What about the factory security system in the car? Could that be causing the problem I am having?
No spark, no start need advise
- Thread starter RTtim
- Start date
RTtim;1695993 said:
actually that happened to me just last week
just to be sure stick your key in the driver door and lock and unlock it that should turn off the alarm
SRZMK3;1695907 said:
Read the thread. It's impossible for you to have had the exact problem.
RTtim;1695993 said:
No, also not possible. I already told you what it could be. It's a simple matter of using the TEWD and a meter to find the problem. For not being a noob when it comes to cars you seem pretty lost...
Just because I ask a question out of curiosity doesn't mean I'm lost. Do you know everything about these cars? I dont that's why questions get asked. Thanks.
I have power to the efi fuse, the ignition fuse but the main relay does not click or anything. Any other ideas?
I am right about where you are.. I'm going to be checking a few things tomorrow.. quick question.. does your ecu at the BATT location have power? mine does not.. so im trying to find my problem..
wondering if the CPS is bad or has a broken connector, if it would cause no power at BATT on the ECU..
wondering if the CPS is bad or has a broken connector, if it would cause no power at BATT on the ECU..
If you have no power at BATT, then that is your problem. Strictly speaking, it will still run as long as you have power at B+ and IGSW, but since B+ gets its power from the same source as BATT, chances are its not going to run.
Power at IGSW is all you need to turn on the main relay, so even with no power at BATT you should hear the main relay click when you turn the key. If no click, then measure IGSW at the ecu, it should have 12V with the ignition turned on.
Power at IGSW is all you need to turn on the main relay, so even with no power at BATT you should hear the main relay click when you turn the key. If no click, then measure IGSW at the ecu, it should have 12V with the ignition turned on.
nsngarage;1696466 said:
No, it would not. That's plainly shown on the schematic. Why people don't use it is something that puzzles me, because there is no other class of problem the car can have where the solutions are so clearly spelled out.
jetjock;1696589 said:
I have a friend who can't read wiring schematics to save his life
And did you try the key in the door? ?? After i was done installing my most recent batch of parts my car would light up everything worked but it wouldnt start so I went through everything I could think of anddstarted to get frusterated and my buddy suggested my alarm might have gone off .... after attempting to start it one last time I got out locked andunlocked it with the key
.... got back in and fired it right up
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^ Something else the print clearly shows.
And whose fault is that? He probably know all about the lastest x-box, playstation, and smartphone though...
jdmfreak;1696599 said:
And whose fault is that? He probably know all about the lastest x-box, playstation, and smartphone though...
3p141592654;1696601 said:
Yeah but the origional poster hasn't yet checked if he is getting power to the ecu ... unless I missed something
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No I haven't checked yet. I had to work late and didn't have time to get to it. I will check tomorrow and let everyone know what happens.
I have a yellow plug car, can someone tell me what plug it is that's supposed to have batt voltage? I checked the diagram and if I am looking at it right it should be a black/yellow wire. Is this correct? Also what plug should that be on?
Black/yellow is correct. It's pin 2 on connector Q, which would be the 24 pin connector. This is the ECU "keep alive" power and should be 12 volts whenever the battery is installed and connected.