Ok, having a few issues. Jerking/rough idle..
- Thread starter whitemike
- Start date
JJ
maybe if you were to put the whole part of the conversation on there it wouldn't look so stupid. Not just parts of it. And I was just putting in my thoughts about your thread. And the "0" is 0degrees. TDC
maybe if you were to put the whole part of the conversation on there it wouldn't look so stupid. Not just parts of it. And I was just putting in my thoughts about your thread. And the "0" is 0degrees. TDC
NTRA08;1546708 said:
Either way, people have debates about adjusting TWO degrees, a TEN degree difference is a BIG difference dude. You should re-set the timing on your 7M's..
NTRA08;1546708 said:
There's a huge difference between setting cam timing (damper pointing at zero with both cam gear index marks pointing at the rear cover index - #1 piston at TDC), setting base timing (with the diag block jumped and a light) and how the ECU advances/retarts timing based on engine parameters. What you said was not in any coherent context.
If you post in the Tech sections, the following apply:
1) You better know what you are talking about with 100% accuracy - links to the reference info is what you need to post in addition to comments.
2) "I heard", "my thoughts", "my sister-in-law's cousin said", etc have no place in this section - do not post this kind of garbage here.
3) Post in context as to what the OP needs to know - going off on a tangent just confuses the issue. You need to be able to write complete, concise sentences.
Consider this a warning - do not post in the Tech sections in this manner again. I highly suggest you think before you post again.
This is not up for debate.
NTRA08: I did copy the entire conversation. Truth is your post history shows you have NFI about a lot of things. If I were you I'd take jdub's advice: read more and post less, especially in this section...
Guys I replaced my CPS and reset timing. Issue is gone.
I am dealing with another one, however.. I was hoping it'd be fixed when the timing was correctly set but it wasn't.
Next Issue: Car dips really low or stalls when putting into neutral or pressing clutch after driving anything above 2k. Not quite sure where to start with this. I don't have any vac leaks, isc is clicking when car turns off. I was thinking it's due to the q45 tb not having the throttle easing mechanism on it.. Then again a lot of people run the q45 without any issues. So I'm not quite sure what's happening here.
I was going to replace the afm with a maft pro, so that will eliminate the afm being an issue, and will eliminate intake leaks being the issue. Any other suggestions?
Thanks guys.
-Mike
I am dealing with another one, however.. I was hoping it'd be fixed when the timing was correctly set but it wasn't.
Next Issue: Car dips really low or stalls when putting into neutral or pressing clutch after driving anything above 2k. Not quite sure where to start with this. I don't have any vac leaks, isc is clicking when car turns off. I was thinking it's due to the q45 tb not having the throttle easing mechanism on it.. Then again a lot of people run the q45 without any issues. So I'm not quite sure what's happening here.
I was going to replace the afm with a maft pro, so that will eliminate the afm being an issue, and will eliminate intake leaks being the issue. Any other suggestions?
Thanks guys.
-Mike
Are you running a vented BOV? If so, there's your problem...
You're releasing metered air, and causing the car to run rich..
Some folks have stalling issues, others have dips in RPMs, but the BOV is the culprit...
You're releasing metered air, and causing the car to run rich..
Some folks have stalling issues, others have dips in RPMs, but the BOV is the culprit...
RazoE;1547688 said:
You know, it had crossed my mind. I suppose we will see when I convert to map. Thanks
I don't know why I don't share with the community more, I enjoy having all your opinions.. Two (or a few thousand..) heads are greater than one.
RazoE;1547688 said:
Just installed my HKS VPC, car is running great. Went for a 10min test run, no stalling. Let's see tomorrow if it drops on a spirited run..
Sawbladz;1546677 said:
I tried your method of installing the CPS today and it didnt work. The timing was too far out to adjust it to spec. The TSRM doesnt say the timing marks on the CPS have to be lined up once it is installed in the head.
I just lined up the timing marks on the CPS. Inserted it into the head while aligning the mounting hole. Allowing the spiral gear to turn in the head as it went it. Once I did this I was able to set the timing to 10 deg with adjustment on either side of it.
okay honestly i've seen 2 ways to do the cps and one is to turn it counter clockwise one tooth to make it line up like it does in the tsrm once pushed all the way into the head.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=24
the second is having the cps already lined up like the tsrm says and when you push it in the head the gears will turn clockwise one tooth matching up the beginning of the hole and the metal
http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c295/shaeff/?action=view¤t=cpsalligntext.jpg
i don't know which one will work really i just did the top one to match the tsrm and my car is still starting to backfire once at operating temps! T.T anyone know which is the official right way?
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=24
the second is having the cps already lined up like the tsrm says and when you push it in the head the gears will turn clockwise one tooth matching up the beginning of the hole and the metal
http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c295/shaeff/?action=view¤t=cpsalligntext.jpg
i don't know which one will work really i just did the top one to match the tsrm and my car is still starting to backfire once at operating temps! T.T anyone know which is the official right way?
The CPS should look like what's in the 2nd link (pic) - does not matter how you get it into that position as long as the cranl damper is pointing at zero and both cam gears are pointing at the back cover index.