I have been dealing with problems in my 1990 turbo for a while. There has been a long line of issues that started with rusty fuel tank and too much K&N oil on my air filter. Not sure I need to get into all that at this point. Right now I have codes 12, 14, 21, 41 & 51. Recently, I have not been able to start it. The battery reads 12.01. The igniter reads 0. I am a novice at all this. Will be trying to get a reading on other things today. Would appreciate some direction &/or input.
No start (spark?)...
- Thread starter astkgse
- Start date
Made more checks. Ignition coil connectors are reading 11.53. There is no continuity between the neg and pos on the coil. Manual says it should be .3-.5. Does that mean this should be replaced?
Correction on the igniter voltage. Was doing it wrong it is reading 11.53 at the 6p connector. Battery now is reading 11.71. Am trying to test the transistor in igniter but don't know how to apply voltage from a 3v dry cell. Anyone?
---------- Post added at 12:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 PM ----------
My cps figures for ne, g1 & g2 are each about 173-174. Mean anything?
---------- Post added at 12:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 PM ----------
My cps figures for ne, g1 & g2 are each about 173-174. Mean anything?
astkgse;1587089 said:
To produce 3vdc, use two batteries (AAA, AA, C, D) they are all 1.5vdc, so tape two of them in series and use a jumper wire from the positive on top battery and negative on the bottom battery and you now have 3vdc...
Your CPS readings are within range, TRSM says 140-180 ohms.
You are sure you are not getting a reading across your coil packs? Does it show mega ohms or OL as in open or infinity?
Thanks for the info on that 3v hook up. I have to run some errands for a few hours so will check a little later. My setting was off in reading for the coil. It is at 1.0 for all three.
Code 12 prevents starting. You don't have your pickup, as in engine position and speed, so injection is halted. Err, not started. A few people here have had age issues, and the wiring is bad.
Any feedback on that question? Am I out of luck? I did the spark test and definitely have no spark, hence code 12. Should I look at the ecu? scrap it?
Well, the proper diagnostic procedure is to use a scope on the output. If you have it, then check at the connector, and all the way back to the computer. Chances are, you will have lost it at the connector. The onse here I have read did a hard wire, and got rid of the quick disconnect. I wouldn't do it, but others did.
Not familiar with a scope but will research it. Can you give me a quick 411? I cleared the codes and the only one remaining is 51/air condition switch or neutral start switch. Might that be the culprit?
I've done my checks up to the Cam gaps and found the G1 flush with no gap. Based on tsrm it is bad. Anyone have one to get rid of or know of anyone with one? I need is no later than Wed. if possible.
Cam gaps? Do you mean air gaps on the CPS?
I know what you mean; but, it helps to be specific.
CPS Air Gaps are adjustable.
I know what you mean; but, it helps to be specific.
CPS Air Gaps are adjustable.
Thanks for your patience. Adjusted that. I still have no spark; codes remain 12 & 51. I am assuming I need now to adjust the timing but how do I adjust the timing w/o the car being on.
Nick M;1588086 said:
One more time. Do you have a way to check output? If you don't, find somebody else that does. Or you will end up swapping parts until you find the culprit.
Yea, I don't have a scope and don't know anyone with one. Seeing the price of one I am at the end of my rope. I don't have the cash to hang with it. Know anyone who might take this let me know. Thanks for your help and advice.
well, if it absolutley no spark this is how i fixed my same issue. it ended up being the white fusable links burnt out that go to the am1 and 100amp fuse.pull out the battery i think that one goes out quite often its two big white wires. what i did is i found the break,pulled it apart, stripped and soldered it back together, easy fix.
Have you checked all wiring from CPS, TPS, Coil packs, Ignitor, etc.? No cracks at all in any insulation?
Have you read the TSRM troubleshooting section?
This is the CPS plug. Any wires that look like this need to be repaired/replaced. This caused my engine to turn over without spark.
As you can see, the green wire is broken, hanging on by insulation only. No scope needed to perform these tests.
Have you read the TSRM troubleshooting section?
This is the CPS plug. Any wires that look like this need to be repaired/replaced. This caused my engine to turn over without spark.
As you can see, the green wire is broken, hanging on by insulation only. No scope needed to perform these tests.