Hey all, Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I'm having problems again!
The original engine that was in the car suffered of rod knock a few weeks later, anyway another engine was sourced and installed, this came from a JDM 89 Manual Turbo. During the install process I had replaced most stock black rubber hoses with red silicone ones, 10 piece Samco silicone kit was apart of that. Bought new plugs (BCPR6EP N-8) along with some Blueprint leads, Mr.T stat, coolant, oil filter + 10w40 Semi oil, Replaced all the belts and cambelt with Mr.T ones.
How the engine from a glance looks now:
Installed a Schrader valve: (fuel Results yielded with in TSRM)
Sorted out the A/C whilst I was at it.
NO Fault codes present.
Now the fault is only when the car is at operating temps and after a few WOT pulls, The car will start and idle perfectly at any time regardless of temp, and at cruising speeds will be perfect, BUT when accelerating hard the car will have similar symptoms to that of a "fuel cut". It doesn't feel like a misfire so to speak but more of ALL power being cut, and its not uni-formal (Ie. every say 2 seconds it will jerk/splutter, more like ---> "-------___--__-------___-_--_-_") This is also regardless of boost levels (6-10 p.s.i).
The car will drive perfectly when warming up, say electric fans have kicked in (Siemans twin fans wired into stock A/C condenser fan power supply), but when at true operating temp it will have the problem.
I can get it to show a similar fault when under the hood, if I hold the throttle linkage at say 3250rpm and back off slightly to say 2500rpm, the engine will bog (drop to about 1500rpm) and then resume 2500rpm, but its only when I alter throttle position.
Other Mods include, 3" downpipe (stock elbow still on car - new one not yet fitted) 2.75"
Decat pipe back to stock muffler (HKS rear can to be fitted still)
K&N Intake Filter
HKS BOV.
I have re-calibrated the TPS (as per TSRM) as well as use one from another working 7M-GTE, tried another full set of coils and igniter off another working car. The only part I can't confirm in working condition is the spare AFM, it bench tested correctly (TSRM test) but this is never always a true test. EFI temp sensor was replaced with new from Mr. T.
The engine pulls a strong vac (steady 21"Hg idle, 21"Hg - 2"Hg -24"Hg - 21"Hg on a throttle blip) This was tested via the pre-installed gauge in the car and a Snap-on vacuum gauge.
No coolant loss, not burning oil (tiny bit of blue smoke on cold start-up if left for a few days) And not engine temps are good.
This engine has never run right from day one, and has been ongoing for the past 2 years. It was taken into a "tuning shop" and put down 246hp with 244 Lb-Tq (Not wheel power @ 8 P.S.I) I had been told that it was running fine but soon as a road test was done, it had the same fault. It was later returned and yet he couldn't find the fault, He told me to put the cat back on as the o2 sensor was unable to read correctly, and that the EGR must be put back on, however being a JDM version it never had EGR and still had the same fault with the cats in place + I am 99% certain that both items aren't used at WOT?
Dyno print out... Just before it left the shop, he did mention that fuelling was all over the place, this was only after I had to get answers on why he had told me the car was running "Perfect" on two separate occasions.
So I'm at a total loss on ideas... What do you think?
Matt.
