Oil? Does anything really bad happen if you have the oil level above full?
- Thread starter H-Dogg
- Start date
Well... if you had 1qt over, it would help the car from running low on oil.
You know, since there's 1qt more oil in there. :icon_conf
You know, since there's 1qt more oil in there. :icon_conf
OneJoeZee said:
LOL, I know that but would it be a good Idea to do as a preventative measure or just a waste of money.:biglaugh:
CTsupra
Supramania Contributor
I'm running 7qts of 5w-30 Royal Purple, right now. 2500 miles and not a problem. Perfect Tsrm oil pressure spec. I have at least another 2500 before I need to change. Thinking of switching to Amsoil next.
Running a quart over the full mark on the dipstick is not going to harm the motor. It will not cause seals to blow/leak and will not be high enough in the pan where the crank will "churn" the oil.
It will help keep the pump pick-up covered...like what can happen in hard turns/breaking. And add a little "fudge factor" if you forget to check your oil every week (a MUST on this motor)...especially if you are burning a bit of oil or have a leak.
D34 - burning a 1/2 a quart every 3000 miles is within what would be "normal" for the 7M, even on a new motor.
CT - Give Pennzoil Platinum a try. Or go with Red Line is cost is less of a factor. Both are better than RP oil and are the equal (or better) than Amsoil. You can go 8K miles easy on either...use a Wix or PureOne filter and change at the 4K point, with a add to replace the oil lost in the filter.
It will help keep the pump pick-up covered...like what can happen in hard turns/breaking. And add a little "fudge factor" if you forget to check your oil every week (a MUST on this motor)...especially if you are burning a bit of oil or have a leak.
D34 - burning a 1/2 a quart every 3000 miles is within what would be "normal" for the 7M, even on a new motor.
CT - Give Pennzoil Platinum a try. Or go with Red Line is cost is less of a factor. Both are better than RP oil and are the equal (or better) than Amsoil. You can go 8K miles easy on either...use a Wix or PureOne filter and change at the 4K point, with a add to replace the oil lost in the filter.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
Mario: Yes it helps as if you burn 1/2 a qt you still have another 1/2 left OVER stockD34DC311 said:
If you burn 1/2 a qt you're 1/2 UNDER stock then all it takes is a long corner like an on ramp or a hard stop at speed and the oil sloshes away from the pickup and your 7M is knock knock knocking on heavens door
IJ. said:Mario: Yes it helps as if you burn 1/2 a qt you still have another 1/2 left OVER stock
If you burn 1/2 a qt you're 1/2 UNDER stock then all it takes is a long corner like an on ramp or a hard stop at speed and the oil sloshes away from the pickup and your 7M is knock knock knocking on heavens door
Ohh soooo damn true. Especially if you are not the type to check your oil. I took me a while to understand that little but very important detail. It only took 2 rod knocks in my old red N/A back in 2002 and 2003 to force me to learn to check my oil every fill up or at least once a week.
Better to have a bit more than less. Oil level doesn't effect pressure directly. As long as the suction screen is covered the motor doesn't "know" the level. That said a low level can effect temps and that can effect viscosity, which will can cause a minor decrease in pressure.
I run 6 quarts because the roll of toilet paper in my bypass filter sucks up one. That leaves 5 in the sump. Prior to that I ran for years with the 4.2 quarts my book says. Never a problem. Engine burns very little oil and doesn't leak a drop. I don't check it often because I've never seen a reason to do so.
Currently running Penn Plat 5-20 but I'll be trying something different soon. No brand loyalty here since GC disappeared. These days I buy whatever Grp 3 or better I can get on sale/rebate. Since modern oils are all good it doesn't matter and doing it makes for very cheap oil. Imo boutique oils are money down the drain.
Dub: Stop breaking your motor during hard turns
I run 6 quarts because the roll of toilet paper in my bypass filter sucks up one. That leaves 5 in the sump. Prior to that I ran for years with the 4.2 quarts my book says. Never a problem. Engine burns very little oil and doesn't leak a drop. I don't check it often because I've never seen a reason to do so.
Currently running Penn Plat 5-20 but I'll be trying something different soon. No brand loyalty here since GC disappeared. These days I buy whatever Grp 3 or better I can get on sale/rebate. Since modern oils are all good it doesn't matter and doing it makes for very cheap oil. Imo boutique oils are money down the drain.
Dub: Stop breaking your motor during hard turns
the OEM manufactures pushed all oils to be better, hence why even your cheapest oil is usually pretty good (you think wal-mart actually makes their own oil??)
They're all good, but some are better than others in the additives. Hell, even Red Line isn't THAT expensive especially since most synthetics will last far longer than old conventional oils.
A good oil filter seems to be more important these days (FRAM SUCKS)
They're all good, but some are better than others in the additives. Hell, even Red Line isn't THAT expensive especially since most synthetics will last far longer than old conventional oils.
A good oil filter seems to be more important these days (FRAM SUCKS)
Wally World SuperTech is made by Warren Oil. It's actually pretty decent oil. Bottom line is if an oil is an SL or SM rated Grp 3 or better it's fine for use in this car. And yeah, Frams suck but it's a question of value more than quality. Millions of people use the Orange Can O' Doom without problems. That said cut a new one open and look at how it's made compared to say, a PureOne. Scary.
jetjock said:
But they've got that damn handy grippy end!
That said, filters from my Toyota dealership aren't that expensive and I'm there all the freaking time for one part or another. I just want the grippy end on them. And yes, only hand tight when the go on.
Seems to me somebody makes one with a 3/8" ratchet end or something like that on the end of it? Remind me and I will switch from Toyota filters to whatever it is!
Well, the K&N has that big nut on it. Can't remember the last time I change my full flow filter. With a bypass filter the regular filter just plugs the hole and never gets anything in it. Stays on there a long time. If you want grippy use a piece of sandpaper in your hand to remove those tough ones. Works wonders
You said Wally World... Thats so funny... Me and my buddies call it that all the time...jetjock said:
Anyway, good info guys...
I think if drjonez were here (???), I think he'd say "has no one been listening"?
The great and wise dr has never let me down, and he says always run a quart or so extra. He ought to know he's pushed the 7m about as far (and beyond) as anyone.
Let's see... drjonez...or some clown who fucked up an oil change...
So...yeaaah.....I'm gonna have to...go ahead....aaaand...take his word for it.
The great and wise dr has never let me down, and he says always run a quart or so extra. He ought to know he's pushed the 7m about as far (and beyond) as anyone.
Let's see... drjonez...or some clown who fucked up an oil change...
So...yeaaah.....I'm gonna have to...go ahead....aaaand...take his word for it.
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i run my 87 turbo with an oil cap breather cause reving seems a little quicker, will this hurt the motor, will this cause my oil to evaporate or lose pressure? i thought the breather might help the oil stay cooler too.?
