hvyman;1657318 said:1 if you use metal hg machine both block AND head to 30ra or better.
2 if you use arp hardware, they come with torque sheets for use with oil, dry, and arp moly grease, use what appkys to the sheet not a guess. usually 80 ftlbs. Some newer ones are 90 because of of the newer moly grease.(i caled them not too long ago as i have a 80 ft lb set and a buddy has a 90 ft lb set) No arp set is 75ftbs.
3 if you rod knocked that bad do a full rebuild.
I want to talk about this some more also. HVYMAN is right on with the ARP. No one should ever be telling anyone what to torque their ARP head studs too other than ARP. As HVYMAN said, ARP has changed the moly in the kits several times over the last 6 or 7 years. Depending on how old your kit is, and which moly lube packet is in the box, your torque rating will be different. All kits now come with a spec sheet inside that specifies the tensile strenght, diameter, and the torque rating clearly listed.
Older kits do not have a spec sheet inside, and you often would have to look at the chart on the rear of the box which was a little generic. New kits will have a blue moly pack, older kits have a white moly pack.
Poodles;1657334 said:Use only an OEM EGR cooler gasket from the dealer. It's a metallic gasket that can take the heat, unlike the fiber gaskets used in most gasket sets (felpro even uses fiber). It will NOT last and replacing that gasket with the engine in the car is a nightmare. Not to mention it's hot exhaust gasses right below your wiring harness and around coolant lines...
Poodles - Some bad news, but the last 3 or 4 master rebuild gaskets sets I used from Toyota had paper gaskets. I also purchased some individuals, and they too was paper. The new supplier for toyota maybe going a little cheaper? If you see any new metal armor ones, better snatch them up. Been thinking to produce some EGR gaskets from copper or stainless shim because of this.