Ok, I guess its my turn
- Thread starter polobai
- Start date
To modify the cover, I had to cut it short right at the breathers on the valve covers, and then relocate the threaded plug in the valley to the 3rd to last hole and drill a corresponding hole in the cover. I finished it up with some of the black edging on the top so the wires dont arc against the aluminum.
I still have lots left to do now that the ignition problem seems to be fixed, have to rewire my knock sensors (going to get a kit from Sheaff as his seems to use better cable than I can find here) and change out my CPS because it is leaking oil out of a hole in the back of it (dunno how??) I cant think of any restrictions in the oiling system that would make the seal blow in the CPS besides the oil thermostat being 90% closed when the engine is warming up. Anyone with a oil thermostat experience similar problems?
Oh, I also discovered that my smart behind mounted my nozzle for the meth injection lower than the resivour-so now the alky that I have in there drains into the ic system by itself. I have to move the nozzle up now-and plug the existing hole.......
Awesome updates.
But I bet you can't wait for someone to ask you why you turboed a N/A engine.. haha
When you tell them to take a closer look I wonder if they'll notice the CPS and Coil packs. Or will you have to explain that you just used N/A valve covers..
Should be fun to see peoples re actions.
Nice job.
But I bet you can't wait for someone to ask you why you turboed a N/A engine.. haha
When you tell them to take a closer look I wonder if they'll notice the CPS and Coil packs. Or will you have to explain that you just used N/A valve covers..
Should be fun to see peoples re actions.
Nice job.
2
2jzmk3
Guest
suprahero said:
im pretty sure he did it himself. they are easy to make it you have the tools.. looking good ray! get that thing running so we can hit the track...
Thanks, I did the AN fittings myself-they are not too hard, actually alot easier than I thought! Just make sure you have a good vice and a good pair of crescent wrenches or AN wrenches, as well as some assembly lube (wd40 works). Sean, the car is running-just far from tuned which I will do as soon as I get these little bugs worked out. Any word on the Orlando meet?
Happy New Year guys! Sorry about the lack of updates, but the car is comming together. I moved the nozzle for the meth injection higher up so it does not pull from the resivour on its own anymore (was lower than the res. before). I also ordered on of Shaeffs knock sensor rewire kits since I cant get the correct cable locally anymore. Once that is rewired, I will reflash my MAFT Pro to version 4.8 and tune the car. In the mean time, here are some pics of how I wired up a microswitch to use the q45 tb on my car:
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Here is how I connected the wiring. My car is an 88 so wire colors may be different from yours. I had it connected like X-Mans thread showed, but for some reason I could not get the idle validation to trigger, and the throttle showed backwards (100% at idle, and 0% at WOT).
Blue wire on harness goes to black on q45 harness
White with red stripe on harness goes to white (middle) on q45 harness
Brown is split into two leads-one lead goes to the red on the q45 harness
and the other goes to the one post on the microswitch. On the other post of the microswitch, goes the Yellow with blue stripe (idle validation) wire. I had to use a microswitch as I could not get the computer to read the idle validation off the q45 TPS body. You do not have to connect any wires to the TPS body of the q45, just the 3 wire harness with the gray connector is used. I know it may seem confusing, but I get no TPS code, and it works great (no rpm cut). It also reads the throttle correctly this way (0% at idle, 100% at WOT). Timing is back to normal, and best of all i didnt have to buy an adaptor or make my stock tps work on the q45-all I had to do was buy a microswitch. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Blue wire on harness goes to black on q45 harness
White with red stripe on harness goes to white (middle) on q45 harness
Brown is split into two leads-one lead goes to the red on the q45 harness
and the other goes to the one post on the microswitch. On the other post of the microswitch, goes the Yellow with blue stripe (idle validation) wire. I had to use a microswitch as I could not get the computer to read the idle validation off the q45 TPS body. You do not have to connect any wires to the TPS body of the q45, just the 3 wire harness with the gray connector is used. I know it may seem confusing, but I get no TPS code, and it works great (no rpm cut). It also reads the throttle correctly this way (0% at idle, 100% at WOT). Timing is back to normal, and best of all i didnt have to buy an adaptor or make my stock tps work on the q45-all I had to do was buy a microswitch. Please let me know if you have any questions.
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quick update: I ordered one of Shaeff's knock sensor rewire kits and installed it yesterday. Great product, and cleared up my code 52 with no problems. Great guy to deal with and great product. I also hooked up the timing monitor on the maft-pro-timing looks good when moving, but at idle its reading 110 degrees! I am thinking this is becuase the terminals in the diag box are not jumped? Other than that, comming along slowly but shurely...
