said:I would get an AFPR...guys have installed a Walbro without one, but always seem to run into problems later.
If you just want to keep the pump at a constant 12V, you don't need a relay...just use the stock one. All you have to do is jump the resistor connector on the harness side to remove it from the circuit. Use wire at least the same gauge or larger than the harness.
Ok, so now I am interested. So JJ what are we to do with this little black box that is for ground loop isolation purposes I am guessing? I have one on my hanger and I spliced it into the ground... So far it has been working fine but who knows...
Update: finished the install, and the car won't start.
Here is a walkthrough of my process, with pics at the bottom of my final result.
I followed FT's/Shaeff's instructions, but routed the 12V power through the footwell, under the door sill and under the back seat.
I have power at the relay (it sparked, and gets hot). However, when I turn the key to ACC or ON, there is no sound from the pump, and the car turns over but doesn't start.
I should note: I cut off that 3rd blue "sound isolation" wire, as my stock hanger doesn't have it. I also originally tried to solder the wires on the hanger originally, but decided to redo them with crimps and everything feels solid.
Here are pictures of my setup. You can see where my wire is routed, and where my ground is in the hatch.
Here is a walkthrough of my process, with pics at the bottom of my final result.
I followed FT's/Shaeff's instructions, but routed the 12V power through the footwell, under the door sill and under the back seat.
I have power at the relay (it sparked, and gets hot). However, when I turn the key to ACC or ON, there is no sound from the pump, and the car turns over but doesn't start.
I should note: I cut off that 3rd blue "sound isolation" wire, as my stock hanger doesn't have it. I also originally tried to solder the wires on the hanger originally, but decided to redo them with crimps and everything feels solid.
Here are pictures of my setup. You can see where my wire is routed, and where my ground is in the hatch.
Since you used the same color wire on all four leads its impossible to try and tell what goes where.
List the destination of the wire compared to the pin on the relay. There should be 85,86,87,87a, etc.
List the destination of the wire compared to the pin on the relay. There should be 85,86,87,87a, etc.