OK now that i'm putting it back together FINALLY...

[Figit090]

I had to make a new thread for my BHG ordeal assembly because my old thread was dying, and now i'm not tearing down, i'm assembling, and i need to know all this before i can move on. I have checked the TSRM. but i'm still sorry if these seem like silly questions to any of you, i'm a TOTAL newb and this is a step-by-step learning process for me. sofar with everybody's help it's gone well and i've learned a lot. but after consulting the TSRM i still have these questions;

the TSRM says use engine oil to torque the head bolts...is that good enough? i've seen mention of special high-grade lube...but i'm not a turbo or anything, i'll probably go somewhere around 62-65 ft/lbs on the bolts. maybe higher if i have to compinsate for bad lube...will I?

should i put oil on the camshaft bearing cap BOLTS as well to get the proper torque reading? nothing in TSRM on this.

I bought Permatex orange RTV sealant but just remembered that supra90turbo told me to get toyota's FIPG...is the RTV i bought good enough? Is RTV what the TSRM means by "seal packing"?

The man at the shop where i took my engine head said that I will have to check the clearance between the valve lifters and the cam lobes with a feeler gauge and swap in replacement pucks if they are too far out of spec, is this really important right now? I had NO valve work done, he said i didnt nead a valve job.

I bought a tube of CRC Sta-Lube Engine Assembly Lube "with moly-graphite" so i could lube the camshaft "bearings"; is this a good idea? I was looking for lube to torque down my head bolts properly and the salesman said not to use lube, but then he said that this is good for lubing the moving parts since i was asking about the specific lube. It is for this purpose, but i wanted to make sure it was ok, some things are crap and i'm new at this. it says it dissolves after the initial startup, and i'll be doing several immediate oil changes.

one more question (this part isnt in stock:icon_evil) - i was silly and broke the seal between the throttle body and the y-pipe...i've read on here that it's a reusable gasket. can I really just re-use it? if so, will a slight SMALL bend in the metal matter? I ask because, when i pulled the pieces apart, the metal on the multi-layer gasket seperated and has a slight bend, no crease or kink in the metal, but just enough to make stick up a tiny bit when it's not under pressure. i was hoping the pressure of the two parts squishing it would be enough to make it usable again.... any thoughts? i dont know if i ruined it's sealing properties by un-sticking the pieces a little.

that's all for now. i cant move on until these things are answered so i'm just asking the important stuff for now. i'm SO CLOSE and its so exciting! thanks in advance!:love:

 

[jazzsaxman1988]

Reuse it- it'll seal. If you're that worried about it, you can use some FIPG on it, but it's really unnecessary.

Engine oil on the bolts works great.

Torque the bolts to 75ft/lbs. Trust me.

Get the Toyota FIPG. You'll be happy you did later.

 

[Figit090]

thanks jazz.

i'll reuse the gasket, and i'll probably use 30wt engine oil on the bolts if i dont get any other responses, and i'm taking everyone's reccomendation into account on the torque. toyota is NO help...i thought i'd try the dealer and they are "aware" of its issues but offer no responce worth anything. i will most likely at LEAST hit 70, and 75 is probably the highest i'll go unless the lube i use creates an extra 10ft/lbs of resistance.

SO that leaves;

--- what color of FIPG to get...if the RTV i got really isnt that good...but i dont know how one would tell...

--- should i oil the cam caps' bolts during install

--- if that assembly lube i got is good and if maybe it could be better than oil when i torque down the head (says it has moly-graphite in it) here is a picture of the stuff (attached)

---if the valve lifter/cam lobe clearance being in spec is really important or a mild thing...but i havent even checked it yet so after i get the head on....

 

[Figit090]

nobody? i'm going to toyota tomorrow and i need to know what color of FIPG to get at the very least.

 

[IJ.]

Copper RTV on all the exhaust parts and I used 3Bond 1207 RTV on the pan.

Didn't have a lot of success using the Toyota FIPG on the pan last time.

 

[Figit090]

but what about the parts of the engine involving the head? TSRM says to add "seal packing" on the block where the front plate seams with the block, and around the #1 cam caps....

i dont know what kind of sealant to use when it calls for this "seal packing" i think it HAD orange RTV so i bought some...but maybe FIPG is better?

 

[IJ.]

"Seal Packing" is Toyota speak for their FIPG so just about any RTV would work fine.

 

[trydrew]

Man your two threads have been very imformative because im doing nearly the same thing, just a week or so behind you lol.

 

[3p141592654]

This is the stuff you want (black)

00295-00103 $9.59 FIPG

 

[3p141592654]

Assembly lube on cam lobes, oil on cam bearings. Don't put assembly lube on cam bearings.

 

[3p141592654]

You need to get the valve clearances right, or suffer from burned valve if too tight and noisy valvetrain if too loose.

Also, I recommend plastigauging the cam bearings. They are often loose.

 

[Figit090]

ok, i'll do some reading in the TSRM on the plastigauging. dont know a thing about it. ----EDIT #2----- now that i read up on it... what do i do if they are loose? i dont see how i could fix that unless i took some metal off the caps... whats the worst that could happen if i dont fix them? i dont even know where i can buy plastigauge kits....

sadly i didnt want to pay the money to have my valve seals changed but i dont think they were bad...

i asked about a valve "job" and maybe it wouldnt be as expensive to change the seals....i have them... that kinda pisses me off.

thanks for that part number/color...it will come very useful.

thanks a lot 3p!

"Seal Packing" is Toyota speak for their FIPG so just about any RTV would work fine.

thank you. now i know what's going on finally.

Man your two threads have been very imformative because im doing nearly the same thing, just a week or so behind you lol.

i'm glad... i didnt find all my "beginner" questions anywhere so i had to start something even though it's been done a billion times. I'm just a beginner at this and i literally have only done things such as bleeding breaks, changing the oil, and the basic tune up with new ignition stuff (on easy acces engines, not the 7m's sparkplugs!) so this is WAY more than i'm used to. i couldnt bring myself to pay over 1000 dollars (and i didnt HAVE that money)..and i LOVE cars so i figured i could and better do it. i'm so glad i'm not the only one this is helping, and that my two threads aren't a bother. i think i'll post pics of the rebuild in here from now on so i dont have two threads constantly cluttering up the 7mge forum.

speaking of pics...i need to get some up for those that care.

------EDIT------
I'm using sandpaper and a flat surface on my EGR cover to flatten it...no longer need help on this.

i hate asking so many questions.

 

[Figit090]

I am ready to bolt the head down.

i've heard many different things about the proper torque, i'll probably go in torque sweeps of 5 and then 10ft/lbs each pass but i'm not sure where i'm going to stop yet.

I'm using a toyota head gasket and the stock toyota bolts...NOT ARP so i dont want to damage them.

can anyone tell me how exactly the supra communities KNOW that the BHG problem is a torque issue and not a headgasket design problem? My engine shop said that in the last 10 years and especially the last 5 years there have been great advancements in headgaskets....

i will probably not go over 72ft/lbs. i've seen that thing about the bolt testing and they held fine to 72 i think? i'm just wondering how people came upon the "proper" torque.

---edit---found out what vsv looks like...now for where it bolts on...lol

 

[supramacist]

valve seals from the machine shop are right at 100$ It's a wise investment. It's smarter than buying something from ebay. I ordered a head gasket set, over 3 weeks ago and it has not yet shown up. And if I am being bent over there is nothing I can do except cry to ebay and kiss my money good bye. After all is said and done fig...., I want to know if she starts right up. I like your threads man and I enjoy reading them you ARE what supra owners should be, in my book. So good Luck man and keep us posted. mike

 

[trydrew]

I am ready to bolt the head down.

Hahaha me too. :icon_bigg

Just need to clean out the head bolt threads.

Also go here:
http://gallery.sanitylapse.com/v/supra/thumbnails.php?album=89&page=2

And look at pic 39 on the bottom, thats where the first VSV goes on. That write up is a good picture guide, but follow the TSRM closer then that^.

 

[IJ.]

Either genuine seals or Viton aftermarket ones will do the job nicely!

 

[Figit090]

valve seals from the machine shop are right at 100$ It's a wise investment. It's smarter than buying something from ebay. I ordered a head gasket set, over 3 weeks ago and it has not yet shown up. And if I am being bent over there is nothing I can do except cry to ebay and kiss my money good bye. After all is said and done fig...., I want to know if she starts right up. I like your threads man and I enjoy reading them you ARE what supra owners should be, in my book. So good Luck man and keep us posted. mike

Well I believe those metal and rubber pieces that came in my toyota kit are valve seals...and i didnt use them.

Good luck with that head gasket set...my dealer was stupid to say the least... when i got there to pick up my stuff they gave me some hoses some clamps and almost let me walk out with out without my $344 toyota gasket set. D'OH!!! then they tell me "oh, and sorry but i guess i was wrong and those clamps you ordered aren't in yet." after i had called to check earler that day (its a 15 mile one-way with a DANGEROUS highway crossing...grrr)

so those 4 dollar main oil clamps i bought would cost me a few more dollars just to pick them up...stupid stealership.:icon_evil

thanks for the positive comments supramacist, i'm glad this is going so well...without all of you guys helping me i'd probably either be only a fraction of the way done or further done than i am using cheap gaskets and bad methods. well...i'd still do a nice job but here there is much more confidence!:biglaugh:

Hahaha me too.

Just need to clean out the head bolt threads.

Also go here:
http://gallery.sanitylapse.com/v/supra/thumb...lbum=89&page=2

And look at pic 39 on the bottom, thats where the first VSV goes on. That write up is a good picture guide, but follow the TSRM closer then that^.

sweet, thats very helpful, thanks a lot! yeah i actually left ALL of that crap in the engine bay. to think i actually considered leaving the intake manifold there as well because i didnt think i could unhook the tranny/clutch lead (some sensor...not sure which...reverse lights maybe)

hehe...well my head, fuel rail, and about 8 connectors are on now...who's in the lead? its NOT NOT NOT a race...but...i still wonder who will get there first...hehe. i'm trying to figure out some way to get a video of this sucker starting. maybe i could use my old VHS recorder behemoth and transfer the data to my PC via RCA plugs... if i can get a program that will convert to windows media or other compatible file.... hmmmm.

Either genuine seals or Viton aftermarket ones will do the job nicely!

yeah...um... are you talking about valve seals? i have a set i'm not even going to use...:cry: :3d_frown:

so yeah i didnt get the valve job cause mine were fine... and my car didnt burn oil so its ok. it only has 108k miles on it :naughty:

i have to go get valve cover hex bolts.

 

[3p141592654]

Too late now it sounds, but you just measure the clearance and then lap the bearing caps to remove enough material to get back in spec. The valves push the cam upwards so the majority of the wear is in the cap. Loose bearings makes the valetrain noisy, reduces oiling at the back bearings, and can make adjusting the valves tricky.

ok, i'll do some reading in the TSRM on the plastigauging. dont know a thing about it. ----EDIT #2----- now that i read up on it... what do i do if they are loose? i dont see how i could fix that unless i took some metal off the caps... whats the worst that could happen if i dont fix them? i dont even know where i can buy plastigauge kits....

sadly i didnt want to pay the money to have my valve seals changed but i dont think they were bad...

i asked about a valve "job" and maybe it wouldnt be as expensive to change the seals....i have them... that kinda pisses me off.

 

[jetjock]

There seems to be a lot of owners who rebuild engines without any experience. Fwiw this isn't wise. You should have someone experienced helping the first few times you do it.

 

[IJ.]

I'll start a poll for the how long till "My car blows smoke on deaceleration" post!