Yeah. My V8s were faster than my Supra is ever going to be in the quarter mile, but I'm not building it for the quarter mile. I'm not building it to be faster, but it already is more fun.
not impressed...
- Thread starter 7M4EVR
- Start date
Lol at pic
Yeah the 57 trim hit quick and fast. It was the 60-1 that made me go t4. A ct26 is a limited air pump, once you reach max flow your done. I needed a bigger pump.
The standalone is simply to keep the engine safe and smooth. Stock ecu is an excellently engineered device but limited. Fooling it is fine up to a certain point. It's just not appropriate for 400+ whp IMO. For safety it hits pig rich and that's very limiting. They just goty 1000 cc injectors installed... I'm getting excited waiting to see what the car can do.
Yeah the 57 trim hit quick and fast. It was the 60-1 that made me go t4. A ct26 is a limited air pump, once you reach max flow your done. I needed a bigger pump.
The standalone is simply to keep the engine safe and smooth. Stock ecu is an excellently engineered device but limited. Fooling it is fine up to a certain point. It's just not appropriate for 400+ whp IMO. For safety it hits pig rich and that's very limiting. They just goty 1000 cc injectors installed... I'm getting excited waiting to see what the car can do.
Grandavi;1967235 said:
Just remember, 18 PSI on a 62mm is very different from 18 PSI on a 26 57. Where the 57 was like BAM then kind of dies getting higher in the revs, the 62 will be like a gradual build up then BAM with that same feeling til you shift.
Also, if you're on par with someone power wise that's running a big CI v8 or even a beefed up ls1, it'll be hard to run them down. They've got the instant power where ours builds, thing is though, we can always just turn up our power just a few numbers with a dial.
Yeah, I've driven a 73 Vette with a big block a long time ago. Was a hoot but very uncomfortable. Good for straight line speed, just found it stiff like it was wheels on steel rods. I don't think I could keep the wheels from spinning if this bigger turbo kicked like the ct26 did. I don't ever race off the line either, it's usually from 80 kph (roughly 45 mph). My first second shift can't be done fast.
Keep in mind the cars you're comparing the supra to are both big displacement NA cars with chassis that aren't nearly as good.
Basically, because they're loud and a bit scary to drive, they have more drama and feel faster.
It's why an old Miata feels like a rocket ship with the top down and the entire car screaming at you. It's a hard thing to quantify, but many of the fast European luxo=barg GT cars have the same issue, while being extremely fast...
Basically, because they're loud and a bit scary to drive, they have more drama and feel faster.
It's why an old Miata feels like a rocket ship with the top down and the entire car screaming at you. It's a hard thing to quantify, but many of the fast European luxo=barg GT cars have the same issue, while being extremely fast...
Since a lot of people in here are or have run the 57 trim CT26 with upgraded afm and injectors, I am wondering if anyone has had the problem of hitting fuel cut? I have the same swap with Brian Crower stage 2 cams and I am still hitting fuel cut around 3100 rpms if I am in third through fifth gear and it hesitates at the same rpm in first and second gear. I also have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and running the stock ecu with factory tune. Anyone have any ideas as to why I am hitting fuel cut still? I haven't installed my air/fuel ration gauge yet, but I am curious if anyone has had this problem before.
57 trim with stock intercooler, no issues. 60-1 and I hit fuel cut if I boosted over 12 psi with an upgraded intercooler.
ca91mkIII;1967826 said:
What PSI are you trying to get the 57 to run? My EBC had a brain fart once and it's spiked to like 21 PSI before, no fuel cut, I normally run mine from 16-18 PSI on high and wastegate pressure on low.
I had fuel cut on my 60-1 with the upgraded intercooler but Im not sure why. It would cut out right when the turbo spiked and then slap back on (kind of like a bang) and start pulling hard. I had to play with my boost controller to even it out and in the end, I couldn't boost 14 psi+ without that fuel cut issue. Its one of the main reasons I decided to go standalone. Annoying as hell.. lol
Weird. I was/am running 18 PSI on my T04 and never hit fuel cut (Even though I currently have a slight boost leak, I think from the HKS flange, as I wasn't able to replace the O ring under the BOV when I changed my IC piping over. My replacement has finally arrived from Suprastore, so I plan to do so this weekend. Only a couple weeks left of driving weather this year...
I realized shortly after I posted the first post that I forgot some information. I am running the fuel pressure at roughly 45 psi at idle. Not sure what it is when I'm doing a hard pull. I can't see the gauge. Secondly, I am only running 6 psi for breaking the engine in so I am almost certain that's not causing it.
I know it's a jump to conclusion answer, but seems like a boost leak to me if you are only running 6psi...
I could run 14-18 psi with my 57 Trim CT26 and stock intercooler.. no issues. It was when I added the 60-1 and upgraded the intercooler that things went wonky. Simple solution... T4.. standalone... done deal.
7M - The boost gauge would be fluctuating as the pressure bleeds off. It hits 6 psi and holds it until the engine hits fuel cut. The other thing is, how can a boost leak only be dramatic in the higher gears? What is a good pick up point for a boost gauge just so I can make sure that at least is correct?
I say go to the track and see what kind of time and mph your car does. If your 25 year old car is as quick and fast as a newest latest greatest "muscle" car then not to bad. Go get some data before you freak out. I love the turbo torque. As you get used to driving it, I don't see how you could get caught in the wrong gear during a street power play. Btw this after it runs right. Good luck.
350-400 will be PLENTY for your car. If not, it's not a huge deal to go to a T4 setup, assuming you already have the internals to withstand it.