Ok, having a few issues. Jerking/rough idle..

[whitemike]

Alright guys, normally I would sort these things out myself but I'm simply stumped.

Everything was fine, until yesterday when I finished my heli-coil job. My exhaust studs were stripped, so i heli-coiled, and everything is great now, no exhaust leaks. Can't sell a broken motor, ya know?

Anyways, so It's all back together, and I set the timing 10BTDC.. and first of all, it was very difficult to set the timing because the mark was jumping back and forth - This tells me It's an ignition problem.

Next, I went to drive it, and it just sputters up to 2-3k and has a HARD time getting there. Next, while cruising, it's constantly jerking back/forth. I know this isn't the driveline because it wasn't doing it 2 days ago.

Next, I re-set the timing, and the jerking isn't bad but It's still there. I'm idling very rough and sometimes so low that it stalls. I have a FFIM with ISC. The ISC is fed from the FFIM to the intake, so It's metered. I'm really stumped here guys.

Also, there's a popping like I'm running pig rich, only at idle.. I figured that may be a vac leak, but I can't find one.. Idling at 18-20vac

What I've tried:
-Swapped coil packs with known working ones
-Swapped wires with known working ones

Any help is MUCH APPRECIATED! If you're in FL I'll buy you a beer,
-Mike

 

[RazoE]

is she throwing any codes..?

does she boost?

 

[Sawbladz]

I'm assuming you had the CPS out? Maybe you put it back in off by one tooth.

 

[whitemike]

is she throwing any codes..?

does she boost?

No codes, boosting fine, only running 10lbs since I dropped it in. It's not a HORRIBLE problem so I don't think It'd throw codes. Feels like some kind of weird ignition problem. Hoping one of the pros chime in.

---------- Post added at 07:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:46 PM ----------

I'm assuming you had the CPS out? Maybe you put it back in off by one tooth.

If it was off by one tooth, I don't think I'd be able to correctly set the timing

 

[Sawbladz]

A few years ago I installed a CPS off by a tooth. I was still able to set timing but it wasn't constant. It jumped around a lot. The car also ran but idled like hell. Just thinking that if you removed the CPS it's something I would check. So easy to reinstall it off just that little bit.

 

[NTRA08]

why did you do 10BTDC? I do OTDC and everything is fine for me

 

[IBoughtASupra]

That is what the TSRM says. 10BTDC.

 

[NTRA08]

Thats what it says. But what I was to taught is totally different. I've built three 7m's and I have never done 10btdc

 

[whitemike]

Thats what it says. But what I was to taught is totally different. I've built three 7m's and I have never done 10btdc

Can someone discuss?

 

[Sawbladz]

Can someone discuss?

I have NFI what the hell he is on about. 10 degrees before top dead center is where it should be for stock timing. I don't even know what the O in his acronyn would stand for. You either have before or after.

 

[whitemike]

A few years ago I installed a CPS off by a tooth. I was still able to set timing but it wasn't constant. It jumped around a lot. The car also ran but idled like hell. Just thinking that if you removed the CPS it's something I would check. So easy to reinstall it off just that little bit.

Installing the CPS confuses me anyways, with all the adjustment you're allowed, how do you know where to install it? Dead center on the adjustment screw, or at the top or bottom? I've never seen this mentioned before

---------- Post added at 09:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:09 AM ----------

I have NFI what the hell he is on about. 10 degrees before top dead center is where it should be for stock timing. I don't even know what the O in his acronyn would stand for. You either have before or after.

I think It's "On Top Dead Center" but, TSRM/JSeaman/others all say 10BTDC so I think I'll stay. Also, checked your build thread and LOVE your PCV system, I think I'm going to copy if that's ok (and if money permits all those fittings!)

 

[IBoughtASupra]

*Calling IJ To The Rescue.....*

 

[whitemike]

*Calling IJ To The Rescue.....*

Yes, please, i need an expert to chime in here.

Ok guys going to work with this today:

-New plugs
-Re-check ignition sequence
-Re-test coils
-Re-install CPS
-Re-install TPS

Maybe dump some fuel inj cleaner in my tank? If my injectors are bad/dripping couldn't this make a difference? I need to ahve them flow tested and cleaned but can't afford the downtime.

 

[jetjock]

... how do you tighten the return on the fuel rail?

The one with the banjo bolt either needs to be tighter, or the crush washers replaced. If it has a hose and clamps you need, an new hose and clamps.

I really don't fully get what your saying

 

[whitemike]

JJ, we never doubted his credibility

Care to chime in on my issue? I've been waiting for an expert to see my thread.

 

[Sawbladz]

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=24

What you want to do is remove the cover on the CPS so you can see the rotor inside it move. Then line up your groove with the drilled mark. Now, take notice of the exact position of the rotor when these marks are lined up. This is how you want it to look once you have the CPS installed in the head. Since the gears on the CPS are not straight cut, you will need to turn the gear slightly before you push it in so that as it inserts into the head, it will mesh with the gears and end up like it was with the groove and hole lined up. This may take a few tries. If memory serves, you need to turn the rotor counter clockwise before installation.

Good luck and I hope it solves your issue.

 

[whitemike]

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=24

What you want to do is remove the cover on the CPS so you can see the rotor inside it move. Then line up your groove with the drilled mark. Now, take notice of the exact position of the rotor when these marks are lined up. This is how you want it to look once you have the CPS installed in the head. Since the gears on the CPS are not straight cut, you will need to turn the gear slightly before you push it in so that as it inserts into the head, it will mesh with the gears and end up like it was with the groove and hole lined up. This may take a few tries. If memory serves, you need to turn the rotor counter clockwise before installation.

Good luck and I hope it solves your issue.

I LOVE YOU! That's the tip I was looking for this whole damn time!

I'll be re-setting the timing in a few, let you guys know how it goes.

 

[jetjock]

Do what Saw said. In other words follow the book. Not bashing you but I continue to be amazed at how many people have problems with the CPS thing. How can something so simple be so confusing?

 

[whitemike]

Do what Saw said. In other words follow the book. Not bashing you but I continue to be amazed at how many people have problems with the CPS thing. How can something so simple be so confusing?

JJ, with your bulging brain It's hard to believe there's anybody out there that you -don't- consider an idiot. I usually consider myself a pretty smart guy but when I read your posts I'm generally impressed every time, not to dick ride but there's a lot of tards on here and It's nice to read some quality stuff every now and then.

 

[jetjock]

Bulging brain? It's an old car not the Space Shuttle. And I don't think everyone is an idiot. The problem is some people refuse to learn basics and without an understanding of the fundamentals it's near impossible to puzzle something out. Still, all one has to do is follow the book.

For the CPS look at it this way: Its not about timing, its about the bracket. If the wiring were extended so the CPS could be rotated 360 degrees and locked at any point prepositioning wouldn't matter...