Post Pics of MKIII's with MKIV TT Rims
- Thread starter blk92suprat
- Start date
The rears are perfect without spacers... unless you like the look of your tires/wheels sticking out where they shouldn't be.
The fronts could use a spacer but the outer edge of the wheel sits right about where the original wheel sat.
Running the MkIV TT rims in the front you MAY have to adjust your turn stops to prevent a slight scrape on the inner edge of the rim at full lock. This has been shown to occur on some cars but not all.
The fronts could use a spacer but the outer edge of the wheel sits right about where the original wheel sat.
Running the MkIV TT rims in the front you MAY have to adjust your turn stops to prevent a slight scrape on the inner edge of the rim at full lock. This has been shown to occur on some cars but not all.
figure I would post, even though I dont have a great quality picture and dont even own the wheels anymore (some asshole stole them....and I didnt have wheel locks on them....:3d_frown: maybe im the asshole?)
I liked them alot, chrome 98tt wheels... but I have something else in store that should be interesting..... soon as I get my gremlins kicked out of the engine bay.
I liked them alot, chrome 98tt wheels... but I have something else in store that should be interesting..... soon as I get my gremlins kicked out of the engine bay.
MarkIII4Me;1253689 said:
315's are just too wide for a 9.5" rim, to do any any good. You aren't getting a significant gain in your contact patch, that the 40mm increase in width (over a 275) would lead you to believe. Ideally, a 10.5-11.5" rim works much better. As far as I know, there aren't any 295 series tires made in 17".:nono:
I was running 255/40 on the front, 275/40 on the rear of MKIV TT rims. No spacers. I only had to adjust the steering stops a tiny bit to prevent rim scrape. Lowered on Eibach Pro Kit and Koni Yellows.
No spacers.
No spacers.
91T breezen';1254818 said:
You'd think so, but I was amazed at how well the 315's fit these 9.5" rims. The tire actually sits pretty flush on the rim. There is next to no overhang of rubber at all on these things. I'll have to take a picture later today and post it. Now mind you, it is way to wide for our cars without a wide kit, rolled fenders, and rear spacers.
91T breezen';1254818 said:
Really? That is surprising since they make 315's for 17"s. The ones on now are Michelin Pilot MX somethings. I'm sure they were pricey. I'm having a hard time finding 17-285's. There are several options, but the only good ones are crazy expensive. Are there any decent tires in this size for around $150 ea?
shaeff;1254873 said:
Yeah, with stock suspension would you need to adjust steering stops? And how would you go about doing this?
jugodegolf;1254683 said:
How much does a single 9.5 Rim from toyota cost? I'm thinking about getting a set more my car. Keep the stock sleek sexy look.
EthanMKIII;1255457 said:
I cracked one of mine last year and I was qouted a price around 400-500 if I remember exactly. I had 315 on my tt wheels and they bulged out a little on the sides. They rub on the shock when the car is lifted. My car was lowered on eibach springs and tokico shocks. They rubbed on big bumps and when the car was loaded down in the back. I loved the look it had from the rear though.
87M-GTE;1255120 said:
I run a standard set of MKIV TT rims and I get rim scrape on the inside at full lock. I'd like to know how to go about adjusting this as well.
Sorry, I don't have any pics of the rims on the car.
Adjusting the stops is a pretty easy thing once you stick your head under the car and take a look. It has been a number of years since I did mine.
Note... this is also a VERY good time to replace the wheel stop caps (a small plastic cap that keeps the metal from hitting metal when turning full lock - these are very inexpensive and should still be available from your friendly parts department).
Here's what I did.
1. Jack up the front of the car - both sides.
2. Turn the wheels full lock to the right
3. Look at the right wheel and see what hits - or is close to hitting. That is your wheel stop.
4. Turn wheels straight again.
5. Use the correct wrench to back the stops out a bit.
6. Turn wheels full lock both directions and make sure they don't hit.
Once you know where the stops are you can make the adjustments without jacking up the car. This is good for those times when you need to make just a tiny adjustment more to stop the scraping.
To replace the stop cap (assuming you have the new ones ready to go).
1. While the car is jacked up locate the old stop cap - probably has a hole worn through it from years of rubbing - and pry it off.
2. Snap the new cap on
3. Have a beer.
Like I said you will figure it out pretty quickly once you stick your head under the car.
Note... this is also a VERY good time to replace the wheel stop caps (a small plastic cap that keeps the metal from hitting metal when turning full lock - these are very inexpensive and should still be available from your friendly parts department).
Here's what I did.
1. Jack up the front of the car - both sides.
2. Turn the wheels full lock to the right
3. Look at the right wheel and see what hits - or is close to hitting. That is your wheel stop.
4. Turn wheels straight again.
5. Use the correct wrench to back the stops out a bit.
6. Turn wheels full lock both directions and make sure they don't hit.
Once you know where the stops are you can make the adjustments without jacking up the car. This is good for those times when you need to make just a tiny adjustment more to stop the scraping.
To replace the stop cap (assuming you have the new ones ready to go).
1. While the car is jacked up locate the old stop cap - probably has a hole worn through it from years of rubbing - and pry it off.
2. Snap the new cap on
3. Have a beer.
Like I said you will figure it out pretty quickly once you stick your head under the car.
91T breezen';1254818 said:
The only ones I am aware of are:
Kumho Ecsta V710 in 295/40/17
Kumho Ecsta XS in 295/35/17
Hoosier A6 in 295/35/17
Hoosier R6 in 295/35/17
Of them, the Ecsta XS is the only street tire. All the others are treadless or near treadless R compound.
Now to be fair, I run Victoracer V700's on the MKIV on the street (275/40/17 & 245/45/17) and they are R compound and nearly treadless (5/32" new), but what I consider streetable a lot of people don't.
RiyadYar;1254828 said:
Those are actually mkiv n/a rims, but they look good none the less. :icon_bigg
Some do, some don't from what I hear. I never had stock suspension with the MKIV TT's.87M-GTE;1255120 said:
Frankenstien;1255772 said:
Pretty easy. Follow Keith's directions.
And in addition to the plastic caps, put a dab of grease on there, too.
KeithH;1256238 said:
Thanks. I've had my head under my car a fair bit, guess I never noticed them. Are they on every MKIII? Mine is a TTR. I'll have my car on a hoist tomorrow night so I can adjust them then if my car has them.