over boring questions
- Thread starter jester1341
- Start date
Nick: Yep very puffy on the dyno and was pushing the dipstick out with the stock PCV so as a temp "fix" I ran -10 hoses and fittings.
jdub;1184689 said:
"Bad advice.
Like already stated..bore the least you can"
hmm. Im not sure I made myself understood. The EGR is good for holding emissions down but in search for power its negative. To lead hot exhausts, drained of oxygen back in the engine is not something you want to do if you are searching for power (however i forgot that you are in the USA). And the EGR is not only negative in that aspect. It also heat up the back of the head when hot gases are traveling from cylinder 6 to the EGR chamber and on. That´s why i recomended to plug the hole from cylinder 6. For you who didnt understand when I talked about drilling in the top i can explain further. When you put your headgasqet on the head you can see its designed with a cooling passage behind cylinder nr6. But there is no hole there in the head. If you drill this area up the coolingwater will circulate much better in the back of the head. This is much more important for you US guys since youre planning to keep your EGR system and have a hot EGR cooling chamber right on the backside that will heat upp the head even more, and the water here has already traveld far from pump.. warming up on the way. Its a common modification .. can you explain more why you think this is a bad advice?
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jdub;1184689 said:
"this post should be deleted"
Do you have anything to back up these comments with? Or is this your contribution to the forum? Fire of a negative post with no substans. Wy I should delete my post, or why these modds wouldn´t do squat to cool down the head.
Since you are new, you need to know the EGR subject has been beat to death. Read this thread (all of it):
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80267
Cooling the head:
- Behind the EGR cooler there's a water jacket in the head.
- The reason it's hotter around #6 is it's the furthest away from the water pump.
- That mod you're talking about (drilling the hole) doesn't do squat...an urban legend.
The EGR:
- Keeps cylinder temps down...that's how it reduces NoX
- Lower cylinder temps, lower chance of detonation...cooler combustion process.
- The EGR functions between above idle and ~4500 RPM...there is no effect on total HP as a result. At WOT the EGR is not working
- The EGR is designed to displace air in the combustion chamber in it's operating range. Remove the exhaust gas, and you have more air = lean
- The USDM TCCS fuel and timing maps are tuned with the EGR in place. You add more air in the EGR operating range and you risk part throttle detonation under load.
I know what I'm talking about...maybe you should get a little more knowledgeable before you spout off.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80267
Cooling the head:
- Behind the EGR cooler there's a water jacket in the head.
- The reason it's hotter around #6 is it's the furthest away from the water pump.
- That mod you're talking about (drilling the hole) doesn't do squat...an urban legend.
The EGR:
- Keeps cylinder temps down...that's how it reduces NoX
- Lower cylinder temps, lower chance of detonation...cooler combustion process.
- The EGR functions between above idle and ~4500 RPM...there is no effect on total HP as a result. At WOT the EGR is not working
- The EGR is designed to displace air in the combustion chamber in it's operating range. Remove the exhaust gas, and you have more air = lean
- The USDM TCCS fuel and timing maps are tuned with the EGR in place. You add more air in the EGR operating range and you risk part throttle detonation under load.
I know what I'm talking about...maybe you should get a little more knowledgeable before you spout off.
Say I change my fuel to E85.
jdub, would that change anything since the E85 is less prone to detonation and burns at a lower temp?
And thanx to IJ for sharing that info!!! Bought my first mkIII in 1999 and has never heard of that before.
suprafredde
jdub, would that change anything since the E85 is less prone to detonation and burns at a lower temp?
And thanx to IJ for sharing that info!!! Bought my first mkIII in 1999 and has never heard of that before.
suprafredde
Thanks for a good answer.
"The USDM TCCS fuel and timing maps are tuned with the EGR in place. You add more air in the EGR operating range and you risk part throttle detonation under load."
I ran my before on 1bar original ecu with no problems. And if you try to go higher you remap with piggyback anyway. Ofcoure its good to bare the problem in mind.
"Lower cylinder temps, lower chance of detonation...cooler combustion process."
Bad method to lower cylinder temp. Put a brick under the gaspedal that will also help to keep cyl temp down. And however you turn it around, its not good for the power to have exhaust gases in the intake air.
And it ads heat to the head (mayby not much) and the underhood temp. Put your hand on the EGR system.. do you think it adds heat or coolness?
All put together if you have the opporunity to take the system out, my opinion is you have more to gain taking it out then keeping it. Im am sure you know the car well but we draw diffrent conclusions. I still think all logic is against keeping the system if your looking for power. But i didnt know you need it for inspection in U.S.
Im not spouting of. Just not used to stupid remarks like "delete this post" but this is internet so...
"The USDM TCCS fuel and timing maps are tuned with the EGR in place. You add more air in the EGR operating range and you risk part throttle detonation under load."
I ran my before on 1bar original ecu with no problems. And if you try to go higher you remap with piggyback anyway. Ofcoure its good to bare the problem in mind.
"Lower cylinder temps, lower chance of detonation...cooler combustion process."
Bad method to lower cylinder temp. Put a brick under the gaspedal that will also help to keep cyl temp down. And however you turn it around, its not good for the power to have exhaust gases in the intake air.
And it ads heat to the head (mayby not much) and the underhood temp. Put your hand on the EGR system.. do you think it adds heat or coolness?
All put together if you have the opporunity to take the system out, my opinion is you have more to gain taking it out then keeping it. Im am sure you know the car well but we draw diffrent conclusions. I still think all logic is against keeping the system if your looking for power. But i didnt know you need it for inspection in U.S.
Im not spouting of. Just not used to stupid remarks like "delete this post" but this is internet so...
First of all, I didn't make the "delete this post" comment...but, you did for mine in post #24 above.
Power is relative...like I said, the EGR does not function above ~4500 RPM, so there is no effect on total HP the engine produces.
The EGR was designed to do two things:
1) To lower NoX emissions...it does this by lowering combustion temps.
2) To raise the threshold where detonation occurs so timing advance can maximized...it's "free" octane.
Everyone seems to focus on the emissions function and ignore the anti-knock function of the EGR. Your conclusion is a result of looking at it this way. You run a USDM TCCS and you are asking for detonation under part throttle/high load conditions. I'm not pulling this out of my proverbial arse:
164 pages on nothing but how the TCCS works on this car
A piggyback will help with the fuel side, but not timing. The solution is to run a JDM ECU (you have to disable speed cut) or go with a standalone EMS.
Power is relative...like I said, the EGR does not function above ~4500 RPM, so there is no effect on total HP the engine produces.
The EGR was designed to do two things:
1) To lower NoX emissions...it does this by lowering combustion temps.
2) To raise the threshold where detonation occurs so timing advance can maximized...it's "free" octane.
Everyone seems to focus on the emissions function and ignore the anti-knock function of the EGR. Your conclusion is a result of looking at it this way. You run a USDM TCCS and you are asking for detonation under part throttle/high load conditions. I'm not pulling this out of my proverbial arse:
164 pages on nothing but how the TCCS works on this car
A piggyback will help with the fuel side, but not timing. The solution is to run a JDM ECU (you have to disable speed cut) or go with a standalone EMS.
jetjock;1190606 said:
LOL...yeah you have
I actually would love to see the "good stuff"...and, learn how to properly use a scope!
suprafredde;1189687 said:
Why on earth would you want that? Don't you want more power? E85, if the engine and ECU are made for it, can have a more aggressive tune than pump gas. It is a lot of prepartion. And it damages the enviorment by using more fuel to produce than gasoline.
Ian:
On a side note, and relatively related topic. What are your thoughts on this claim?
http://forums3.13x.com/showpost.php?p=2142220&postcount=24
I just stumbled across it. Figured I'd ask you since I know you've used both.
Edit: and searching the web using this as the query: Toyota Genuine Seal Packing Black, Three Bond 1207B, a large number of Toyota related manuals popped up, all with this phrase: "Toyota Genuine Seal Packing Black, or 3bond 1207b or equivalent."
On a side note, and relatively related topic. What are your thoughts on this claim?
http://forums3.13x.com/showpost.php?p=2142220&postcount=24
I just stumbled across it. Figured I'd ask you since I know you've used both.
Edit: and searching the web using this as the query: Toyota Genuine Seal Packing Black, Three Bond 1207B, a large number of Toyota related manuals popped up, all with this phrase: "Toyota Genuine Seal Packing Black, or 3bond 1207b or equivalent."
Nick M;1190625 said:
Well, a friend with a 580 crank hp mkIII compared the two and E85 gave more hp without touching the timing.
Nothing was changed other than fuel, fp, and a/f.
Who says that I cant bump the stock base timing...
Preparation, not sure what you mean other than having fuel components that can handel E85.
Enviroment, well lets not go there...
suprafredde
shaeff;1191015 said:Ian:
On a side note, and relatively related topic. What are your thoughts on this claim?
http://forums3.13x.com/showpost.php?p=2142220&postcount=24
I just stumbled across it. Figured I'd ask you since I know you've used both.
Edit: and searching the web using this as the query: Toyota Genuine Seal Packing Black, Three Bond 1207B, a large number of Toyota related manuals popped up, all with this phrase: "Toyota Genuine Seal Packing Black, or 3bond 1207b or equivalent."
Not even close to the same
