might be as simple as a ground, make sure everything's the way it should be...
the TSRM has all the grounds and their locations..
the TSRM has all the grounds and their locations..
No RPM, No Oil Pressure. No headlights?
- Thread starter Moy
- Start date
Yeah, Flateric is suggesting part of the problem could be the cluster ground on the crash support bar (metal beam behind dash). He said it was located behind the glovebox, but I cannot find it for some reason.
(As per Jeff Lange's advice) I've done continuity tests between pin D4 at the cluster and pin 7 on M1, for oil pressure, and was 0v and 0.L ohms on auto-range. Between pin 7 on M1 and the oil pressure sender connector there was 0v and a max of 5.0-5.7 ohms then came to settle at a constant 0.5 ohms
I just rechecked, and resistance went up to 1.8 ohms of resistance between M1 pin 7 and the sender connector. It's a constant 1.8 instead of fluctuations.
I plugged M1 back together and tested from pin D4 at the cluster to the sender connector and it is reading 1.8ohms.
I checked continuity between D4 and ground, using B-, both key on and off. Ohms = 0.L
(As per Jeff Lange's advice) I've done continuity tests between pin D4 at the cluster and pin 7 on M1, for oil pressure, and was 0v and 0.L ohms on auto-range. Between pin 7 on M1 and the oil pressure sender connector there was 0v and a max of 5.0-5.7 ohms then came to settle at a constant 0.5 ohms
I just rechecked, and resistance went up to 1.8 ohms of resistance between M1 pin 7 and the sender connector. It's a constant 1.8 instead of fluctuations.
I plugged M1 back together and tested from pin D4 at the cluster to the sender connector and it is reading 1.8ohms.
I checked continuity between D4 and ground, using B-, both key on and off. Ohms = 0.L
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http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BE&P=37
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like power comes from pins A8 and E3 to power the tachometer, then grounds through pin A6. Pins E1-3 are on the little white box on the back of the cluster, which seems to come in turbo cars only (didn't have one on my GE?).
Would not having this box installed cause my tachometer to not work?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like power comes from pins A8 and E3 to power the tachometer, then grounds through pin A6. Pins E1-3 are on the little white box on the back of the cluster, which seems to come in turbo cars only (didn't have one on my GE?).
Would not having this box installed cause my tachometer to not work?
Alright well I'm going to be swapping out a known working oil pressure sender for the one that's currently on the car. Will be a pain to try to remove, but I know that I can get it out of there. Even if I have to he-man the damn thing loose lol
If installing the new sensors and cleaning my grounds don't work, then I'll probably bite the bullet and buy some ProSport gauges and retrofit them into the cluster. I did a 2 minute mock-up with my 52mm boost gauge and it fits pretty well. I'll just need to trim down some stuff. Maybe paint the white plastic on the back to black (on the inside) and be done with it.
I hope the sensors work
If installing the new sensors and cleaning my grounds don't work, then I'll probably bite the bullet and buy some ProSport gauges and retrofit them into the cluster. I did a 2 minute mock-up with my 52mm boost gauge and it fits pretty well. I'll just need to trim down some stuff. Maybe paint the white plastic on the back to black (on the inside) and be done with it.
I hope the sensors work
Moy;1577660 said:Alright well I'm going to be swapping out a known working oil pressure sender for the one that's currently on the car. Will be a pain to try to remove, but I know that I can get it out of there. Even if I have to he-man the damn thing loose lol
If installing the new sensors and cleaning my grounds don't work, then I'll probably bite the bullet and buy some ProSport gauges and retrofit them into the cluster. I did a 2 minute mock-up with my 52mm boost gauge and it fits pretty well. I'll just need to trim down some stuff. Maybe paint the white plastic on the back to black (on the inside) and be done with it.
I hope the sensors work
Can you not ground the oil pressure sender wire to see if the gauge works like I suggested? It's at least worth a shot.
whitemike;1577664 said:
Forgot to post that up there. Yes Mike, I will do that.
Just to let you know though, I've used two different sets of gauges, with one set that was working pre-swap
But I shall do this test as a means to cross that off the list for sure
it's not hard at all to swap out gauges, it's literally held on with 2 screws, just take out the cluster and have at it with a screw driver, you need to remove the vents and a few small outer screws, but it pops right out..
So I tested the gauges by connecting my test light's clip to B+ and touched the lead to the sensor's pin on the harness side, with KOEO, and both the oil pressure and water temperature gauges moved toward the high side (as per TSRM specifications)
Only thing left is the sensors. I've sprayed the oil pressure sender's threads with PB Blaster to try to get some lubrication between the threads. I'm able to sneak a 14mm wrench in the space, but feel like I'm rounding off the nut...
---------- Post added at 02:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:53 PM ----------
Haha, I've taken apart my cluster probably 5 different times during all of this. But thanks for the advice
Only thing left is the sensors. I've sprayed the oil pressure sender's threads with PB Blaster to try to get some lubrication between the threads. I'm able to sneak a 14mm wrench in the space, but feel like I'm rounding off the nut...
---------- Post added at 02:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:53 PM ----------
RazoE;1577695 said:
Haha, I've taken apart my cluster probably 5 different times during all of this. But thanks for the advice
Well I've narrowed it down to the sensors, am still trying to get the oil pressure sender out. I'm probably going to end up using an adjustable pipe wrench on the fitting to make sure I have a firm connection.
For water temperature, if I have to drain the liquid inside the cooling system and remove the sensor anyways, I may as well upgrade to a ProSport premium water temp gauge, which I'll be using the factory wiring for
For the headlights. I'm going to swap out bulbs to see if that makes a difference. I doubt it will.
Where are the grounds, and the fusible links for the headlights?
I'm praying that I didn't blow one of the fusible links. That would be a pain to replace. I'll also be checking the relay that controls the illumination for the headlights. If I jumper power to ground through the relay, it should light the headlights. So if it does that, the relay should be replaced, yes? (I'm going off of what I remember from my electrical classes)
For water temperature, if I have to drain the liquid inside the cooling system and remove the sensor anyways, I may as well upgrade to a ProSport premium water temp gauge, which I'll be using the factory wiring for
For the headlights. I'm going to swap out bulbs to see if that makes a difference. I doubt it will.
Where are the grounds, and the fusible links for the headlights?
I'm praying that I didn't blow one of the fusible links. That would be a pain to replace. I'll also be checking the relay that controls the illumination for the headlights. If I jumper power to ground through the relay, it should light the headlights. So if it does that, the relay should be replaced, yes? (I'm going off of what I remember from my electrical classes)
Did a spark test today to see if my ignitor could be the issue why I'm not getting a tach signal, and I had no spark.
I have a green plug ignitor coming in a couple of days to check to see if that will rectify my issue with the tach.
I was also able to switch out my oil pressure sender. When I pulled it out and looked into the port, there was no oil on the walls, so I'm not sure if I was even building any pressure?
I have a green plug ignitor coming in a couple of days to check to see if that will rectify my issue with the tach.
I was also able to switch out my oil pressure sender. When I pulled it out and looked into the port, there was no oil on the walls, so I'm not sure if I was even building any pressure?
Update on issue: I believe my oil gauge is working now. Before I switched out the sender, the needle was pegged below zero. With the known working sender in, it is sitting at maybe 1-2psi.
(KOEO)
For my headlights issue: I clipped my test light to ground and probed each terminal on the harness side of the bulb connector and got no continuity. I then clipped the test light to B+ and probed the terminals and had continuity at each terminal, meaning each terminal had ground present.
I also continuity tested the headlight fuses and both had continuity. I am getting suspicious of the headlight control relay being faulty.
If it is, does anyone know how much they are new from Toyota?
(KOEO)
For my headlights issue: I clipped my test light to ground and probed each terminal on the harness side of the bulb connector and got no continuity. I then clipped the test light to B+ and probed the terminals and had continuity at each terminal, meaning each terminal had ground present.
I also continuity tested the headlight fuses and both had continuity. I am getting suspicious of the headlight control relay being faulty.
If it is, does anyone know how much they are new from Toyota?
Fixed my headlight issue!
Now I need to figure out why my gauges aren't working. I swapped in a different (known working) ignitor, and my Tach needle dropped below zero when I tried to crank the car.
I had my ECU unplugged when I did this, I forgot to plug it back in...
Also oil pressure STILL is not reading...
Now I need to figure out why my gauges aren't working. I swapped in a different (known working) ignitor, and my Tach needle dropped below zero when I tried to crank the car.
I had my ECU unplugged when I did this, I forgot to plug it back in...
Also oil pressure STILL is not reading...
