new G-tech numbers in and very disaponted

[91T breezen']

yes I have wieghed it and leveled it correctly.

well I did another couple runs today and the best I could do was 16.05@91mph

This was before the car managed to heat up. I noticed once the car has heated up it runs like shit and doesn't go very well. Also when I got back and poped the hood I could hear my raditor sizzling and steam was coming out of the resvior. I figure it might be low on fluid so im goign to top it up here soon and then c how she runs. DO u think that this could be the causes of my car running like this and such low times???

You could have the dreaded BHG already. :cry: Hearing your coolant boiling off, and seeing steam out of the reservoir are not good things with the 7M! :nono: Do you have a mhg and ARP studs already? If you don't, you might want to pull off the head and check for the bhg. If it's toast, you will have to address that problem first, before you do any other mods.

 

[Xtreme]

Of course, if you don't have a mhg, and you pull the head off to check for BHG, then you ruin the gasket and have to replace it anyway. Be sure before you go ripping off the top of your engine.

 

[doom26464]

Of course, if you don't have a mhg, and you pull the head off to check for BHG, then you ruin the gasket and have to replace it anyway. Be sure before you go ripping off the top of your engine.

I dunno if its a BHG already The temperature gauge stays pretty low and I figure it might be from the wrong mixture of coolant causing it too boil too much. If I go to get new spark plugs and wires I will get a compresion check done just to make sure.


Already the feeling to just sell it and get something else is building inside, Hopefully that feeling goes away as I don't want to give up on the car yet.

 

[Xtreme]

they are great cars, they just need a little fixin. Get a shop to check for exhaust gasses in the cooling system, check for water in the oil, just do the general stuff. If your coolant level is not dropping, and your car doesn't ever get hot, chances are it's not a bhg.

 

[Adjuster]

I'm with Xtreme on that one. If your not boosting the heck out of the stock HG, and not running lean causing detonation, you should be fine on the stock HG.

Now the lecture:
1) Don't run low on oil. (Great way to ruin your motor. Almost EVERY rod knock problem I know of was the result of low oil. And it only takes being about one quart low to create a problem. You can run one quart over full, and not have any ill effects at all. so why not run 6 quarts in yours?)

2) Get new plug wires, plugs and make sure you gap your plugs. I like to run mine at .28 because they don't misfire at high RPM and boost.

3) Ditch the 2.5" exhaust. It's a very limiting factor, and will cause your engine to run hotter than it should have to, and be slower as well. (The best setup is 3" from the turbo back to the tailpipe. No stock elbow's need apply, no cats if you don't have to run them for emmisions.)

4) Flush out all the coolant in your system, and replace it with new. (Mix it right, 50% or 70% depending on how cold it get's where you live, I like a 70% mix myself, but have found 50% is fine. I also use the 100 mile/5 year coolant. It is not much more, and works better to protect your motor longer, so It's worth it.) I found taking out the radiator completely and flushing it out with a hose is a great way to clean it. Also your going to find a huge garbage dump of leaves, dog hair, bugs and other crap stuck to the radiator. I've actually seen MK3's with a huge "lint" mat of this crap that were suffering from cooling problems, and after it was cleaned out, no more problems. Easy fix, and it's free. (You just have to do the labor.)

Radiator, fan and shroud come out nice and easy if you have a friend help you. Take off the upper and lower hoses, any trans cooler lines if your an auto, and remove the 4 nuts on the fan. Then slip the fan off the water pump, and lift the entire thing out at the same time. (Radiator/shroud and fan) You are going to also need to unhook the electrical fan plug on the engine side. Take care not to lift by the shroud. Lift the radiator, and leave the shroud bolted to it untill you get it out of the car.
When your done, replace any foam that is gone, or torn. (Home Depot sells closed cell weatherstrip, use the good stuff, and you don't have to replace it again.) Figure about 9.00 USD or less. The cheap stuff works, but wears out and absorbs crap because it's open cell. The good stuff is smooth on the outside.

Good luck, and you should only need to do the compression check if you think after you do the tune up that there is a problem. (You need a warm motor anyway, and a fresh battery, or charger hooked up to your battery when your doing the compression test.)

 

[doom26464]

I'm with Xtreme on that one. If your not boosting the heck out of the stock HG, and not running lean causing detonation, you should be fine on the stock HG.

Now the lecture:
1) Don't run low on oil. (Great way to ruin your motor. Almost EVERY rod knock problem I know of was the result of low oil. And it only takes being about one quart low to create a problem. You can run one quart over full, and not have any ill effects at all. so why not run 6 quarts in yours?)

2) Get new plug wires, plugs and make sure you gap your plugs. I like to run mine at .28 because they don't misfire at high RPM and boost.

3) Ditch the 2.5" exhaust. It's a very limiting factor, and will cause your engine to run hotter than it should have to, and be slower as well. (The best setup is 3" from the turbo back to the tailpipe. No stock elbow's need apply, no cats if you don't have to run them for emmisions.)

4) Flush out all the coolant in your system, and replace it with new. (Mix it right, 50% or 70% depending on how cold it get's where you live, I like a 70% mix myself, but have found 50% is fine. I also use the 100 mile/5 year coolant. It is not much more, and works better to protect your motor longer, so It's worth it.) I found taking out the radiator completely and flushing it out with a hose is a great way to clean it. Also your going to find a huge garbage dump of leaves, dog hair, bugs and other crap stuck to the radiator. I've actually seen MK3's with a huge "lint" mat of this crap that were suffering from cooling problems, and after it was cleaned out, no more problems. Easy fix, and it's free. (You just have to do the labor.)

Radiator, fan and shroud come out nice and easy if you have a friend help you. Take off the upper and lower hoses, any trans cooler lines if your an auto, and remove the 4 nuts on the fan. Then slip the fan off the water pump, and lift the entire thing out at the same time. (Radiator/shroud and fan) You are going to also need to unhook the electrical fan plug on the engine side. Take care not to lift by the shroud. Lift the radiator, and leave the shroud bolted to it untill you get it out of the car.
When your done, replace any foam that is gone, or torn. (Home Depot sells closed cell weatherstrip, use the good stuff, and you don't have to replace it again.) Figure about 9.00 USD or less. The cheap stuff works, but wears out and absorbs crap because it's open cell. The good stuff is smooth on the outside.

Good luck, and you should only need to do the compression check if you think after you do the tune up that there is a problem. (You need a warm motor anyway, and a fresh battery, or charger hooked up to your battery when your doing the compression test.)

I don't think there nothing worng with the rad my friend about a month ago already did a good flush on it. As for the spark plugs and wires this is proably where im guessing its at. But I figure if im goign to have to do the plugs and wires might as well do a compression check too. If not my next guess is boost leak but i have no idea how to fix that even. :cry:

 

[Xtreme]

Boost leaks are commonly caused by cracked hoses in your intake system. You can pressurize your intake tract, or search for causes. Lower IC pipes and cracked accordian hoses seem to be the most common

 

[Adjuster]

If you have flushed your radiator, but still have a cooling problem, it's likely crap loaded up on the core. (Between the AC condensor, and the radiator.)

Only way to clean it out, is pull the radiator.

 

[bigaaron]

I just wanted to comment that the time the car "should" do and the time it "does" do are often greatly different. Just because road and track did xx.xx sec does not mean that any other person could make it do that. Those were professional drivers with brand new cars in top mechanical condition with perfect track conditions, and they did not care at all about breaking anything. I have seen plenty of 16-19sec passes from "modified" mk3 supras. When mine was making 300hp at the wheels the best I could do was 14.2sec at 102mph, and people were telling me "you should be in the low 13's", yeah right.

 

[CTsupra]

wow... post deletion. thanks.

 

[upgradedsupra]

:umno: :wtf:

That is a funny smiley LOL Still laughing.

G Tech in my experience have been off by a lil but close to a real time in the 1/4. Maybe a few tenths and a few hp.Go the track and you will find truth. :biglaugh: It also depends on driver. Are you at sea level? or close or what?

Duane

 

[doom26464]

well OK im not even going to think about g-teching the car now as it is offical fucked up. Not good! Well now under basiclly any boost it just runs like crap and u get this popopoopopoopo sound from the exuasht. At first the car had been running like a harly motorcycle but that was becauses I washed the engine bay due to my coolant explosion. SO after washing it, it ran like crap for awhile. SO now that its been about 2 days the water has evaporated and the engine runs smooth again, but under any boost it just starts to run bad and major loss of power under boost. It is also over boosting alot at times too. Its really shity right now. I have a video clip of it running under boost but I can't seem to host it on the supramania video site or any other video hosting sites. Some one help me I feal lost, my car has lost its go and now is running at the power level of a civic. :cry: :1zhelp: :3d_frown:

Also Another guess might be the shimming of the wastgate with 2 washers. I'm goign to try and remove that incase it is the problem(even still I best to go back to stock boost with the way its running)

 

[doom26464]

actually got some video footage. If u listen to the exuasht tone u can tell its doesn't sound right. Should have that nice wooooshhhh noise to it instead of the ppopopop sound to it:
http://www.zippyvideos.com/47243706606545.html

 

[SupraMario]

sounds like ur spark plugs are bad. my car like when idleing did the sounds like a V8, changed plugs nowit runs smooth again.

 

[Mk3 TurboS]

Dude not trying to nag but we all recommended changing your plugs and giving it a good service B4 you kept driving and doing pulls. You were the first to recommend it actually. Now it sound like somethings shit its self. I snapped a spark plug once and it sounded like a shithouse 454. It takes 10 mins. Pull the 3000 pipe and coil pack and change those sparkys. Good luck with whatever it is.

Also how did you have the coolent explosion?

 

[SupraMario]

rad pipe prolly blew or he burped his car and the bubles went everywhere.

 

[AGlobalThreat]

Dude not trying to nag but we all recommended changing your plugs and giving it a good service B4 you kept driving and doing pulls. You were the first to recommend it actually. Now it sound like somethings shit its self. I snapped a spark plug once and it sounded like a shithouse 454. It takes 10 mins. Pull the 3000 pipe and coil pack and change those sparkys. Good luck with whatever it is.

Also how did you have the coolent explosion?

I've read a few of dooms posts (He double posts CONSTANTLY on here/sf :icon_evil) and he definetely is not one for general maintenence so don't expect it. First he was asking how much hp his car was making, and now he's asking if a G-tech is accurate enough to trust. I still recall in the post asking about HP he recalled about a few problems, and that was a few weeks ago if not a month or more.

Doom I suggest you fix all of your problems and learn more before you worry about HP and ET.

 

[doom26464]

I've read a few of dooms posts (He double posts CONSTANTLY on here/sf :icon_evil) and he definetely is not one for general maintenence so don't expect it. First he was asking how much hp his car was making, and now he's asking if a G-tech is accurate enough to trust. I still recall in the post asking about HP he recalled about a few problems, and that was a few weeks ago if not a month or more.

Doom I suggest you fix all of your problems and learn more before you worry about HP and ET.

Im not worrying about hp anymore and I could care less any more. As for things getting fixed on the car I have moved a very far way on that. I keep a presonal check list. Everytime I fix something I mark down as fixed and then I have a list with things that need to be fixed. At first the list with things that need to be fixed was very very long now its starting to get small.
List looks something like this:
-get rust fixed on the back weel wheels
-remove the rusted panel where the window wipers go and place a new one
-stop the leaking(tranny speedo cable, and rear end)
-figure out why rear defrost doesn't work
-fix shifter boot
-fix trunk
-fix ebrake(was fixed but it broke again)
-fix leak in the trunk
Things I have manged to fixed or done:
-replaced all missing and blown fuses
-cleaned and re oil K&N filter
-cleaned the pcv pipes
-fixed power steering leak
-fixed rad leak and flushed rad
-Fixed fog lights
-fixed ciagrate lighter
Im pretty much busy working on the car like every single day.
And where do u come off telling me im not the one for general maintence??? I do oil changes every 5,000km, and the car uses nothing but pure preuim gas. I always replace things when they break or stop working. I always try to keep the car maintained. Its just there seems to be alot to do as the car was not cared for by previous owners, and with my current funds I can only do so much per month. And don't tell me to learn more I have been around on these forums for alot longer then you have. U seem to have quite the lip on u. Even with my supra running like shit it could still walk all over your POS n/a. Best to be carefull what you say or u can excpet hostile reactions.

Anyways.......Though I am goign to get around to replacing the spark plugs I just have a few q's.
1.) do I need new spark plug wires??? or will just new spark plugs do??
2.) how do I install them myslef?? don't u have to gap them(whatever that is :1zhelp: )
3.) is there a certain kind of spark plugs I should buy??
4.)mabye I should get a shop to install them???

 

[doom26464]

rad pipe prolly blew or he burped his car and the bubles went everywhere.

actually opening the cap when that car had just been running big mistake on my part.

 

[CTsupra]

1. yes
2. with common sense. go to your local auto store and ask for a spark plug gapping tool. self explanatory from there.
3. i forgot. search around.
4. no.

i'm beginning to think that a maybe a turbo isn't for you? build up a crazy stroked & nitroused n/a or something?