one piece driveshaft.

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89supra7mgte

New Member
Sep 20, 2009
797
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colorado
Well i noticed a vibration when taking off in first gear, felt like the engine wanted to fall out. Racked the car in the air and started checking stuff out, found that the po did not tighten the lower nuts on the solid mounts, and found the carrier bearing/coupler was shot(on driveshaft).

Anyways tightened the mounts got some quotes on the bearing for 285!!!!! The guy at the toyota dealership (only place that had the bearing listed) Recommended switching to the one piece from horsepowerfreaks.com.

I looked into them found they are only 100 more than the bearing itself, easier to maintain, given i have any problems, and handle more power.

My question to everyone is:

Are any of you running a one piece? And from who?
Is this one piece possible to have made from a driveline shop? Given i take them my old two piece and measurements?

Thanks in advance for the advice.
 
8

89supra7mgte

New Member
Sep 20, 2009
797
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colorado
I am not so sure i want to just replace the bearing, i would like to know that when i start to add more power to this car that my drivetrain will handle it. the suprasport one piece says it can handle 600hp. and the oe two piece has a tendency to separate the rear section internally. Being that there are two different size tubes. Rather fix once and be good than to have to replace another bearing.
 
F

FloTex

Crankin since the 1900s
Aug 13, 2008
47
0
0
Tallahassee, Florida
89supra7mgte;1449559 said:
Well i noticed a vibration when taking off in first gear, felt like the engine wanted to fall out. Racked the car in the air and started checking stuff out, found that the po did not tighten the lower nuts on the solid mounts, and found the carrier bearing/coupler was shot(on driveshaft).

Anyways tightened the mounts got some quotes on the bearing for 285!!!!! The guy at the toyota dealership (only place that had the bearing listed) Recommended switching to the one piece from horsepowerfreaks.com.

I looked into them found they are only 100 more than the bearing itself, easier to maintain, given i have any problems, and handle more power.

My question to everyone is:

Are any of you running a one piece? And from who?
Is this one piece possible to have made from a driveline shop? Given i take them my old two piece and measurements?

Thanks in advance for the advice.
Click to expand...

I just had one made at a local driveline shop (in Orlando, Florida) for $285. They make them for lots of performance cars and confirmed a solid single shaft is a good way to go, especially for higher horsepower (I'm somewhere around 450 RWHP right now). They would have repaired my old one for about the same price. The internals were torqued and my center carrier bearing was shot.
It fit great with plenty of clearance.
They would have done an aluminum shaft for an extra $100.
I didn't weigh the two, but the single shaft is a lot lighter than the two piece (which has the extra yokes and center carrier bearing).
It's not back on the road yet- hopefully this weekend.
 
SideWinderGX

SideWinderGX

Member
Aug 8, 2007
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35
Syracuse, New York, United States
Search my old posts for the thread I posted in...I think I ordered it from Shaftmasters. Can't seem to find the damn receipt though, I'm trying to keep records of everything...

First time I put it in I didn't torque the DS/diff bolts, I just tightened them with a wrench to the 'that's tight enough and similar to the other bolts' torque level. Which proved to be stupid, because it vibrated on the highway for a mile or so until it straightened itself out.

After that it ran smooth as butter all the way up to 100 something. The only vibration now is from my tires.

You might get some vibration in the winter if you DD it, I do when I get muddy snow stuck on it and it doesn't want to work its way off. Hasn't failed yet, haven't heard of any failures, no carrier bearings to worry about, brand new universals, noticeably better acceleration...I'm happy with it.
 
8

89supra7mgte

New Member
Sep 20, 2009
797
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colorado
Yeah i was reading that the steel lines will have some vibration but very minimal. I think i am gonna have one made save some money verse buying one. did they reuse your old rear flange and front yoke? in comparison what diameter is the shaft?

Any info i should give them as far as diameter for the shaft or will they be able to determine that form looking at the old 2 piece?
 
Flateric

Flateric

New Member
Mar 26, 2008
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I'm running the one piece shaftmaster, aluminium version.

Love it, no complaints of any kind.

Install was a breeze and as mentioned there is plenty of clearance, it's not even the slightest issue at all.

I prefer it to my old two piece in everyway.
 
8

89supra7mgte

New Member
Sep 20, 2009
797
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colorado
I just looked at there site, they look good but still not sure if i want to spend that kind of money. I got a quote from the driveline place we use at work they quoted me 200-300 if they are unable to use my old flange and yoke. 90-110 if its simple enough for them to install a tube with my old parts, and balance it. We do alot of business through them so i get it cheap, but good quality.

I also seen the shaftmaster lines are 3" what are the stock measurements?
 
BOOSTEDSUPRA

BOOSTEDSUPRA

THE DRIVELINE GUY
Jan 4, 2007
308
0
0
turlock, calif
powertrain products are not too bad. i prefer to use spicer or neapco when i do 2pc conversions to a single shaft. but again, i order from powertrain when need be.

and the length of our shafts are not terribly long, if you were not pushing a shit ton of hp you could stick with the original diameter. but even a 3"x.083 wall driveline will be cosiderably lighter than stock. and even more so on the aluminum ones i build.

one thing i dont do is re-use any of the old parts. not that there inferrior or anything, i just convert all my toyota conversions to a "1310" style "snap tight" u joint. for 2 reasons

1) 1310 are much more readily available and more well known to the automotive community. (at least in my experience)
2) i have done a load test on the 2 joints. the spicer snap tight help up to 30 pounds more force before the trunnions failed. in extream cases i have put together a 1350 series aluminum shaft for a friend, but her was close to 1k hp. a little over kill, but oh well. :biglaugh:
 
8

89supra7mgte

New Member
Sep 20, 2009
797
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colorado
my fabricator had told me to try and stay away from servicable u joints as to having a hole in them weakens them.

he did re use my yoke and rear flange. the diameter is slighlt smaller than 3" but has a little bit more side wall to it. for 100 i am not complaining not to mention lifetime warranty on the whole assembly.
 
BOOSTEDSUPRA

BOOSTEDSUPRA

THE DRIVELINE GUY
Jan 4, 2007
308
0
0
turlock, calif
89supra7mgte;1450147 said:
my fabricator had told me to try and stay away from servicable u joints as to having a hole in them weakens them.

he did re use my yoke and rear flange. the diameter is slighlt smaller than 3" but has a little bit more side wall to it. for 100 i am not complaining not to mention lifetime warranty on the whole assembly.
Click to expand...


yea, that is a great price. the tubing sounds fine, i build 3"x.083 drivelines daily for local race cars around here and small 4x4's.

the ujoints your talking about at least for spicer are called "snaptight" they are indeed stronger, but for regular street driving, its more the "non servicable" part that peeps like about them. but, when getting into higher horsepower applications, or in rockcrawling rigs, the "greasable" joints are indeed a weak point.

a question you have to ask yourself when having this decision placed in front of you. what would you rather break, an output shaft/diffyoke.. or a 10 dollar u joint? i have a mixture of customers, some WANT that weak point so they dont damage anyother thing in the drivetrain, some, mostly racers, want the strength. factory toyo joint i believe are non greasable... i think.
 
8

89supra7mgte

New Member
Sep 20, 2009
797
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colorado
the place is called driveline service out of co springs.

i wasnt worried about the size after they told me thats the size they use in rockcrawler vehicles which have way more torque than ill see right now. said it is capable of up to 500 hp and i think 650+ tq.
 
BOOSTEDSUPRA

BOOSTEDSUPRA

THE DRIVELINE GUY
Jan 4, 2007
308
0
0
turlock, calif
ya, your fine. even a .065 wall tube can handle more torque than you would think.

and thats the same as my shop, driveline service and auto machine :biglaugh:
 
8

89supra7mgte

New Member
Sep 20, 2009
797
0
0
colorado
this is way off topic but didnt want to start a new thread. what are your guys thoughts on solid mounts? my car has them already, do they create vibration
 
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