Project "so I have this widebody..."
- Thread starter Bleakvoid
- Start date
Wow, definitely half-assed work by whoever did the body work. Maybe you should look into some non-Corvette tail lights. Have fun with the fiberglass, it looks like you have a bunch of work to do.
VR Wheels may have something that'll work for you. I remember seeing some Work (?) 17x 14 (?) with a crazy negative offset. Were absolutely gorgeous, and really weren't that expensive, all things considered. I think they were around $2500, you might look into them.
Aside from that, I like the overall look of the car, REALLY reminds of a tubbed NHRA style drag car, like Ace mentioned. Stick some slicks back there, they'll look right at home.
Just a thought, I dunno if I'm the first one to think about this, but has anyone else thought this thing looks like the Abflug Mk4, especially from the side?
Aside from that, I like the overall look of the car, REALLY reminds of a tubbed NHRA style drag car, like Ace mentioned. Stick some slicks back there, they'll look right at home.
Just a thought, I dunno if I'm the first one to think about this, but has anyone else thought this thing looks like the Abflug Mk4, especially from the side?
honestabe;1642094 said:
Already ahead of you. Going to be running an LED bar for tail lights. The C5 covers are just retarded, and I can get rid of the mess in the trunk...and probably a gang of wiring, too.
By my account, the body work is just time consuming. I've got the crack in the rear bumper, tail lights to fill, the crack on the front fender, and I need to repair the side skirt seams where they meet the front/rear fenders, plus a couple spots that aren't blended well or have a paint sag. And then I have to touch up the paint, too. I've been told to expect fiberglass work every five years or so as the body flexes and vibrates, which makes sense when your fenders, skirts, quarter panels and rear bumper are all one seamless piece. Oh well...at least I don't have to worry about rust. Speaking of...there's NO rust, anywhere on the car. Undercarriage, floorboards, targa underneath the headliner, even the exhaust piping is pretty clean.
On the other hand, I need to fabricate some wheelwells, a dash bezel (mine is only held in by the screw behind the shifter), and probably a custom trim panel for the trunk area. I also looked around, and I think I've settled on my speaker setup; 2 6.5s in the doors, a slim 15, and 2 full range 8s in the back with the sub, plus replacements for the stock tweeters. Should give me amazing clarity and frequency response, especially if I add a pair of 6x9s later.
Small update:
Just ordered my alarm and door latch solenoid; alarm is the exact same DEI I have in my DD, so I'll have three remotes...one for each vehicle, and one spare that can operate both.
As for the door latches...well, you know those huge wings that run across my doors? They also cover up the outside handle. So, I'll be hooking up an output from the alarm on a 30-second latch timer to a relay...and documenting it for all of you out there that might give shaved handles a try.
Smaller update: Scored a Greddy Profec-B spec1 on CL. Picking it up this week after I retorque my head; I'll go MHG soon, but a stocker with great compression will do for now.
Just ordered my alarm and door latch solenoid; alarm is the exact same DEI I have in my DD, so I'll have three remotes...one for each vehicle, and one spare that can operate both.
As for the door latches...well, you know those huge wings that run across my doors? They also cover up the outside handle. So, I'll be hooking up an output from the alarm on a 30-second latch timer to a relay...and documenting it for all of you out there that might give shaved handles a try.
Smaller update: Scored a Greddy Profec-B spec1 on CL. Picking it up this week after I retorque my head; I'll go MHG soon, but a stocker with great compression will do for now.
Actually from the side it looks pretty sick! Man,this is the 2nd MKIII in Norcal i've seen with Vette lights. WTF do the douchebags that do this crap always gotta stick homo vette lights in there, WTF- seriously man. The guy that did that should be kicked in the balls real hard
I'm going to be be honest with you...
The idea is right. Not all A70's can pull off the widebody look... but this is certainly unique and screams potential in my books.
You've absolutely got some work to do, but with some determination and a little bit of money... I'm subscribed to see where this ends up.
Good luck,
Jeff
The idea is right. Not all A70's can pull off the widebody look... but this is certainly unique and screams potential in my books.
You've absolutely got some work to do, but with some determination and a little bit of money... I'm subscribed to see where this ends up.
Good luck,
Jeff
So today, I took apart my intake and popped the valve covers off to retorque my head in preparation for more boost. Pics or it didn't happen!
Before work:
Accordian hose, AFM, intake cone, and post-intercooler intake piping removed.
3000 pipe, PCV pipe, pipe in front of 3000 gone, throttle cables and bracket tossed aside...
And valve covers off, spark plug valley cover removed. Btw, those 14mm cover bolts can be a pain...I had a 9/16" allen socket laying around, which works wonders, especially if you've been screwing around with a double-nutted 14mm bolt for the last hour.
And then I needed to go do things. So, on with the blankets to keep it cozy tonight, and I'll check the torque tomorrow. It looks like I might be in for a bad day tomorrow...the head bolts are supposed to have a 10mm allen head, correct? Mine are more like a...6 or something. Is there something I'm missing?
Before work:
Accordian hose, AFM, intake cone, and post-intercooler intake piping removed.
3000 pipe, PCV pipe, pipe in front of 3000 gone, throttle cables and bracket tossed aside...
And valve covers off, spark plug valley cover removed. Btw, those 14mm cover bolts can be a pain...I had a 9/16" allen socket laying around, which works wonders, especially if you've been screwing around with a double-nutted 14mm bolt for the last hour.
And then I needed to go do things. So, on with the blankets to keep it cozy tonight, and I'll check the torque tomorrow. It looks like I might be in for a bad day tomorrow...the head bolts are supposed to have a 10mm allen head, correct? Mine are more like a...6 or something. Is there something I'm missing?
Walked out to start working again, and found a lonely, abandoned door solenoid on my doorstep! Well, I guess USPS figured I need it sooner than amazon told me it would get here. Two days early, in fact. So...time to get funky.
I took another look at my head bolts just now. They are definitely not the stock bolts; there's a 5mm allen head in the middle of a stud, looks like. Do I have aftermarket hardware, or am I really just missing something entirely?
Edit: after looking closer and clearing the oil away from them...I noticed the ARP markings around the stud. Fucking sweet! Go to torque down the head, find out I at least have ARP studs. Now how do I figure out if the headgasket is metal?
I took another look at my head bolts just now. They are definitely not the stock bolts; there's a 5mm allen head in the middle of a stud, looks like. Do I have aftermarket hardware, or am I really just missing something entirely?
Edit: after looking closer and clearing the oil away from them...I noticed the ARP markings around the stud. Fucking sweet! Go to torque down the head, find out I at least have ARP studs. Now how do I figure out if the headgasket is metal?
look at the junction of the head and block (if you can) and see if it looks like layers of crushed metal. If it just looks like squashed fabric, its not an MLS, but if someone put head studs on it i'm sure they went metal headgasket as well
I was also thinking that a metal gasket would have some resistance value if tested with an ohmeter, and the composite probably wouldn't conduct electricity. But I was also really tired last night.
How's the new shop looking, Ace?
How's the new shop looking, Ace?
Well, yesterday went pretty well. Looked down deeper, saw my MHG, and called that a day after checking the head torque; 76 ft-lbs. Whee, everything's gravy with my combustion chamber! So I put it all back together, and started looking at my door solenoid.
At least, that's how it came. Little bugger's heavy, too, like 2 or 3 pounds. Anyways, on with the show:
I attached the pull cable to the top of the pull lever where the inside handle rod pops into place, leaving it there. More distance from fulcrum means more leverage, so I figured it should go there. And then:
Routed the pull cable. I used zip ties to keep it from wandering; I think I may have pulled it a little to taut, causing it to pull the lever, because my inside handle is kinda pulled up a bit. And then...
Mounted the solenoid itself. The best part about this mounting location is that it puts the weight semi-close to the hinge, and it tucks away (very!) cleanly into the molded channel in the interior door panel without interfering with the window; the only caveat was playing with the window regulator bolts above where it's mounted to be able to reach the back side of the panel to slide the bolts in from that side. The Autoloc solenoids use a self-grounding bracket, so sand away some paint, bolt it in, and clear coat for rust proofing. Then the steel pull cable was threaded and crimped so that when a high-amperage 12v current is applied to this wire:
That solenoid pops back, pulling the lever, and releasing the door latch. I tested it with a spare car battery, and it works great; satisfying 'pop' sound, and no spring loaded popper to make that bodywork fly out and hit something. When I get my alarm in the next couple days, I'll hook up a relay to that positive wire so that a 30-second latched 200ma output on the alarm can handle door popping duties. That'll give me the exterior entry appearance of having handles by not having it pop open all the time, and instead simply unlatching the door for 30 seconds. Plenty of time to hop in, start the car, and look for music before it's ready to latch again.
But, I think I routed some vacuum hoses incorrectly when I put it all back together. My BOV is stuck open, so I've basically got a massive HKS SSQV boost leak at the moment; turbo spools, but I lose pressure the instant I get off the throttle, and it won't even make full boost. Kinda stuck at ~5 psi. So...any help? It's currently going to the medium, straight pipe off the ISC pipe in front of the 3000 pipe. Which, looking at it, goes down to the head. So...I *think* that's supposed to go someplace else, but I'm not sure.
At least, that's how it came. Little bugger's heavy, too, like 2 or 3 pounds. Anyways, on with the show:
I attached the pull cable to the top of the pull lever where the inside handle rod pops into place, leaving it there. More distance from fulcrum means more leverage, so I figured it should go there. And then:
Routed the pull cable. I used zip ties to keep it from wandering; I think I may have pulled it a little to taut, causing it to pull the lever, because my inside handle is kinda pulled up a bit. And then...
Mounted the solenoid itself. The best part about this mounting location is that it puts the weight semi-close to the hinge, and it tucks away (very!) cleanly into the molded channel in the interior door panel without interfering with the window; the only caveat was playing with the window regulator bolts above where it's mounted to be able to reach the back side of the panel to slide the bolts in from that side. The Autoloc solenoids use a self-grounding bracket, so sand away some paint, bolt it in, and clear coat for rust proofing. Then the steel pull cable was threaded and crimped so that when a high-amperage 12v current is applied to this wire:
That solenoid pops back, pulling the lever, and releasing the door latch. I tested it with a spare car battery, and it works great; satisfying 'pop' sound, and no spring loaded popper to make that bodywork fly out and hit something. When I get my alarm in the next couple days, I'll hook up a relay to that positive wire so that a 30-second latched 200ma output on the alarm can handle door popping duties. That'll give me the exterior entry appearance of having handles by not having it pop open all the time, and instead simply unlatching the door for 30 seconds. Plenty of time to hop in, start the car, and look for music before it's ready to latch again.
But, I think I routed some vacuum hoses incorrectly when I put it all back together. My BOV is stuck open, so I've basically got a massive HKS SSQV boost leak at the moment; turbo spools, but I lose pressure the instant I get off the throttle, and it won't even make full boost. Kinda stuck at ~5 psi. So...any help? It's currently going to the medium, straight pipe off the ISC pipe in front of the 3000 pipe. Which, looking at it, goes down to the head. So...I *think* that's supposed to go someplace else, but I'm not sure.
woo hoo jeffs old supra!
and frum what i remember that hks bov is a fake.sumthing screwy sumtimes happens with fakes
unless the person you bought if off from changed the bov.then i dont know
and frum what i remember that hks bov is a fake.sumthing screwy sumtimes happens with fakes
unless the person you bought if off from changed the bov.then i dont know
Idk. Sure holds boost and lets it go like an HKS, though.
Also, found my boost leak...my 3000 pipe wasn't clamped down to the throttle body. Back to 7.5 psi, ready to gun for more! Especially after I picked up my GReddy Profec-B yesterday...now for a boost guage and wideband controller/display.
Also, found my boost leak...my 3000 pipe wasn't clamped down to the throttle body. Back to 7.5 psi, ready to gun for more! Especially after I picked up my GReddy Profec-B yesterday...now for a boost guage and wideband controller/display.
::dead horse:: Caution: Previously discussed issues ahead ::dead horse::
About to go install my alarm, and ran across a set of rims that don't cost an arm and a leg...too bad they're American Racing, designed by Shelby for Mustangs. But...only thing I've been able to find in a 17x11 et-63, *and* a 17x9.5 et0. With a 265 up front and 295 out back, that leaves me 1/4" of clearance inside all four fenders, so I'll probably pick them up. Everybody's talking 2500 to 5000 for a set with even halfway decent fitment, but I can get these for less than $1500, shipped, and can probably get a deal with tires for $1700. They look OK, I guess...I'll probably powdercoat them a bronze/gold color with white trim to go with the blue/white paint scheme I'm thinking of. Goddamnit, I need to settle on a set of wheels :icon_mad:
She's starting to come together, and I love her even more every time I drive her. Amazing :love::love::love:
About to go install my alarm, and ran across a set of rims that don't cost an arm and a leg...too bad they're American Racing, designed by Shelby for Mustangs. But...only thing I've been able to find in a 17x11 et-63, *and* a 17x9.5 et0. With a 265 up front and 295 out back, that leaves me 1/4" of clearance inside all four fenders, so I'll probably pick them up. Everybody's talking 2500 to 5000 for a set with even halfway decent fitment, but I can get these for less than $1500, shipped, and can probably get a deal with tires for $1700. They look OK, I guess...I'll probably powdercoat them a bronze/gold color with white trim to go with the blue/white paint scheme I'm thinking of. Goddamnit, I need to settle on a set of wheels :icon_mad:
She's starting to come together, and I love her even more every time I drive her. Amazing :love::love::love:
If you get some rims in 18 inch size, i have a set of four toyo r888 proxes size 335, 30, r18 that i would let go for the same price i picked the up for which would $280 plus shipping. lemme know if your interested. On another nore, car seems like its coming along well.
First off, I'd like to thank everyone around here for the constructive comments. It's frustrating to take stock of everything that has to be done to this car, but it helps knowing that I'm not the only person that wants to see it finished.
Second, I waxed it today. Oh. Your. God. The paint on this thing is as deep as the body is wide. I'll try to get a better pic soon, but check the metal flake! And the reflection!
In the first pic, those white spots are imperfections in the paint...tried my best to claybar and polish them out, but I'm kinda stuck with 'em. Jesus, this car is gorgeous...
Second, I waxed it today. Oh. Your. God. The paint on this thing is as deep as the body is wide. I'll try to get a better pic soon, but check the metal flake! And the reflection!
In the first pic, those white spots are imperfections in the paint...tried my best to claybar and polish them out, but I'm kinda stuck with 'em. Jesus, this car is gorgeous...
So, I think I'm kinda boned, or at least stuck in a major way.
Trying to wire in my alarm, and I cannot, for the life of me, get to all the harnesses I need to in the drivers kick panel. I tried taking my clutch pedal out, but I can't get to the last nut on the far side next to the fender on the firewall. That seems like the only way to get enough access to be able to strip and crimp everything...not even going to try soldering connections back there. Is there a better way to do it? Cause...I'm still daily driving the Supra. And I'm past the point of no return now; I already wired it into the ignition harness, so I need to complete this before I have a drivable car again. Any ideas?
Trying to wire in my alarm, and I cannot, for the life of me, get to all the harnesses I need to in the drivers kick panel. I tried taking my clutch pedal out, but I can't get to the last nut on the far side next to the fender on the firewall. That seems like the only way to get enough access to be able to strip and crimp everything...not even going to try soldering connections back there. Is there a better way to do it? Cause...I'm still daily driving the Supra. And I'm past the point of no return now; I already wired it into the ignition harness, so I need to complete this before I have a drivable car again. Any ideas?