Just tore down my JDM "low mileage" that trashed a rod bearing within 100 miles of changing to synthetic oil. The rod bearing for # 1 was entirely gone (remnants in the pan) and I've built many engines but this is the first time I've found the bearing entirely gone. Usually the spun bearing is melted down the rod cap and this engine went from no knock to small knock to big knock in 10 miles or less. I'm new to the 7m and wonder if this engine normally thrashes # 1 first? Engine was running well just prior and showing 20psi oil at hot idle and better than 10psi per 1k rpm. I am hoping to avoid a full tear down by doing crank and new oil pump and checking #1 rod big end and wonder if I can pull #1 piston down enough to remove rod from bottom end (I haven't looked to see if this is possible yet). I have so much in this project (son's car) I wish to avoid the expense of total rebop, but am seeking expert advice and might actually follow it! Thanks for any and all comments. RF
no rod bearing on # 1
- Thread starter rustfarmer
- Start date
Got to turn that motor off as soon as any knock sound is heard. I hate to say this, but you can try to just repair the damaged parts and see what happens, but I think in the near future you will be doing it again. Now that the rod bearing has come apart, you will find metal particals through out the entire motor. They will bed themselves in the other bearings and the cams as well. For your quick repair, you will want to change all the bearings and clean out everything that you can. You will prob have to re-finish that #1 journal also.
I would suggest a full tear down, but if you don't mind throwing the dice, the quick fix may work.
I would suggest a full tear down, but if you don't mind throwing the dice, the quick fix may work.
rustfarmer;1656495 said:
Rod/piston is not removable from the bottom. Head has to come off to remove it. More than likely the rod is out of round as well.
Sounds like 'son' is not telling the whole story here.......
Something like 'there was oil leaking after the change, but I didn't bother checking it'.
Seems like 'son' should do the engine pull, so that he learns how critical fluids are.
(just my opinion of course, having seen this before when little ones are handed a car)
Something like 'there was oil leaking after the change, but I didn't bother checking it'.
Seems like 'son' should do the engine pull, so that he learns how critical fluids are.
(just my opinion of course, having seen this before when little ones are handed a car)
Thanks to everyone for your responses and now that I have the crank out I can see that the #1 rod does have damage and must come out = pull the head. At this stage a complete overhaul is the only way to go so now I need to do my homework on parts choices. Seems as though my local machine shop never finds a block good enough to hone and re-ring with the same pistons, so if I'm boring the block and replacing them I'll want to plan for more boost than stock but nothing to wild as this is purely street driven. My turbo shop says 11 pounds is safe with stock parts, but I will read everything I can find here before making any choices. Any help finding the best info for this type of "stage 1" build is most welcome. Love this forum and thanks again for helping a newbie stupid enough to ask if I can pull a piston from the bottom. I have actually done this on some other engine in the past but I agree that patching a sick engine usually is not wise.
People have pushed 20+ psi on stock motor (Obviously not a stock turbo) near 500HP.. I personally run 14 lbs on the stock turbo and engine, many many many... other people have done it as well.
Off the top of my head, make sure the head gets machined, MLS head gasket would be recommended, but stock will be fine. ARP head studs torqued to 75-85 lbs (I would stay closer to the 75 end of that range personally). Front timing case needs to be machined with the block. Do not use an E-bay head gasket. While the motor is out you definitely want to replace the gaskets for the EGR cooler and valve as they are a PITA with it in the car. On stock AFM 11 PSI is about all you will get before fuel cut, maybe a little more on cold days. I was fuel cutting at around 10 PSI, but that was on the stock gauge so its probably off. Good luck!
-AM3
-AM3
Another MkIII;1657138 said:
Just adding a little!
If you are going with a metal hg make sure that the head is surfaced to the proper ra, also make sure the proper amount is taken off. The previous owner didn't do this on my head and now I f***ed!
Also remember whatever you take off to make up for in hg thickness to keep stock compression ratio. Good luck and I hope all goes well!
+1 on the above post
I meant to defer to someone who had MLS HG experience. I went with stock, and it is the biggest regret I have from my rebuild.
-AM3
I meant to defer to someone who had MLS HG experience. I went with stock, and it is the biggest regret I have from my rebuild.
-AM3
Because for a couple hundred more, I could have gone with an MHG, and I plan to go bigger eventually so I'll have to change it eventually. Plus, I believe overkill is under rated.
-AM3
-AM3
Another MkIII;1657138 said:
Sorry OP, don't mean to go off track but would like to make a comment...
Be careful of making such generic statements as above... There are numerous reputable Ebay stores that sell HKS, Greddy, Comitech etc... This also goes for other reputable types of parts (auto and other) and manufactures. You want to pay attention to all detailed descriptions to insure that it is not a knockoff (manufacture part #'s for example), also look at number of transactions by seller and their rating... I will not buy from someone with less than 99% positive...
To OP - do some searching on here, but there have been some other threads in regards to which gaskets and seals to make sure are purchased from Toyota... The EGR cooler which was mentioned in post#7 is one of those...
I have nothing against name brands like that when they are on Ebay, its a poor word choice on my part, but when I say "Ebay Head gasket", I am referring to all the low quality knock off brands that are sold only on Ebay. I don't mean for it to include reliable, quality parts sold by reputable sellers. Sorry for the confusion.gottadiesel;1657277 said:
-AM3
1 if you use metal hg machine both block AND head to 30ra or better.
2 if you use arp hardware, they come with torque sheets for use with oil, dry, and arp moly grease, use what appkys to the sheet not a guess. usually 80 ftlbs. Some newer ones are 90 because of of the newer moly grease.(i caled them not too long ago as i have a 80 ft lb set and a buddy has a 90 ft lb set) No arp set is 75ftbs.
3 if you rod knocked that bad do a full rebuild.
2 if you use arp hardware, they come with torque sheets for use with oil, dry, and arp moly grease, use what appkys to the sheet not a guess. usually 80 ftlbs. Some newer ones are 90 because of of the newer moly grease.(i caled them not too long ago as i have a 80 ft lb set and a buddy has a 90 ft lb set) No arp set is 75ftbs.
3 if you rod knocked that bad do a full rebuild.
Use only an OEM EGR cooler gasket from the dealer. It's a metallic gasket that can take the heat, unlike the fiber gaskets used in most gasket sets (felpro even uses fiber). It will NOT last and replacing that gasket with the engine in the car is a nightmare. Not to mention it's hot exhaust gasses right below your wiring harness and around coolant lines...
Really? I didn't know that. Mine were on the car when I bought it and most people here told me 75.hvyman;1657318 said:
-AM3
Never seen bolts but every stud should be at least 80.
I agree with poodles except iirc the cheap gasket kit that dm has has a good cooler gasket.
I agree with poodles except iirc the cheap gasket kit that dm has has a good cooler gasket.
I called ARP when I was doing my build and they told me 90Ft lbs with moly lube, 130 ft lbs with Gear oil.. I am running 90 ft lbs with ARP's on a felpro head gasket, Torqued them to 85 ft lbs and did a re-toruqe to 90ft lbs after letting gasket settle over night. Im at 12-14 lbs now, no problems here 
Edit: I have bolts by the way, They are not studs.. 2033902 12 POINT HEAD is the part number I told ARP
---------- Post added at 11:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 AM ----------
By the way, 11PSI is about the fuel cut on stock AFM with out tuning or moding the AFM.. And as Another MKIII posted above about running more PSI on colder days is completely opposite.. Colder days air will be denser and the AFM will see more Airflow through the meter.. With tune and the AFM mod I am running 13lbs on cold days with no fuel cut.
Edit: I have bolts by the way, They are not studs.. 2033902 12 POINT HEAD is the part number I told ARP
---------- Post added at 11:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 AM ----------
By the way, 11PSI is about the fuel cut on stock AFM with out tuning or moding the AFM.. And as Another MKIII posted above about running more PSI on colder days is completely opposite.. Colder days air will be denser and the AFM will see more Airflow through the meter.. With tune and the AFM mod I am running 13lbs on cold days with no fuel cut.
Yeah I reread my post and actually thought for a half second and realized how retarded I went there, lol. My bad.Devin LeBlanc;1657470 said:I called ARP when I was doing my build and they told me 90Ft lbs with moly lube, 130 ft lbs with Gear oil.. I am running 90 ft lbs with ARP's on a felpro head gasket, Torqued them to 85 ft lbs and did a re-toruqe to 90ft lbs after letting gasket settle over night. Im at 12-14 lbs now, no problems here
Edit: I have bolts by the way, They are not studs.. 2033902 12 POINT HEAD is the part number I told ARP
---------- Post added at 11:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:18 AM ----------
By the way, 11PSI is about the fuel cut on stock AFM with out tuning or moding the AFM.. And as Another MKIII posted above about running more PSI on colder days is completely opposite.. Colder days air will be denser and the AFM will see more Airflow through the meter.. With tune and the AFM mod I am running 13lbs on cold days with no fuel cut.
-AM3