oil in exhaust manifold

[88supraFAST1]

ya but the block was a re-man witch means it most likely already has .20-.50 thous over pistons. i would get a die caliper and check the bore size on the block you have in your car and see if it's in stock spec, because if it's not in stock spec then you need another block for those .20 over pistons you got.

Stock Bore: 83.00 mm (3.27 in) iirc??

 

[starscream5000]

^ those are some big ass overbores :aigo:

We can't tell you over the net, you'll have to take the block to a mechanic and have the tolerances checked.

 

[sneakypete]

ya but the block was a re-man witch means it most likely already has .20-.50 thous over pistons. i would get a die caliper and check the bore size on the block you have in your car and see if it's in stock spec, because if it's not in stock spec then you need another block for those .20 over pistons you got.

Stock Bore: 83.00 mm (3.27 in) iirc??

the block in the car right now is a remanufactured.... its in pretty nice shape, but as you are saying it probably has oversized pistons (i doubt and hope its not .050 over). the spare block i have (which i plan on using for the built) has not been machined before.... as far as i know.
this all would be easier if i had a caliper.... anyone live in the tristate are that wants to lend me a caliper???

luckily the shop im going to isnt too far, but it would be a pain if the motor i brought wouldnt work because it was machined too much, cracked, or hardness wasnt sufficient.

 

[WhtMa71]

If its .020 (.5mm)over now you will be fine going .040 over.
Not .5(or 1/2" ) over.

 

[sneakypete]

If its .020 (.5mm)over now you will be fine going .040 over.
Not .5(or 1/2" ) over.

my new pistons are .020 over... im not planning on going .040 over. ive got 2 blocks, so between the two of them, hopefully one hasnt been machined yet

 

[88supraFAST1]

i always bore if possible, you better hope that other block is still a virgin.

 

[Toy-Rific]

my new pistons are .020 over... im not planning on going .040 over. ive got 2 blocks, so between the two of them, hopefully one hasnt been machined yet

If you don't have a way to check the bore size, try using the new pistons to see it they are smaller, larger or the same size as what is in the block now. This may help you to get a quick answer.
Greg

 

[88supraFAST1]

WOW your funny dude thats so hard to even tell the diffrence

 

[Toy-Rific]

WOW your funny dude thats so hard to even tell the diffrence

May be your scale is only in 1/8" steps but I for sure can tell the differance using this way. Keep only one eye open if that helps you.
So try this and let the readers know if it works for you.

 

[sneakypete]

If you don't have a way to check the bore size, try using the new pistons to see it they are smaller, larger or the same size as what is in the block now. This may help you to get a quick answer.
Greg

thanks greg.... ive never even thought about trying that. thats a great idea. if the new piston fits inside the cylinder, i can assume that the block wont work for me?
-pete

 

[7MGTEsup]

thanks greg.... ive never even thought about trying that. thats a great idea. if the new piston fits inside the cylinder, i can assume that the block wont work for me?

pete

Affirmative, if it fits it means you already have an over bore of at least 0.020"

 

[sneakypete]

im about to pull my motor out now.... but i have a problem. my cylinder head is at the shop and as far as i know, the head has to be on the block for you to lift it. how else, or what mounting points can i attach the hoist to?
also, how can i remove the crank bolt? the car is in gear and ive got a breaker bar, but its still spinning. everything is disconnected so i cant crank the car with a breaker bar on.
thanks
-pete

 

[jdub]

The way I would do it is use two short lengths of chain across the front/rear corners secured with M12x1.25 bolts. Go to the hardware store and get some about 3/4" longer than the threads on a head bolt and a couple washers each. Bolt the chain in this sequence: washers, through chain, bolts. You don't want to use head bolts, they are too long.

I would wait to remove the crank bolt till the engine is out. You can block the crank with a 2x4 and break the bolt loose with an impact gun or long breaker bar.

 

[sneakypete]

the stablizer i bought that hooks up to the hoist has 4 short chains with 90 degree metal tabs that look like they should be bolted to the surface of the block (or head). i want to hook it up like that so it would be more stable, but im worried that since i dont have the head on there, i might damage the threads of block.

 

[jdub]

If a M12x1.25 bolt will fit through the tabs, it will work. Put washers under the tabs to protect the deck. You will need 4 M12x1.25 the right length to fully seat the tabs against the washers. Like I said, don't use head bolts...they are way too long and can put a lateral stress on the bolt holes, causing damage to them. If you bolt the tabs down snug with washers under them, it will be fine.

 

[sneakypete]

i just checked out three auto parts stores, autozone only had two bolts in stock. not sure what else to do. i dont have any m12 x 1.25 bolts.
so it would be a bad idea to use two arps and two bolts?
i guess ill check a few places tomorrow.
-pete

 

[jdub]

Pete - Go to Ace or TrueValue hardware

 

[sneakypete]

unfortunatly there are no Ace or Truevalues near me. tomorrow i will go to napa.... they will definetely have it.
-pete

 

[soapra]

Hello Pete,

I've looked at your pictures, and it seems that the block that is in the car rgiht now is bore to a 0.75 over bore. The number on top of the piston tells your the size of the piston.

Here is your picture again.

I would use the other block you have. If that is the case, I wouldn't bother with the method that you pull that block out, I would just get it out! :biglaugh:

-Jose

 

[sneakypete]

yea at this point it doesnt matter with this block. im in no rush since ive got to find a new block anyway.
anyone have an extra block in good condition that you want to sell? hahaha
-pete