Project Super Slow
- Thread starter DustinS
- Start date
Grandavi;1884046 said:
I found a picture of what the two side by side, so I'll. Check after work.
And the drivers seat is way to heavy. My friend is giving/selling me a set of Bride Brix II's that just need recovered. So the seats should be in before the car hits the ground again
Some progress today. It's going slow as my friend wants to help with the pull and has been super busy. Looks like I may be trying to pull it Thursday before it gets too cold out.
Maybe that is why I don't have low beams?
Rubbing from the tire?
More rubbing. It's really bad.
Terrible Paint job :3d_frown:
Metal on trans drain plug.
Maybe that is why I don't have low beams?
Rubbing from the tire?
More rubbing. It's really bad.
Terrible Paint job :3d_frown:
Metal on trans drain plug.
thats not really too bad for the plug. ive worked at aamco for 5 years and if i saw that i wouldnt worry
[strike]I wouldn't be worried either, except the wires are corroded and I don't have low beams.[/strike]
The amount on the plug wasn't bad at all.
Going to throw my Mini Morimoto HID kit I made for my old car and see if it works.
Update tonight.
The amount on the plug wasn't bad at all.
Going to throw my Mini Morimoto HID kit I made for my old car and see if it works.
Update tonight.
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What goes here?
After it is on the stand:
I took the pan off and this is what it looked like(I didn't touch a thing)
#4 Piston is the one that the rod broke.
The bore looks good in the fourth cylinder. The piston looks like it has touched the head/valves just a bit. I still need check the head to see if this is true. Have some picture that are on my camera that i need to take off and post up.
Wow. THAT motor won't be used again. ever.
I have read that the W58 tranny is fine up to 300hp. I used to have that setup with the gte(260hp), and it was quick.
The car looks even better with the black and white photos- can't even tell that it's not one color.
I have read that the W58 tranny is fine up to 300hp. I used to have that setup with the gte(260hp), and it was quick.
The car looks even better with the black and white photos- can't even tell that it's not one color.
Had the same thing happen to my GTE, well at least it happened to the guy I bought the car from. Except my rod snapped at the wrist pin and then proceeded to wrap itself around the rod journal on the crank and continue to beat the hell out of the block as the previous owner kept driving it.
I actually had the block and crank inspected to see what damage was actually done. The block passed the magnaflux with flying colors, so I'm reusing it, and the crank was bent 0.030" around the second rod journal, but no cracks, and the bearing surfaced looked beautiful still. I replaced the crank, since the stress from trying to straighten it probably would have snapped it.
Here is the snapped rod that I had to pry off the journal
I actually had the block and crank inspected to see what damage was actually done. The block passed the magnaflux with flying colors, so I'm reusing it, and the crank was bent 0.030" around the second rod journal, but no cracks, and the bearing surfaced looked beautiful still. I replaced the crank, since the stress from trying to straighten it probably would have snapped it.
Here is the snapped rod that I had to pry off the journal
The block doesn't look bad at all. I need to take and have it looked at. I am still deciding if I want to try and rebuild the N/A(if it is rebuildable) or try and find a gte to swap in.
Just save some time and get a GTE and rebuilt it and your done
Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk 2
That's not necessarily the case. You would need the ECU and engine harness that goes with that motor and swap all that in. Plus the associated electronics like the boost gauge (meaning turbo dash) and relay, which would need to be put in for the car to run correctly, unless you go to a piggyback or standalone. Plus if you rebuild it after that. It would probably be easier to rebuild the NA.
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As it stands now, I have a lead on a gte that had a bhg. I would still need a harness, an ecu, and a turbo(Plus the rebuild).
My engine will need at least a crank, rod(s), piston. That is if the block checks out okay, as well as the head and valves at piston #4. All that plus the rebuild.
How much power could I expect out of a semi-built N/A?
My engine will need at least a crank, rod(s), piston. That is if the block checks out okay, as well as the head and valves at piston #4. All that plus the rebuild.
How much power could I expect out of a semi-built N/A?
You wouldnt gain much, because all you can really do is exhaust and intake. Unless you have extensive head work done with bigger valves, porting, and cams. Which will add up quick, so if you are looking to gain power a turbo is your best option.
That is what I expected.
If my DD would stop breaking, I would already have the gte.
There is a turbo ecu for sale locally, but it is for an automatic. Can I use an auto ecu? Or does it need to be from a manual car?
If my DD would stop breaking, I would already have the gte.
There is a turbo ecu for sale locally, but it is for an automatic. Can I use an auto ecu? Or does it need to be from a manual car?
Auto ecu is fine. You can swap a manual trans into and auto car without changing the ecu but not the other way around.
Since you are piecing this together try and make sure the Ecu, block and harness are roughly the same year.
It will prevent compatibility issues.
Since you are piecing this together try and make sure the Ecu, block and harness are roughly the same year.
It will prevent compatibility issues.
As the title states, updates have been super slow. Finally got in contact with the owner of the 7mgte I was interested in buying. Found out he is in Tennessee for college :/. So waiting for him to get back before I can get that going. Got some more pictures. Still not anything good.
#4 Dead Rod Hole
Clean Spot from the head
#4 Dead Rod Hole
Clean Spot from the head
Well, not many update as I have been putting most of my time in my DD. That hasn't been much, as it has been way to cold for me to do anything. BUT
I ordered MegaSquirt 3 with the harness today. Can't wait for it to come in. I figured it easier to get this and have tuning options later, as opposed to trying to hunt down a decent harness and ECU same year as the engine and such. Then later down the road, having to purchase another ECU and harness setup for my needs. Plus, it gives me something new to learn and expands my knowledge. Hoping to have the engine here soon and start the semi-stock rebuild.
Anyone have links to good stock pistons and rings? I would like to run stock pistons +1 oversize. I will have the machine shop order the bearings for me.
I think it should look like this:
Machined Head and block +1 overbore
Metal HG
New Full Engine Gasket Set(Link to good set?)
ARP Head Studs and Rod bolts
Stock rods
New Stock pistons/ring +1 oversize/ or JE, as I work for a JE dealer so I should get a discount.
Have machine shop order bearings to suit
Shimmed oil pump(upgraded oil?)
Upgraded oil line
I saw Titan motorsports sells ARP main studs on ebay, but not their website. Are those needed/recommended? (Edit: saw what they were in another thread, going to install these as well.)
Anything else I should look at/for?
What is everyone's though on ebay exhaust manifolds and FFIM? I plan on running a modified ct26. Would I be better off with the stock manifold? What about the Intake Manifold?
I also plan on running an ETS Intercooler set-up. We use them at work and they have been dyno proven to provide better charge temp cooling compared to CX Racing or even Forge racing intercoolers.
I ordered MegaSquirt 3 with the harness today. Can't wait for it to come in. I figured it easier to get this and have tuning options later, as opposed to trying to hunt down a decent harness and ECU same year as the engine and such. Then later down the road, having to purchase another ECU and harness setup for my needs. Plus, it gives me something new to learn and expands my knowledge. Hoping to have the engine here soon and start the semi-stock rebuild.
Anyone have links to good stock pistons and rings? I would like to run stock pistons +1 oversize. I will have the machine shop order the bearings for me.
I think it should look like this:
Machined Head and block +1 overbore
Metal HG
New Full Engine Gasket Set(Link to good set?)
ARP Head Studs and Rod bolts
Stock rods
New Stock pistons/ring +1 oversize/ or JE, as I work for a JE dealer so I should get a discount.
Have machine shop order bearings to suit
Shimmed oil pump(upgraded oil?)
Upgraded oil line
I saw Titan motorsports sells ARP main studs on ebay, but not their website. Are those needed/recommended? (Edit: saw what they were in another thread, going to install these as well.)
Anything else I should look at/for?
What is everyone's though on ebay exhaust manifolds and FFIM? I plan on running a modified ct26. Would I be better off with the stock manifold? What about the Intake Manifold?
I also plan on running an ETS Intercooler set-up. We use them at work and they have been dyno proven to provide better charge temp cooling compared to CX Racing or even Forge racing intercoolers.
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Well, I blew up my Daily Driver on the way to a Saab meet yesterday.
So unfortunately this thread will either be really slow or get posted in ALOT. As it stands right now, I want to get this built and running before I start on my 9-5.
Got some stuff done:
Megasquirt came in Saturday.
Got some of it assembled before my day started
Going to finish soldering it tomorrow after work.
Still need to order the MS3x board and wiring harness to finish the ECU.
So unfortunately this thread will either be really slow or get posted in ALOT. As it stands right now, I want to get this built and running before I start on my 9-5.
Got some stuff done:
Megasquirt came in Saturday.
Got some of it assembled before my day started
Going to finish soldering it tomorrow after work.
Still need to order the MS3x board and wiring harness to finish the ECU.