Oil line BLEW UP!! backwards?

[PorterzSupra]

IJ - "No Where in the sticky does it say to run 8mm"

ummm..... I really dont know what post you guys are reading but Shaeff clearly states

Shaeff - "basically, all you do is place between 5-10mm of washers in where it says in the diagram, and it'll raise your oil pressure a decent amount"

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4419

 

[jdub]

10mm is way too much! 10mm = 1cm = ~ 3/8" All you want to do is raise the pressure about 10 psi...1/10" - 1/8" is plenty to put additional pressure on the relief valve spring to achieve the extra 10 psi. An old rule of thumb...you want about 10 psi of oil pressure for each 1000 rpm.

This will tell you all you want to know about oil, pressure, volume, etc...
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/

My 2 cents for what it's worth.

 

[supra90turbo]

Porterzzz:
You're right. Shaeff does say that, however, the rest of that post is littered with edited information showing that 5mm is more like it.
In case you missed it, here it is again.
Please understand that the first part was heresay and was yet to be determined by shaeff. Don't put this on his back.
Pay close attention to the quote by Ian.... sound familiar??
Noteworthy items marked in bold.

basically, all you do is place between 5-10mm of washers in where it says in the diagram, and it'll raise your oil pressure a decent amount. i'm in the process of doing this now. i'll post my findings. information given to me by Ideal Supra. thanks jayson!

edit: i was just told by another member (IJ) that 5mm of washers would suffice... so the debate begins...

edit2: i was speaking with IJ again, and he says that 14mm of washers will just about coil bind the spring, causing the relief valve to seize, and blow the rubber gasket on your oil filter, or even worse, the actual oil filter. personally, i would go with about 7mm at most.

edit3: Quote:

A good analogy: the relief acts like a wastegate for the Oil Pump and if you shim it solid it can't open and something has to blow!

by this, IJ means that if the relief can't open, that you'll blow the weakest point in the oiling system, most commonly the o-ring on the oil filter, or in extreme cases, the oil filter itself!

edit4: i spoke with flubyux2, and he suggested that the washers go right inside the hollow bolt, and that you should use washers instead of a solid piece of bolt stock to allow oil to still flow through that bolt. (what Aisin intended for it to do) thanks for the info, chris!

 

[PorterzSupra]

Yea he says 5mm would suffice and 14 would coil bind the spring, he dident say 8 would, and he would "go with 7 mm at the most". I went with 8 it dont sound that far off. It seems like this is a VERY risky and time consuming mod to do!! If 8 bound up the spring then if I went with 7 it would probably be the same thing. From my experience it seems like 4mm would be the max but even then its risky, has anyone actually done this?? I think he needs to delete the first part of the post that says 5-10 mm

 

[PorterzSupra]

BTW how hard is it to change oil seals in a T6/T4 hybrid? Is it expensive to get done ? If it was a NA all that would happen is you would have to change it but since its a turbo car u have to risk the turbo seals as well, a little harder to fix then buying a new oil filter....

 

[supra90turbo]

I could be turbo dumb, but I've never heard of a T6 turbo. T66, but no T6.

Think about it. If someone says 7mm is the most you can go safely, why would you go with 8mm? Seems like you were testing the edge, and now it's like you have no idea why it's blowing oil everywhere...

There would be no need to delete that first part, because it's clearly outlined in the rest of that post.

Sorry this happened, but hopefully you pull some knowledge from all of this to understand why it happened. If not, well godspeed to you.

You should have noticed that it said 7mm max, and gone with 4mm or 5mm.

 

[shaeff]

just for the record, i believe i put in 6-7mm, and i have no such problems...

i think it's 6

-shaeff

 

[PorterzSupra]

im not saying it your fault at all im just trying to figure out what the correct setting is, what do u run for PSI cold at idle and hot?

 

[IJ.]

Ok this is getting ridiculous......

Dude if you don't understand a Mod DON'T do it.......

I read on www.doityourselfvasectomys.com you could do it with a scapel and needle n thread I'm NOT about to hack my nuts with a box cutter....

Shaeff used 6>7mm and it worked but every single motor is different, Oil viscosity plays a part so does bearing wear and the general condition of the motor.

You didn't read my post a few threads back about Turbo seals?

They DON"T BLOW stop dreaming correct the issues and it will be fine.

They sometimes flood and occasionally you'll cook up a seal with Carbon if you don't idle it down correctly but from your description it'll be fine once you get the plumbing right!

I'm noticing a lot of the young guys here are all experts and can spec a 1000 hp build but have NFI about the basics....

Bit of a clue if you don't know don't do it the 7M will bitchslap you sideways as it's NOT a forgiving motor.

Sorry if this all sounds harsh but it's starting to piss me off.
<edited for a typo>

 

[PorterzSupra]

UMMMM yea there are oil seals in the turbo and they do blow I herd a pop and my downpipe and elbow are full of oil, why are you being such an asshole and being sarcastic, do u think your better then me because u think you know more? We are all here to learn stuff this sarcasim and attitude needs to stop not just with you but there are others too I see it all the time, this isent highschool stop acting like your a buncha little kids!!

 

[IJ.]

OK you know.......

I'm done have fun destroying your car through ignorance.

last hint before I go try READING what people post not just the parts that confirm your misconceptions.

 

[supra90turbo]

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to IJ. again.
:yelrotflm

 

[IJ.]

Run Forrest run......
(check CP for an explanation Kurt)

 

[IJ.]

do u think your better then me because u think you know more? !!

I know this might sound stupid but umm where are the head bolts!!!??

Ummm I KNOW where the headbolts are so yes!

 

[jetjock]

Ok this is getting ridiculous......

Dude if you don't understand a Mod DON'T do it...

Now that is a nugget of gold. Following rote directions without understanding what it is one is doing or why is at the root of many a problem. Not to mention the failure to check what one has done afterwards.

 

[supra90turbo]

We are all here to learn stuff this sarcasim and attitude needs to stop

The sarcasm will stop when you start learning and not ignoring perfect information practically spoon-fed to you.

 

[jetjock]

I'm puzzled by this whole shimming thing anyway. The Supra uses a low pressure high volume system. As if it weren't enough that millions of cars run that way without problem (including mine) for many thousands of miles, excess oil pressure has nothing to do with preventing metal to metal contact. It takes very little oil pressure to do the job and believing otherwise flies in the face of basic tribology. Those who buy into it need to study up on hydrodynamic and boundary lubrication theory

 

[jimi87-t]

The sarcasm will stop when you start learning and not ignoring perfect information practically spoon-fed to you.

:withstupi

 

[Joel W.]

jetjock: can you explain the theory a bit for us please. I did some research and found 4 definitions for "boundary lubrication", and about 128,000 websites on the subject of the "theory"..., but honestly my comprehension skills are not the best and i get lost in their lingo.. i think you are saying that 70-90psi+ whatever oil pressure may actually cause wear? eat away bearrings?

 

[jetjock]

http://tinyurl.com/oozkq

No, I'm not saying high pressure is a bad thing, it's simply not needed for the power levels most here run. Some pressure is needed to maintain hydrostatic lubrication but it isn't the pressure that prevents contact, it's the film and how the oil wedge is built up under load. Jacking the pressure up in most cases is just a "feel good" thing. Course, as loads go more pressure is needed to maintain the film so I'm speaking in general terms. That said, running the correct oil is more important than pressure

Look at it this way: Say you have 80 psi oil pressure. Do you really believe the rod is pushing on the crank journal with less that 80 psi of force? Especially during the power stroke? It's way more than that so it's not the oil pressure that prevents contact (fluids are incompressable) although some pressure is still required to maintain the film.The same goes for less than 80 psi. As long as the film is maintained high pressures are not required and it doesn't take 80 psi to do this under the loads seen in anything but a very high powered engine or something with a large load bearing surface area.

You also need to understand that part of your oil add pack includes, as a last resort, anti-scuffing EP additives to protect from boundary problems. I assume this shimming stuff is to ward off rod knock but all this shows once again that knock in the 7M is not inherent....it's the result of external influences like coolant in the oil or a bad rebuild.