Oil pressure paranoia...

Kai

Kai

That Limey Bastard
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May 18, 2006
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This is on the blue d/d auto, not the new red monster (the one in the buildup gallery).

Oil pressure at cold, is just over 20psi, on a freshly started engine, thats been sitting overnight.

Now, i know that the spec is 4.3psi on hot idle...and thats about what i have, maybe a little more - but the needle sits so low on the gauge, i can't tell for sure.

I also know that the oil cooler pressure relief valve should open at 38psi. I can't get that high, unless i bring it to 5000rpm. Now it's not sluggish to get there, but does take longer than my other supra does.

At 1750rpm, you're sat at 20psi, and at 3000rpm, you're about 30psi - 10psi per 1000rpm, roughly, with the exception of idle. The cams also sound rattly as hell, particularly noticeable around 1750rpm (i KNOW what rod knock sounds like...and this is a) twice as fast b) goes away when warmed up).

The oil in there at the moment is Shell Helix 10w40. I was thinking that an oil and filter change for 5w30 and a genuine Toyota filter would bring me less worrying results, plus, i have a spare relief valve spring and gasket...incase its worn, and is opening too early?

jDub - you'll know alllll about this :naughty:
 
jdub

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Time to hook up a mechanical gauge at the sender port so you can really see what pressure its producing ;)

Your pressures are in spec Kai, but for a 10W-40 cold it seems a bit low. First thing I would check is the cooler relief valve. Let it idle to warm up and feel the oil cooler...it should be dead cold. Could be you have weak spring or a piece of crud has it stuck open. Another possibility is the squirter bolts...same thing applies. Either can tap pressure off the system.

You hear valve tap because that thicker 10W-40 is having trouble getting up to the top of the motor. The idle pressure and so, so ops pressure is not helping.

I would go with a 5W-30 Kai...Helix is good stuff (should be for the price). Another oil to consider is Castrol Edge 0W-30 (replaces Castrol SLX Longtec 0W-30)...this oil is identical to the German Castrol we have in the US. It's a PAO synthetic with outstanding low OAT characteristics and a bit thicker at ops temp than most 30W oils. It will flow much better than what you are using now...should help the valve noise issue.

Before any of you other guys ask, Castrol Edge in the UK is not the same oil as in the US. The US version Castrol Edge is a hydrocracked dino oil...it's good, but is not a Grp IV or Grp V synthetic like the oil above (or German Castrol).

I would not use a Toyota filter if you gave it to me...one exception is the Denso Japan filters, they are good. The Thailand filters are crap. If you can get Wix filters, that is what I would use. Take a look at the filter sticky in the oil section.
 
Kai

Kai

That Limey Bastard
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jdub;1460825 said:
Time to hook up a mechanical gauge at the sender port so you can really see what pressure its producing ;)

Your pressures are in spec Kai, but for a 10W-40 cold it seems a bit low. First thing I would check is the cooler relief valve. Let it idle to warm up and feel the oil cooler...it should be dead cold. Could be you have weak spring or a piece of crud has it stuck open. Another possibility is the squirter bolts...same thing applies. Either can tap pressure off the system.

You hear valve tap because that thicker 10W-40 is having trouble getting up to the top of the motor. The idle pressure and so, so ops pressure is not helping.

I would go with a 5W-30 Kai...Helix is good stuff (should be for the price). Another oil to consider is Castrol Edge 0W-30 (replaces Castrol SLX Longtec 0W-30)...this oil is identical to the German Castrol we have in the US. It's a PAO synthetic with outstanding low OAT characteristics and a bit thicker at ops temp than most 30W oils. It will flow much better than what you are using now...should help the valve noise issue.

Before any of you other guys ask, Castrol Edge in the UK is not the same oil as in the US. The US version Castrol Edge is a hydrocracked dino oil...it's good, but is not a Grp IV or Grp V synthetic like the oil above (or German Castrol).

I would not use a Toyota filter if you gave it to me...one exception is the Denso Japan filters, they are good. The Thailand filters are crap. If you can get Wix filters, that is what I would use. Take a look at the filter sticky in the oil section.
Click to expand...


Well the 5w30 i have is 'Unipart' - and cost me about $40 for 5 litres. Can't get a wix filter here, i have again, a 'Unipart' one, but the Toyota one does say 'Denso' on it and doesn't look like a thailand made one.

It's cold here - like, cold enough that in the mornings, theres frost on the car. Last oil change was done in May, but they didn't get to the oil filter at all - only put about 200 miles on it since then though (i don't drive a whole lot here). Seemingly the undertray got in the way...

I don't trust a lot of cheap, shitty filters that we have here, the toyota one is about the most expensive one i can source! I'd rather have a K&N, or one of those big bastards you yanks get...
 
jdub

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Kai;1460869 said:
Well the 5w30 i have is 'Unipart' - and cost me about $40 for 5 litres. Can't get a wix filter here, i have again, a 'Unipart' one, but the Toyota one does say 'Denso' on it and doesn't look like a thailand made one.

It's cold here - like, cold enough that in the mornings, theres frost on the car. Last oil change was done in May, but they didn't get to the oil filter at all - only put about 200 miles on it since then though (i don't drive a whole lot here). Seemingly the undertray got in the way...

I don't trust a lot of cheap, shitty filters that we have here, the toyota one is about the most expensive one i can source! I'd rather have a K&N, or one of those big bastards you yanks get...
Click to expand...

I know for a fact Castrol Edge is marketed in the UK ;)

If it's a true Denso, it will say "Made in Japan"...the crappy version will say "Made in Thailand". Kai - read the filter sticky...if you had, you would see that a K&n is a middle of the road filter. It also lists the various filer makers and the brands they market under.


Poodles;1460871 said:
Hmmm at those temps you should be 40psi or more... gauge may be off.
Click to expand...

Hence the "time for a mechanical gauge" comment ;)
 
Kai

Kai

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It's sold....but at a price conforming to 'how much can i get for my soul?' - all oil/fuel/petroleum is massively taxed here. In the name of being 'green' of course. Shitty 20w50 isnt a problem (cause most of it stays on the shelf), but even 5 litres will set you back $20.

The more specialised the grade, the more premium it commands...cant even find single weights here anymore...

I'd like to find out who makes the Unipart Oil though...

**edit** I did, Fuchs. What i have, is the same as this: http://www.fuchslubricants.com/products/8/titan-gt1-sae-5w30

Yeah, i read the filter sticky, and it LOOKS like a Jap one, says denso on it...but it says 'Made in China' on it :/

P/N: 90915-YZZJ3
 
TurboStreetCar

TurboStreetCar

Formerly Nosechunks
Feb 25, 2006
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Long Island, Ny
Strange, i have low idle pressures, but when cold start (40-50F) its about 80-90psi ~800rpm, when Hot, drove around for a bit, mix of hard and easy driving, < 2psi on german castrol here.

Will be switching to redline 5w-40 in hope that the ester base will keep viscosity up so i can maintain pressure when hot idle.

As Jdub said, Your issue sounds like pressure is bleeding off somewhere. Cold oil pressure should be up higher then that, especially with that oil. If it were bearing clearances, having cold pressure that low would make hot pressure non existent.
 
Kai

Kai

That Limey Bastard
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May 18, 2006
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Portslade, England
rationalrecipes.blogspot.com
Unfortunately, the weather is holding me back from doing anything - although i have a covered, concrete work area, the insane wind, and freezing rain is making working on it a distinct impossibility - doubly so seeing as i'm supposed to be taking it easy after surgery.

Drove it again this morning (to and from the hospital for my checkup), and it seems that the car is sluggish as well...it just doesn't like going over 3000rpm - honestly the noise its making is probably warning me off pressing the throttle much, no rattles or knocks, but it sounds...like its being oil starved. So, i won't be driving it again until i can lay underneath it without bursting open like a sausage! :(
 
airhead04

airhead04

New Member
Aug 21, 2009
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Lima, Ohio, United States
Kai, thats bhg, atleast thats what it is for mine. I had great oil pressure for about 3 days then it started doing the same thing out of nowhere. Now Im lucky if I can get it to pass 20 psi if I try. (I dont though, it just sits there):cry:
 
E

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
Mar 30, 2005
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what should oil pressure be while cranking/priming the motor? I have an electric gauge that is showing around 100kpa after cranking for ~10-15 seconds.
 
adampecush

adampecush

Regular Supramaniac
May 11, 2006
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Edmonton
WTF, there are free units converters everywhere...

100 kilopascals (gauge) is approximately 14.5 psig. I'd say that should be sufficient cranking pressure on a cold engine.
 
BOOSTEDSUPRA

BOOSTEDSUPRA

THE DRIVELINE GUY
Jan 4, 2007
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turlock, calif
my gte cold is a little over 40psi. 80mph at 3100 rpm hot its around 38-39psi. idle hot is barely above 0, maybe 2-5ish. my motor is a little tired i know, but not worn out. no smoke ect. plus im working on a stroker for it so its comin out anywho. i might add my car is VERY spoiled, it sleeps covered in the garage, lol.

hope this helps a tad.
 
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