Onceover.

[GrimJack]

The rubber coolant plug on the back was discontinued in '89, so you won't be able to replace that.

The chances of the fuel filter needing replacement are pretty slim. It was designed to survive more than a million miles. It's not listed in the maintenance schedule on purpose. Check it before you replace it - put a fuel line from the fuel rail return to a bucket, jumper the fuel pump power, check that you're getting enough flow and that the fuel in the bucket is clean. I've heard of four filters that needed replacing, and IIRC they were all from cars that had sat for years with water in the tank or were running high methanol mixtures.

 

[7M4EVR]

You've got hertz on your decel? That could be the problem..

LOL...yeah yeah...HG! Now leave me and my cheap vac kit alone. I'll believe the pros when I start having problems with em...until then...pretty red it is.

 

[BrandonW]

Indigo is correct. You shouldn't use the green coolant in these engines. You can use Toyota Red, or Zerex G-05. The Zerex stuff is recommended by a lot of intelligent members here. I've been running it for 2 years and its been good. Just make sure you flush the system out really well before you switch, you definitely don't want to mix the different types of coolant.

ive been running the zerex asian vehicle

I had a really hard time finding vacuum lines for my car. The only place that had something close in my area was the Nissan dealer and the guy gave me a whole bunch of it for free because he said he hasn't seen a car that uses it in forever.

at the time of my rebuild I got a silicone vacuum hose "kit" from hose techniques

 

[Piece-it Pete]

So something like this will work for vac lines?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLUE-SILICO...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2c403f1f&vxp=mtr

Funny, I misplaced a piece of the vac hose when we were torqueing the head, I cut a piece off my very very old vac gauge and it fit fine

The rubber coolant plug on the back was discontinued in '89, so you won't be able to replace that.

The chances of the fuel filter needing replacement are pretty slim. It was designed to survive more than a million miles. It's not listed in the maintenance schedule on purpose. Check it before you replace it - put a fuel line from the fuel rail return to a bucket, jumper the fuel pump power, check that you're getting enough flow and that the fuel in the bucket is clean. I've heard of four filters that needed replacing, and IIRC they were all from cars that had sat for years with water in the tank or were running high methanol mixtures.

Ah so, thank you! I'd offer the plug to anyone that needs it but it was only $4.95

Pete

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Aaaannnnnnd - the engine is seized. Didn't keep an eye on the oil apparently. I'll probably be changing it. I've read many threads already about it. I'll inspect the clutch and clean everything. Anything else I should do with the engine/tranny out?

Pete

 

[IndigoMKII]

Pay closer attention to the engine fluids next time.

 

[Backlash2032]

Put a turbo on..

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Piece-it Pete]

It turns out the oil had been checked recently. Wonder how it lost 3 quarts so quickly?

Thought about the turbo but (his!) money is an issue.

Pete

 

[Backlash2032]

I did a full gte swap for about 1500, including an engine rebuild.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Grandavi]

Sometimes, finding the problem is important... sometimes not. If the engine is indeed seized, probably not important at this stage. (unless your going to be using any oil related parts off your dead engine)

Normally, I would think there would be an oil trail and a puddle to show you where it went, however, I will tell you I was peeing oil into my cylinders when my valve stem seals were riding the valve stems. Kinda like a pump.. lol.

You would notice it via smoke though if the engine ate 3 quarts in a very short period. Look at your intercooler and see how much oil is in there is another thing... check your coolant as well... lots and lots of places to look... if you really want to figure it out.
The car I bought with a seized engine wasn't seized at all... a rod endcap fell off. I could have just popped the oil pan and put the cap on with a new bearing if I had really wanted to... but figured if there's a problem like that, it aint worth it.

In my opinion, what you do is dependant on the time you need to do it in. Got a lot of time? GTE swap. Not much time? Pretty sure you can find a 7MGE in decent shape somewhere.. I know I have one in my garage.. lol.

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Part of the problem is - me. I'm a parts changer, anything 'external' really, but I've never worked inside an engine. My sis took it to her mechanic and he said it's probably cheaper to swap a used one in than pay to have it properly diagnosed, then perhaps fixed or not.

I hope to cover the clutch kit (exedy?) and new starter/wires. The rest is on him. I am looking for a 7mge! I'll put a wanted ad up shortly.

Pete

 

[Piece-it Pete]

....! I'll put a wanted ad up shortly.

Pete

Oops! Apparently not, I'm not talkative enough yet Anyone feel free to PM me. [edit - I'm an idiot. Wanted ad posted]

Pete

 

[Grandavi]

JDM 7MGTE isn't that hard to get, if you cant find one local... I have one in my red 88. However... remember.. if you get a Japanese engine, its sat for a long time on a salty dock. you gotta redo the seals and gaskets. If you can, do a MHG with any 7M using ARP studs prior to dropping it into your car to solve the one issue everyone fears...

I started working on my engine and then realized there were so many small things to be sure of, I just took it to an expert. In the end, I have less headache... and much less cash.

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Thanks. I brought up a turbo to his mother and she kabboshed it immediately - he recently got a ticket for 85 in a 65. I tried to sell her on increased value but frankly he's lucky she doesn't just take the car away period, my parents probably would've

I've got a ton of backed up maintenance on my own cars. And engine internals look so complicated. I'd love to learn engine internals but now sure isn't the right time, although I'd be happy to trade headache for cash - if I had any lol.

Pete

 

[7M4EVR]

Another option is always just selling the car and minimizing the loss now, Your already out what you got into the car right (minus what you could get out of the car now of course)? Might be time to think about cutting the loss and using the fix-it money on a good daily driver or something a little more forgiving instead of continuing to throw money at it. What's the body look like? Dont mean to be Debbie Downer, maybe you have good reason to stick it out, I'm just throwing it out there.

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Thanks for the comments, all input is appreciated It's not perfect but it's so perfectly clean rust wise, for a land of salt car you'd have to see it to believe it, and the tranny/suspension/steering/brakes are nice and tight. I wouldn't hesitate to spend $1000 on it (although it's too bad it's needed).

Turns out a swap is a possibility. 1jz is being tossed around a lot. I've been doing some research and it looks like I might need to change the transmission? I think I'll post in the swap thread.

Pete

 

[Grandavi]

1jz will use the R154 transmission (may even be able to use the W58, but I don't recall anyone using it) assuming this is a 5 speed. I think the bell housing needs to be swapped out for that though. 2jz is probably better though (more common) but I am not an expert on that... lol. Lots of options, most are dictated by your budget.

Take a peek at Driftmotion.com for parts, etc. and there are a ton of builds here with swaps.

Just remember, a 1j or 2j is not native to your car, I believe you have to do a lot of rewiring, different ECU, etc.. etc..

If its going to remain a non-turbo I would recommend just staying as a 7MGE. The one thing that build threads lack is $$ figures to give you an idea of what it took to get it there. I have seen 3000-7000 investment MK3's and I wouldn't be happy with them, myself.
Also, if your going to spend any serious coin, the MKIV is a better car overall. I stayed with the MKIII simply because I prefer the body styling. If it weren't for that, I would be in a MKIV.

 

[IndigoMKII]

Just remember, a 1j or 2j is not native to your car, I believe you have to do a lot of rewiring, different ECU, etc.. etc..

It is native if he's got the round engine mounts. It'll bolt right in, and the engine harness simply needs to be extended to fit into the stock location. Some people just use a hole saw on the driver side and mount it there.

R154 drive-shaft is needed if he's a W58. There's a little modification required to make the FMIC fit properly for the 1j but it's not too bad.

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Well I think we're back to the 7M. He needs to have the car running. So I'm thinking the GE, but if I find a GTE I think it would be a go.

Still a great thing, I know he'll end up going with the 1JZ turbo or something fairly powerful eventually, and now he's got a good starting point to accumulate parts. It's a win!

Pete

 

[Backlash2032]

If you ask me, I wouldnt swap in a 1JZ yet. Swap in a 7M GTE and let him enjoy the power. He'll get used to that power and then upgrade and blah blah blah.

Let me tell you this though, knowing how much more power a GTE has than a GE (doesnt seem like much on paper) I'm glad I got used to a GE before getting a GTE. I probably would have wrapped the car around a pole with a GTE... I did some dumb shit with the GE and the only thing that saved me was the lack of power lol.. for example.. wide open throttle on a gravel road..

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk