Project Daily Drifter (56k... probably not)

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
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Beach Park, IL
So I should hopefully be getting a set of standard size ACL bearings (main/rod/thrust) sometime this week and swap those out. I'm sending out my oil pan to be cleaned by a buddy of mine who runs a business and has a hookup at the machine shop, so it should be relatively cheap :)

Also got the front timing covers, crank pulling, and timing belt off (with radiator in the car) in about 30 minutes in preparation to change the bearings and prime the oil pump haha :)
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
0
36
Beach Park, IL
So on Monday (8/9/2010) I picked up a bottle of Clevite Bearing Guard (assembly lube) from a local speed shop, and dropped off my oil pan at a buddy's place. He's going to drop it off at the machine shop and have it cleaned for me. $15 bucks for them to clean the pan!

Just waiting on one of my buds to find the bearings and then I'll go pick them up from him.

I can't wait to have this done!


On another note, I'm not sure if I want to start buying the rest of my oil cooler setup now or later... I'll be using a Longs/Tru Cool oil cooler (recommended to me by Zumtizzle... great prices btw), the one I'll be buying is 8" x 11" x 1.5" with 1/2 NPT fittings

From there I'll mount everything and figure out the amount of hose I'll need. I'll be using Earl's Pro-Lite 350 braided nylon hose, temperature rated to 300*F, max pressure rated to 350psi, and the great part.... it weighs HALF of what braided stainless does!

Will need to use Earl's Ano-Tuff fittings with the hose. I'm figuring the rest of the oil cooler setup is going to cost somewhere in the ballpark of $300...

These cars are fat enough, no need to add more weight than there needs to be. I plan on using this braided nylon hose for my oil and fuel systems :)
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
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36
Beach Park, IL
As it sits right now I am still waiting on my bearings and crank scraper from Driftmotion. I'm really hoping to have everything done by the start of school.... Next Tuesday
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
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36
Beach Park, IL
Update!

My bearings are on their way and should be here later today!

The holdup was the crank scraper that I ordered from DriftMotion. After contacting Aaron, I found that the scraper is NLA, and was issued a refund for that. No big deal.

Yesterday before the refund, UPS delivery status (via e-tracking) said "billing info received". This morning when I woke up at 9, the status was "In transit" and "out for delivery". Meaning it seems like it got from Cali to Illinois overnight.

Either way, DriftMotion FTW!

I can install the bearings tomorrow and hopefully get my subframe back together :)
 
I spent about $400 on my cooler setup, got a deal on the cooler itself though. "getfast1" on ebay sells fittings that are from the manufacturer that makes russell fittings, just without the russell branding. They're very high quality and a good bit cheaper than Russells :) http://myworld.ebay.com/getfast1/ If you've got the money I'd definitely install it now, it's so much easier than messing around under the car and around your engine mount.
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
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36
Beach Park, IL
Holy cow. Okay so I checked on Summit for theoretical prices on my oil cooler set up (to finish it anyways), and for AN to NPT fittings, various Earl's Ano-Tuff fittings (straight and 90*), Earl's ProLite 350 braided nylon hose, Accusump/mounting brackets/EPC, the total came out to be around $750. That's a lot of money :(

I already have a Canton remote filter head, Canton block adapter, and Mocal thermostat which cost about $300 ish

So about $1000 total for the oil system. At least I'll know it's quality, right?

:(

---------- Post added at 04:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:00 PM ----------

At this point, I can order everything sans the accusump and associated parts, and just buy a -10AN female to -10AN female swivel coupler and -10AN plug and cap off the third nipple on the tee fitting (where I would plumb in the accusump) and hook up the oil cooler system that way for the time being until I can afford the accusump. I would at least have 90% of the oil system done, with the other 10% being the accusump. The big reason I want the accusump is to be able to pressurize the system prior to cranking so I know 100% that I have oil pressure
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
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36
Beach Park, IL
89nasupra;1607307 said:
Looking good Chris. Keep up the good work!!

Thanks Todd!

I plan on swapping out my engine bearings today. I'm just hoping my oil pan is ready to be picked up. It should be, it's been over a week...
 

oldsking

New Member
Mar 19, 2009
789
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Chapel Hill, NC
Like rtrdpenguin mentioned, using getfast1 is a great solution to saving some money for the fittings as they are very good quality. I have their fittings throughout my fuel system and motor and have no sprung a leak at all:) heck it out because they combine shipping on ALL their auctions and that equals to............NOTHING! The prices on almost all fittings is 3-8 bucks with no shipping
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
0
36
Beach Park, IL
Alright time for me to go under the car. I'll try to swap the main bearings as well while I'm under there, but who knows how well that'll go haha :)
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
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36
Beach Park, IL
well the main bearings look fine. I can't, however, get main cap 4 off. The thrust bearings aren't giving me much play to get the cap free. I may rotate the crank a tiny bit so I can tap the side of the cap with my plastic mallet to loosen it up.

The rod bearings... are shot. Heat scoring and metal on metal contact. They weren't spun though. The rod journals on the crank look fine, which I am VERY happy about.

I'll go about replacing all bearings I can get to when I go back out to the garage.
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
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Beach Park, IL
I checked out getfast1 and the prices are good. I just like brand name parts, not spin-offs of names that are used by the brand name companies... personal preference.

I found that a local speed shop called SpeedQuest (specializes in Honda/Acura), can get me the Mr Gasket -10AN to 1/2NPT fittings for $4.25 each! And 10 feet of Earl's Pro-Lite 350 -10AN hose for $85!

That beat's Summit's price on the hose by 4 dollars + shipping from Summit, and it beats the price on their fittings by at least 3 dollars each.

About a week ago I had bought two Earl's adapters from Touge Factory... came out to be about 28 after tax. For TWO fittings. I can get 6 of the Mr Gasket brand for $25.50 + 8% tax :)

I'll be purchasing my AN to NPT adapters and the hose now, purchasing the Accusump, brackets, and EPC within the next 2 weeks, and then purchasing the AN to hose fittings once I get the Accusump and oil cooler installed where I want them.

I figure if I install the oil cooler behind the driver side foglight, I'll install an e-fan on the backside of the cooler and wire it in with the auxiliary radiator fan, and wire those to a switch in the cabin to have those going whenever the engine is running.

Question on the e-fan.... should I install a pusher or a puller?
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
0
36
Beach Park, IL
Anddd another FTW!

Earl's Ano-Tuff Straight -10AN female to -10AN hose
From SpeedQuest: $11.99
From Summit: $12.95 http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=at800110erl&dds=1

Earl's Ano-Tuff 90* -10AN female to -10AN hose
From SpeedQuest: $26.75
From Summit: $30.95 http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=at809110erl&dds=1

Earl's Ano-Tuff 45* -10AN female to -10AN hose
From SpeedQuest: $29.08
From Summit: $44.95 http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=at804510erl&dds=1

That last one... HOLY CRAP. Save me 15 bucks per fitting!
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
0
36
Beach Park, IL
Moy;1608110 said:
I figure if I install the oil cooler behind the driver side foglight, I'll install an e-fan on the backside of the cooler and wire it in with the auxiliary radiator fan, and wire those to a switch in the cabin to have those going whenever the engine is running.

Question on the e-fan.... should I install a pusher or a puller?

Anyone? :)
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
0
36
Beach Park, IL
Alright so I have my Canton block adapter and Canton remote oil filter mount. Got the Mocal oil thermostat. Got 6 -10AN to 1/2NPT adapters, and 10 feet of the braided nylon -10AN hose.

Just got my oil cooler in the mail. I can take pictures of it but I'd need to get it off of the car first. Not a problem as I only have it zip-tied in place.

It measures 8x11x1.5" with 1/2NPT ports. I currently have it mounted below the driver side fog light, as that's the only place that it fits without taking the space that something else needs to occupy. If I remove the fog light and buy/install the undertray piece, there will at least be fresh cool airflow through the fins.

I will DEFINITELY need to mount an e-fan on the backside of the cooler, and rig a switch in the cabin. For that, I may do the SOGI mod of wiring the auxiliary fan to a switch in cabin, but wire the e-fan into the aux fan circuit (if the wiring can handle the added amperage that the e-fan pulls). If not, then I'll just go with option 1
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
2,432
0
36
Beach Park, IL
SupraOfDoom;1612065 said:
If moy was rich he'd probably have 90% body parts from me :p.

Haha, if I was rich I'd have my car done, have an AE86 with 1G-GTE swap as my drift car, and have a MK4 TT 6spd as a daily driver

But I'm not rich... haha
 

SupraOfDoom

Starcraft II ^^;;
Mar 30, 2005
3,342
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Milwaukee, WI
www.cardomain.com
Moy;1612124 said:
Haha, if I was rich I'd have my car done, have an AE86 with 1G-GTE swap as my drift car, and have a MK4 TT 6spd as a daily driver

But I'm not rich... haha

I wanted a 1G-GTE AE86 before you even had a MK3 :). Some of my oldest favorited videos on youtube heh.