Question about mirror finish (head) & I'm lookin for a reputable machine shop in WA

[gaboonviper85]

what universe are you from LOL....they are one of the most respected mfg out there....

 

[slidebabyslide]

Im sorry,i was thinking about the dirt bikes they made years ago. The motorcycles.:sarcasm::naughty:

 

[87mgte]

At least 5 heat cycles (that means complete warm-up to cool down cycles) ...the sooner the better once that point is reached.

It's your call...once coolant hits the bearings, the damage is done. I would do an inspection at least, but if you chose not to do so, get some WalMart SuperTech oil (5W-30 if you can) and filters. Put it in, pull the EFI fuse and crank with a fully charged battery until you get pressure. Install fuse, and crank, idle for a few minutes, drain and replace. SyperTech stuff again, this time run for a 100 miles or so. Drain and replace with your favorite oil.

Well alright then, a retorque after 5 cycles should be no problem. Why SuperTech, any particular reason? I'll be using 10W-30 Royal Purple after the flushes. Pretty stoked to be able to say I'm the only one at my high school with purple oil.:biglaugh:

 

[gaboonviper85]

Well alright then, a retorque after 5 cycles should be no problem. Why SuperTech, any particular reason? I'll be using 10W-30 Royal Purple after the flushes. Pretty stoked to be able to say I'm the only one at my high school with purple oil.:biglaugh:

I would recomend a 0-30w royal purple....but thats just me....unless you plan on raceing and your engine temps are above average then light oil is usually your best bet for wear resistance..

 

[87mgte]

I would recomend a 0-30w royal purple....but thats just me....unless you plan on raceing and your engine temps are above average then light oil is usually your best bet for wear resistance..

Seriously? :dunno:Wow I had no idea... thanks for the info.

 

[gaboonviper85]

Seriously? :dunno:Wow I had no idea... thanks for the info.

Its not the thickness that counts its the flow of oil....the more oil you can get to those parts the better....oil tends to get thicker when its cold meaning that the oil flow will be restricted untill your engine meets its prime operation temps....don't listen to the old folks about running heavier oil cause they tend to think of science as blasphomes(sp).

People think thick oil is best because thats what they run in high performance cars like nascar but they don't think of the fact that those engine are running at damn near 400 deg so that heavy oil will thing oil alot..our cars run at just over 200 so we need that thinner oil for cold startups.

 

[GC89]

You might want to stop by the engine oil section as well, I personally wouldnt recomend royal purple. Theres deffinatly some good reading there, might make your reconsider.

 

[jdub]

Well alright then, a retorque after 5 cycles should be no problem. Why SuperTech, any particular reason? I'll be using 10W-30 Royal Purple after the flushes. Pretty stoked to be able to say I'm the only one at my high school with purple oil.:biglaugh:

SuperTech is cheap and it's a decent oil (and filter)...especially since you're going to dump it after a short period. Once you go to a syn oil at the 1500 mile point, use Wix or PureOne filters.

RP oil is good, but for the $$$ there's better. I use Castrol European Formula 0W-30 (German Castrol)...Grp IV PAO based oil with an excellent additive pack...it costs $6 a quart at AutoZone. It will go 8K easy between cahnges, just change the filter at 4K and add make-up oil.

Go over to the oil section here and do a little reading...Gaboon has it nailed concerning flow...read the link in my sig for the reason why he is correct

 

[87mgte]

SuperTech is cheap and it's a decent oil (and filter)...especially since you're going to dump it after a short period. Once you go to a syn oil at the 1500 mile point, use Wix or PureOne filters.

WalMart SuperTech oil (5W-30 if you can) and filters. Put it in, pull the EFI fuse and crank with a fully charged battery until you get pressure. Install fuse, and crank, idle for a few minutes, drain and replace. SyperTech stuff again, this time run for a 100 miles or so. Drain and replace with your favorite oil.

lol Am I missing somethin here? There's a pretty big gap between 100 miles and 1500.

I just read the Motor Oil 101, chapter one. I didn't know oil was this technical. Don't know if I have the attention span or time to go through 9 more chapters, though.

 

[jdub]

I was talking about flushing with conventional oil at the 100 mile point...sorry, should have been more clear in the 2nd post. The earliest I would switch to a syn oil is at 1500 miles on a motor that needs to be broke in. If the rings are already seated, you can switch right away after you flush.
Read this on break in:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993

There's a lot more to oils than one would suspect

 

[87mgte]

I was talking about flushing with conventional oil at the 100 mile point...sorry, should have been more clear in the 2nd post. The earliest I would switch to a syn oil is at 1500 miles on a motor that needs to be broke in. If the rings are already seated, you can switch right away after you flush.
Read this on break in:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993

There's a lot more to oils than one would suspect

Well I'm not doing a rebuild or anything (crosses fingers in hope of not receiving teh rod knockz), so I guess I can switch after the flushes. Thanks for all the help, jdub.

 

[jdub]

Yes you can...hope it works

 

[87mgte]

Yes you can...hope it works

Guess you can lock this now unless you think people could use it for reference later or something.

 

[figgie]

Shop is ISO 9001:2000

Oh and if you are into bikes we are the machine shop that makes the highend cannondale aluminum cranks....goes to show that cannondale is serious about quality

Dude seriously?

The Cannondale Hollogram bottom bracket or the Hollowgram Crank itself?

I have a system six with hologram Si Crank/Dura-Ace everywhere else. That shit rocks especially when sprinting up hill. Barelly ANY flex on those cranks. I like them a hell of a lot better than the campagnolo CF cranks.

Cannondale is still around?

They are doing exceptionally well in the bicycle world. I own two of theres

a 2001 R700 and a 2007 System Six Dura-Ace/Hollowgram Si crank combo. One sweet bike!