Silver MK3;2052347 said:
Rarely happens but yea, it does happen. Goals are set to be met and if your goals are realistic then you shouldn't have a problem meeting your goals. Good job supraguy@aol you won the shortest build time ever on SM
Project: Git'R driving...a VERY short build
- Thread starter supraguy@aol
- Start date
Rarely happens but yea, it does happen. Goals are set to be met and if your goals are realistic then you shouldn't have a problem meeting your goals. Good job supraguy@aol you won the shortest build time ever on SM
LOL.
Aint done yet, but I'm working on it today.
One additional task: Install 3" catalytic converter.
My girlfriend was giving me all kinds of hell for my '88 long term project, because it takes up the garage.
Then I buy a 2nd 'project', and she's like WTH?- Finish your other car first.
WELL...Now that she's driven it, she's on me to finish it up so she can drive it more, lol. Problem is, she doesn't like that the exhaust smells a bit harsh(emissions exempt now)
So I promised her that I'd add a cat back in, where the test pipe is. Already ordered it, so it should arrive around Monday. I'll use the test pipe's two flanges to make it bolt-in.
Aint done yet, but I'm working on it today.
One additional task: Install 3" catalytic converter.
My girlfriend was giving me all kinds of hell for my '88 long term project, because it takes up the garage.
Then I buy a 2nd 'project', and she's like WTH?- Finish your other car first.
WELL...Now that she's driven it, she's on me to finish it up so she can drive it more, lol. Problem is, she doesn't like that the exhaust smells a bit harsh(emissions exempt now)
So I promised her that I'd add a cat back in, where the test pipe is. Already ordered it, so it should arrive around Monday. I'll use the test pipe's two flanges to make it bolt-in.
Very true!
So far today, I've shimmed the cooler bypass, shimmed(2 washers) the wastegate, Replaced the front swaybar with ST,
Replaced the oil cooler lines and oil filter, and adjusted the dashpot. Not much more to do. If I get the rear swaybar done, I'll call it a good day.
So far today, I've shimmed the cooler bypass, shimmed(2 washers) the wastegate, Replaced the front swaybar with ST,
Replaced the oil cooler lines and oil filter, and adjusted the dashpot. Not much more to do. If I get the rear swaybar done, I'll call it a good day.
Depends on what you're trying to accomplish.
For example, this build was just to reassemble the motor, and cobble together just a few items to get everything working.
My other build, is a 4+ year project, to rebuild and improve every aspect of the car. If you have an hour, I invite you to read through it.
You can click on the link in the description under this text.
For example, this build was just to reassemble the motor, and cobble together just a few items to get everything working.
My other build, is a 4+ year project, to rebuild and improve every aspect of the car. If you have an hour, I invite you to read through it.
You can click on the link in the description under this text.
ST swaybar, and new oil cooler lines.
Then, I started playing with my stereo unit, in order to fix the bad power knob. It was collapsed, and wouldn't spring out, so it would constantly power on/ power off.
So, I opened it up. Surprisingly, the front faceplate just pops off, almost like a removable faceplate.
Um...yeah. Didn't see any repairable items inside, so I reassembled it all. Instead, in a MacGuyver- moment of inspiration, I fashioned a spring from a
ballpoint pen, and wrapped it around the rotary shaft, and reinstalled the knob(sorry, forgot to take a pic). Now the knob springs back as it should.
As for whether or not the thing works, is still a mystery. It started raining cats&dogs, and now I'm headed to dinner. I'll have to install and test it in a few days.
Then, I started playing with my stereo unit, in order to fix the bad power knob. It was collapsed, and wouldn't spring out, so it would constantly power on/ power off.
So, I opened it up. Surprisingly, the front faceplate just pops off, almost like a removable faceplate.
Um...yeah. Didn't see any repairable items inside, so I reassembled it all. Instead, in a MacGuyver- moment of inspiration, I fashioned a spring from a
ballpoint pen, and wrapped it around the rotary shaft, and reinstalled the knob(sorry, forgot to take a pic). Now the knob springs back as it should.
As for whether or not the thing works, is still a mystery. It started raining cats&dogs, and now I'm headed to dinner. I'll have to install and test it in a few days.
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supraguy@aol;2052286 said:
Just let me know if you happen to find them, I want something a little softer than energy for ride and OEM is disco'ed now. Might see if Ronnie can make me a softer Poly set or give molding my own a shot.
PM when you have exact dates for Seattle, I actually live a couple hours away but my brother lives there so I make it over to visit quite a bit. That would be very cool, I'll buy you a beer or whatever your drink of choice is for the trouble
Yeah, I looked through my parts boxes, and it looks like I gave away those bushings.
But if you want new oem type bushings, might as well get new upper A-arms. That way, you have new upper ball joints/ boots as well.
Dorman, Part numbers 520-487, 520-488 - roughly $57 each, shipped.
Can't beat that price.
OR, just buy the bushings, 2 per arm@ $12.62 each, =$50.48 for full set of fronts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-...?fits=Model:Supra&hash=item19f2221ff2&vxp=mtr
But if you want new oem type bushings, might as well get new upper A-arms. That way, you have new upper ball joints/ boots as well.
Dorman, Part numbers 520-487, 520-488 - roughly $57 each, shipped.
Can't beat that price.
OR, just buy the bushings, 2 per arm@ $12.62 each, =$50.48 for full set of fronts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-...?fits=Model:Supra&hash=item19f2221ff2&vxp=mtr
Update:
Well, not too much to post. Just chasing down the last few gremlins.
Gotta figure out why my driver's side door ajar light doesn't work; it was before.
Still have to swap out the dome light; one side has a bad switch.
Waiting on my 'Automotive Touchup' paint kit to arrive, so that I can redo the bumpers. Went to a local place for an estimate- $750!
I'm not afraid to spend some money, but I was thinking like $250. Anyway, I'll try it myself, and post the results.
Not sure yet if I've solved the ABS rear sensor issue, as well as the code 34 I was getting. About to drive up to the dealership for a hood striker, so we'll see which warning lights come on.
Anyway, here's a fully tally(so far) of everything spent on this project:
Purchase: $2500
Springs: $240
Hoses: $115
Belts: $25
Gaskets: $30
Shift knob: $20
Chemicals: $55
Oil/filter: $55
Battery: $100
Fuel pump: $45
Used parts: $50
Fan shroud: $90
Battery strap: $20
Blower resistor: $26
OEM stereo: $95
Front speakers: $30
Antenna: $45
Header wrap: $40
Toyo tires: $627
Alignment: $95
Bumper paint: $50
Coolant, R134: $27
Fan: $90
MBC: $10
Cat converter: $50
Total: $4530
Items sold off:
FAL fans: -$220
7MGTE oil pump: -$80
Net total: $4230
I think I got my money's worth out of it.
I may have a few dollars more to spend on it here and there, but I'm close to having it just how I want, for a simple daily.
Well, not too much to post. Just chasing down the last few gremlins.
Gotta figure out why my driver's side door ajar light doesn't work; it was before.
Still have to swap out the dome light; one side has a bad switch.
Waiting on my 'Automotive Touchup' paint kit to arrive, so that I can redo the bumpers. Went to a local place for an estimate- $750!
I'm not afraid to spend some money, but I was thinking like $250. Anyway, I'll try it myself, and post the results.
Not sure yet if I've solved the ABS rear sensor issue, as well as the code 34 I was getting. About to drive up to the dealership for a hood striker, so we'll see which warning lights come on.
Anyway, here's a fully tally(so far) of everything spent on this project:
Purchase: $2500
Springs: $240
Hoses: $115
Belts: $25
Gaskets: $30
Shift knob: $20
Chemicals: $55
Oil/filter: $55
Battery: $100
Fuel pump: $45
Used parts: $50
Fan shroud: $90
Battery strap: $20
Blower resistor: $26
OEM stereo: $95
Front speakers: $30
Antenna: $45
Header wrap: $40
Toyo tires: $627
Alignment: $95
Bumper paint: $50
Coolant, R134: $27
Fan: $90
MBC: $10
Cat converter: $50
Total: $4530
Items sold off:
FAL fans: -$220
7MGTE oil pump: -$80
Net total: $4230
I think I got my money's worth out of it.
I may have a few dollars more to spend on it here and there, but I'm close to having it just how I want, for a simple daily.
Three days ago, I discovered that one of my low beams was burned out. Seeing as I had a set of H4 conversion housings from my other car just sitting on a shelf,
I decided to swap over for a little bit more light output. They're called Neolite, and are glass housings, somewhat similar to Hella's.
Pulled the driver's side 6054 out, only to discover that the lamp wasn't bad, the electrical socket was. One wire had snapped off of the
terminal in the socket, and it looked one of the other two wires had been spliced together at some point in its past. Went to Autozone and bought a replacement socket and wired it in.
Here's a pic of before and after, halogen Sylvania on the left, Neolite H4 on the right.
Also, I bought a cheapo mbc off Ebay, just so I could get 2 or 3psi more boost. I found that even on the lightest spring setting, I would spike and hit fuel cut.
After taking it back out, I kinda did a blow test through the two aluminum ends(no spring), and felt that the nipples themselves were too restrictive. Drilled them both out with the next larger
size bit, and cut 2 coils off the spring, so that it could be assembled to an even softer setting. Originally, the spring was so long, that simply putting the two halves together put significant compression on it.
Well that solved the issue. Whereas I was getting about 6- 6.5psi on the gauge before, I now go just above 8psi, probably around 9. Makes the car just quick enough to reveal the next fix that I need to do:
Yup, new clutch.
I decided to swap over for a little bit more light output. They're called Neolite, and are glass housings, somewhat similar to Hella's.
Pulled the driver's side 6054 out, only to discover that the lamp wasn't bad, the electrical socket was. One wire had snapped off of the
terminal in the socket, and it looked one of the other two wires had been spliced together at some point in its past. Went to Autozone and bought a replacement socket and wired it in.
Here's a pic of before and after, halogen Sylvania on the left, Neolite H4 on the right.
Also, I bought a cheapo mbc off Ebay, just so I could get 2 or 3psi more boost. I found that even on the lightest spring setting, I would spike and hit fuel cut.
After taking it back out, I kinda did a blow test through the two aluminum ends(no spring), and felt that the nipples themselves were too restrictive. Drilled them both out with the next larger
size bit, and cut 2 coils off the spring, so that it could be assembled to an even softer setting. Originally, the spring was so long, that simply putting the two halves together put significant compression on it.
Well that solved the issue. Whereas I was getting about 6- 6.5psi on the gauge before, I now go just above 8psi, probably around 9. Makes the car just quick enough to reveal the next fix that I need to do:
Yup, new clutch.
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Nothing big going on here, just still trying to polish off the last of the repair tasks.
Tried painting my header panel today, came out ok, but a little dark. Hopefully it will lighten up slightly as it cures fully.
Tired paint:
Masked off:
After a couple rounds of base coat:
And a couple rounds of clear coat:
Can't wet sand or buff till tomorrow, and of course I still have to do both bumpers, but it's looking promising.
Tried painting my header panel today, came out ok, but a little dark. Hopefully it will lighten up slightly as it cures fully.
Tired paint:
Masked off:
After a couple rounds of base coat:
And a couple rounds of clear coat:
Can't wet sand or buff till tomorrow, and of course I still have to do both bumpers, but it's looking promising.
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Let it sit in the sun for a few days to cure before starting the cutting and buffing process if you haven't already.
Oops- I already did that. Instructions say to wait a day for rubbing compound, and 30 days before any type of wax.
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what type of base/clear did you use? Looks pretty good so I think your fine.
UV helps the curing process on a urethane clear and the harder it is the better it wetsands/cuts/polishes. You can chase buffing marks if the clear is too soft but it doesn't seem like you had any issues.
UV helps the curing process on a urethane clear and the harder it is the better it wetsands/cuts/polishes. You can chase buffing marks if the clear is too soft but it doesn't seem like you had any issues.
