Questions about Hot tanking motor.
- Thread starter Failure14
- Start date
Failure14;1510791 said:
bolt the rear timing cover on and tell them to leave it on while decking...
the reason why you must clean the block is because dirt in means dirt out....last thing you want is dirt finding its way into an oil channel from you or anybody fingering it all up....yes the engine needs to be stripped of parts as iron chips will fly everywhere and my make there way into places you really dont want them to!!!! iron when cut makes alot of fine chips (almost like a dust) and it will get everywhere...i know this because ive machined it hundreds of times!
IJ.;1510807 said:
yeah. i should have stated that. but that was where i was going with the rear timing cover. my bad.
You can call me at 330-541-1122 if you need a straight answer on anything since your local ohio shops don't want to help you.
Personally, I thermal clean my blocks. I also repalce all freeze plugs and oil shaft bearings as std procedure on all blocks. I made my own special toll to install the oil shaft bearings and I made my own specail cutter to size the bearing.
Thermal clean is a the block is baked in a giant oven at over 400 degrees. Then the block is tumbled in shot. The results are a far better than any tank washing.
Personally, I thermal clean my blocks. I also repalce all freeze plugs and oil shaft bearings as std procedure on all blocks. I made my own special toll to install the oil shaft bearings and I made my own specail cutter to size the bearing.
Thermal clean is a the block is baked in a giant oven at over 400 degrees. Then the block is tumbled in shot. The results are a far better than any tank washing.
suprarich;1516975 said:
Sounds like a great alternative, difference being most jobber shops don't have access or the skills required to do this job correctly Rich, you do.
IJ.;1506724 said:
Do you need to replace the oil pump d/s bearings even if it is within clearance specs? Is it just good insurance or are you a damn fool for not replacing them once you remove the shaft? I ask because the TSRM just says to check clearance and if it's excessive to replace them. :dunno:
IJ.;1517162 said:
Thanks IJ! The block will look as if it has been glass beaded after it is done, not only on the out side, but the inside too. You remove all the freeze plugs and the shot cleans all inside the water jackets also. Looks like a new casting when done.
Failure14;1517515 said:
call anytime you have a question. It is never a bother.
suprarx7nut;1517542 said:
I replace them and the freeze plugs every time no matter what. If the block is out and torn down to a bare block, there relly is no good reason not to put all new bits back in.
suprarx7nut;1517542 said:
All depends on the cleaning method used, if you do it the Rich way 100% need to be replaced if it's done the way I suggested and the solution doesn't eat the babbit material and the mic up ok no
If you have the replaced make sure it's by someone that has a clue and make sure they have the AUX shaft in their hands when they do the job and that they actually show you that it still fits in the new bearings before you take the block home.
Also make 100% sure that the Oil holes have been aligned correctly.
Ok tomorrow im dropping off my motor and this is what i know so far
Resurface head to RA below 15 (Tighten rear timing cover and tell them to leave it on)
Hot tank (Then replace Freeze plugs + Oil pump Bearings)
&& Make sure the AUX shaft still fits in the new bearings.
After thats all done and i bring it home this is what im going to have ready to put on and replace:
Clutch(Mine has about 50% left, gonna just replace it now) + ARP Flywheel bolts
Clevite Bottom bearing set (Question: Do i need to get ARP Rod bolts? Or is it just a good idea?)
Piston Rings (Question: MUST i get the toyota stock set? or is there another brand i can get thats a little cheaper?)
MHG
&& Other hoses that i see that will need replaced obviously.
Anything else ill need to check/replace?
Would it be a good idea to buy the
http://www.sipracingmailorder.com/servlet/the-338/Cometic-Full-Gasket-Set/Detail
for my rebuild?
HP Goal/Area: 300hp
Another question lol sorry: During the re-assemble part what are some sealants or whatever im gonna need?
Im having shane from nolden motorsports come and help on the re-assemble and i'd rather have everything needed
when he shows up.
Also, what about the crank? i thought i seen others having to have it honed or something?
Resurface head to RA below 15 (Tighten rear timing cover and tell them to leave it on)
Hot tank (Then replace Freeze plugs + Oil pump Bearings)
&& Make sure the AUX shaft still fits in the new bearings.
After thats all done and i bring it home this is what im going to have ready to put on and replace:
Clutch(Mine has about 50% left, gonna just replace it now) + ARP Flywheel bolts
Clevite Bottom bearing set (Question: Do i need to get ARP Rod bolts? Or is it just a good idea?)
Piston Rings (Question: MUST i get the toyota stock set? or is there another brand i can get thats a little cheaper?)
MHG
&& Other hoses that i see that will need replaced obviously.
Anything else ill need to check/replace?
Would it be a good idea to buy the
http://www.sipracingmailorder.com/servlet/the-338/Cometic-Full-Gasket-Set/Detail
for my rebuild?
HP Goal/Area: 300hp
Another question lol sorry: During the re-assemble part what are some sealants or whatever im gonna need?
Im having shane from nolden motorsports come and help on the re-assemble and i'd rather have everything needed
when he shows up.
Also, what about the crank? i thought i seen others having to have it honed or something?
Driftmotion has OEM pistons for $120. i was going to use that gasket set. i bought a $30 evergreen kit on ebay and was happy with it.
mecevans;1528970 said:
Ahh ok sweet, the toyota ones are like 240 so that will save me a little.
But i think ill stay away from the ebay kit thing, never heard of evergreen.
What about these http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-7m-gteringsetstandardsize.php ?
mecevans;1529180 said:
Not all the same thing, and if you search, people have had issues with the evergreen gaskets...
Ok ive basicly got my block and head completely stripped only thing thats left on it is my crank, crank pully, valves, and thats all i believe.
Im getting a hot-tank and resurface done, can i leave my valves,crank, and crank pully on?
Also after taking my head off it wasn't that bad at all, im not even sure if i had a BHG lol...
Heres my headgasket. OEM.
None of the rings are blown or anything...
Im getting a hot-tank and resurface done, can i leave my valves,crank, and crank pully on?
Also after taking my head off it wasn't that bad at all, im not even sure if i had a BHG lol...
Heres my headgasket. OEM.
None of the rings are blown or anything...
Take the crank pulley off and pull the crank or leave it in and have the machine shop take it out. If you do take it off when you remove it stand it on the flywheel end upright.
Ok so im just waiting to get flamed for this but idk what im doing wrong,
ive been at this for an hour trying to figure it out and i cant...
Headgasket question:
Just got my block and head back from the machine shop, Milled/Hot tanked.
Idk how much they took off but this is what i measured.
My Head: 139mm
My Block: 276mm
Stock head = 116mm deck to valve cover surface
Stock block = 198.5mm from deck to main bearing saddle
I even used:
http://charles.generationz.net/Supra/headgasketsize.html
And im getting like -99...?
I read the IJ Headgasket selection thread but it just doesn't make sense to me...
"If 2 and 3 are less that amount needs to be added to 1 to retain the stock compression ratio and squish/quench."
added to 1 to? i dont understand that? add to 1 to what to? huh?
I'd like to order my MHG tonight... =/
ive been at this for an hour trying to figure it out and i cant...
Headgasket question:
Just got my block and head back from the machine shop, Milled/Hot tanked.
Idk how much they took off but this is what i measured.
My Head: 139mm
My Block: 276mm
Stock head = 116mm deck to valve cover surface
Stock block = 198.5mm from deck to main bearing saddle
I even used:
http://charles.generationz.net/Supra/headgasketsize.html
And im getting like -99...?
I read the IJ Headgasket selection thread but it just doesn't make sense to me...
"If 2 and 3 are less that amount needs to be added to 1 to retain the stock compression ratio and squish/quench."
added to 1 to? i dont understand that? add to 1 to what to? huh?
I'd like to order my MHG tonight... =/