Performance Upgrade Question

[suprastroker88]

Ok so I have this 1986.5 NA-T that I just got ahold of. My goal is to have it pushing 12 second 1/4 miles. I know I have a ways to go before I get it there but that's my goal. Right now, the only performance modifications I have to the car is an Apexi 3in exhaust with a 4 in tip, balanced and blueprinted fuel injectors (i think ill go to rc 550's though), and a built suspension.

I'm having the engine rebuilt very soon and this is what I'm doing so far...
Clean and deck head
Valve Job
Deck the block
.20 bore
Greddy 2mm Headgasket
All other gaskets
New piston rings
Rod bearings
Main bearings
Thrust washers
ARP head studs
Greddy timing belt
NGK iridium IX spark plugs
NGK plug wires
New water pump
Silicone hose kit
Oil pump shaft bearings

What else should I do to be on my way? All tips are appreciated.

 

[figgie]

btw that list. None of them are "mods". They are regular maintanance items.

3 inch exhaust? What tuebo?


iridium plugs? Reallly? copper. Don't bother with anything else.

I don't see fuel control/tuning.

I don't see a bigger fuel pump.

lots of information missing.

 

[suprastroker88]

btw that list. None of them are "mods". They are regular maintanance items.

3 inch exhaust? What tuebo?


iridium plugs? Reallly? copper. Don't bother with anything else.

I don't see fuel control/tuning.

I don't see a bigger fuel pump.

lots of information missing.

Im just starting with a basic almost stock supra and doing a rebuild on it first. My question is once i do this rebuild, what mods do i go for first?

 

[hammerhead]

For a 12 sec pass, my guess is you'll need forged pistons and rods, and metal HG. I'm setting up my block with a set of JE pistons, eagle rods and an HKS 1.2mm metal HG. All from SIP Racing (member of this site)

Don't take my word for it though, wait till the pros tell you that.

 

[Zumtizzle]

.20 bore is unneeded.

avoid a hot tank like the plague. Have it cleaned and you won't need to have the Aux Bearings changed.

 

[kingsupra]

Im just starting with a basic almost stock supra and doing a rebuild on it first. My question is once i do this rebuild, what mods do i go for first?

after a rebuild, if your planning on a bigger turbo; fuel is a must. you already said you wanted the 550's. a walbro or equevlent 255lph pump. an afpr is a good idea as well with fuel managment (HKS AFR, APEXi SAFC, MAFT PRO...) so your your not running rich with the 550's. maybe a wideband to watch mixture levels.

how must boost are you planning as well. it would be a nice idea for boost controller

also did you need to bore? its normally unnessisary unless your cylinders are messed up. its better to keep as much metal between the cylinders as possible

 

[webbs7mgte]

agreed with kingsupra its always good to have the most meat between cylinder i laugh when people bore their blocks to death and ahve paper thin cylinder walls tis stupid but i guess do what you do

 

[Rennat]

he hasnt bored anything... hes just thinking. his engine is still in his car! lol

and boring is fine on the 7m, so dont act like its the worst thing possible.

hammerhead - why does he need forged pistons and rods? as long as the OEM ones are installed and prepped correctly they've been proven to hold over 500+ HP (the latest was what 700hp???)


zum - hot tanking is fine, its not the best option, but not every place has the equipment some of the other SM members have access too... and replacing the aux shaft bearings isnt very hard. Freeze Plugs are pretty easy too... lol. not to mention there only $8 from Napa Auto Parts...

figgie - iridiums are fine, copper is prefered because its a 'tougher' plug and it has a much larger tip, i personally run coppers in my turbo, and in my non turbo....

 

[xarewhyayen]

Ok so I have this 1986.5 NA-T that I just got ahold of. My goal is to have it pushing 12 second 1/4 miles. I know I have a ways to go before I get it there but that's my goal. Right now, the only performance modifications I have to the car is an Apexi 3in exhaust with a 4 in tip, balanced and blueprinted fuel injectors (i think ill go to rc 550's though), and a built suspension.

I'm having the engine rebuilt very soon and this is what I'm doing so far...
Clean and deck head
Valve Job
Deck the block
.20 bore
Greddy 2mm Headgasket
All other gaskets
New piston rings
Rod bearings
Main bearings
Thrust washers
ARP head studs
Greddy timing belt
NGK iridium IX spark plugs
NGK plug wires
New water pump
Silicone hose kit
Oil pump shaft bearings

What else should I do to be on my way? All tips are appreciated.

don't forget a new oil pump. might be a good idea to get the rods shot peened and resized and use arp rod bolts while youre in there. Its an NA block right? so no oil squirters? if it has oil squirters it might be a good idea to get new ones from toyota, i remember reading a thread previously about the springs in them getting weak over time. Maybe micropolish the crank and think about lightening it/knife edging. Have the valve lash set on the head too. thats about all i can think of right now.

 

[Rennat]

if the OEM oil pump is in specs, and its not filled with metal shavings, why change it?


OEM rods are forged, and shot peened... but if he goes ARP he needs to have them resized.

Knife edging a crank is pretty expensive, and on an OEM type rebuild with just OEM rods and pistons, wheres the point? if he was shooting for a high HP 7m, then sure, but hes MUCH better off spending his money in much needed areas.

valve job yes, but would inspect first, the pervious owner may have gotten a valve job.

 

[xarewhyayen]

if the OEM oil pump is in specs, and its not filled with metal shavings, why change it?


OEM rods are forged, and shot peened... but if he goes ARP he needs to have them resized.

Knife edging a crank is pretty expensive, and on an OEM type rebuild with just OEM rods and pistons, wheres the point? if he was shooting for a high HP 7m, then sure, but hes MUCH better off spending his money in much needed areas.

valve job yes, but would inspect first, the pervious owner may have gotten a valve job.

i say new oem oil pump because they're cheap insurance. The car is 22 years old. Why not replace it while hes in there? the pump isnt expensive. shot peening the rods is a good idea to do again to make sure theyre staying strong. he is shooting for 12's so its gonna be a moderately high powered car, im just thinking of things he should do WHILE THE ENGINE IS APART. Not saying its required, but shooting ideas of things to do while other things are being worked. Any time you lighten the rotating assembly the engine will be more responsive.

 

[IJ.]

LMAO NEVER seen a used block with bores both round and true enough that I'd slap rings in it and call it good for a performance build......

20 thou bore is a 10 thou cut on each side it's going to make almost NO DIFFERENCE to the integrity of the block but might give the round/true holes you need...... :nono:

No wonder so many of the builds here are total failures seriously guys..

 

[Zumtizzle]

At least replace the oil pump Relief Valve Spring. (Remember his car does have a NA pump)

So no Machine shops have a large washing machine with hot water and soap, in your area? Strange.

Shot Peaning a set of rods that have already been peaned doesn't sound like something i'd do, or am.

Add an Oil Cooler to that list.

 

[hammerhead]

hammerhead - why does he need forged pistons and rods? as long as the OEM ones are installed and prepped correctly they've been proven to hold over 500+ HP (the latest was what 700hp???)

Oh, sorry if I'm wrong on that one. It's just that back when I mentioned my setup on here, some guys were telling me now all i need is forged pistons and rods, and i'd be good for 30psi..

and sorry if i go off topic, but how much horsepower are we talking bout to run 12's, and aproximately how much boost you need to make that power? I know that last question is very vague, depending on tuning and compression ratios, so maybe no bother with that one.

 

[Quin]

Last question also depends almost entirely on the turbo... Takes a lot less on a T88 for example than a CT26. HP depends on the driver a lot. Some 800hp guys run 12s, some 500hp guys are in the low 11s/10s.

 

[suprastroker88]

Thanks for all the tips and opinions. Like I said, Im just looking for ideas right now. I havent cracked open the engine yet so I still have time to plan. Rennet is the one rebuilding my engine and he has more knowledge than i do so Im just trying to help him out and get more ideas from other people.

When I am ready to upgrade the turbo, what would be an ideal turbo to go with that will spool quick and give me the power that Im looking for? I have no idea how to choose a turbo. I thought about maybe getting the driftmotion t-66 or 60-1 turbo. They seem pretty good, but like i said. i know nothing about turbos

 

[IJ.]

doomed then

 

[Poodles]

Why are we bothering again when all our suggestions get shot down?

 

[suprastroker88]

Why are we bothering again when all our suggestions get shot down?

no suggestions are being shut down. im writing them all down actually

 

[suprastroker88]

Ok. So far, here is my mods list.........
Walbro Fuel Pump
Aeromotive AFPR
550cc Siemens Injectors
Cooleeze Turbo Inlet Pipe
Cooleeze Top Radiator System
Cooleeze Test Pipe
HKS BOV
Spearco Intercooler
Fluidyne Radiator
BIC Performance 3in Divorced Downpipe
SP 61GT Turbo
Flex-A-Lite Dual Fan
Greddy Profec B Spec 2 Boost Controller
AEM UEGO Wideband Controller
Apexi AFC NEO


Anything I miss?