Okay my car had a timing issue a little bit ago and I fixed that, but now when I get on it, it does'nt have the get up and go it used to have what might be the problem????? I have an 87 7mge...
Need a little Help....
- Thread starter Big_Rob
- Start date
Lol... I intentionally put a "Timing Issue" in my car and it's the only reason it has ANY go... lol...
You're probably just not running it as rich as you used to be.
You're probably just not running it as rich as you used to be.
My timing belt completely shredded off, so I put a new one on and set the timing to 10 deg. I'll try to set it to 14-15 deg. and see what that does.
IJ. said:
WHAT?
last time i checked my timing i just used a timing light, hooked up as normal, i think as per TSRM...and/or timing light manual.
did i miss something?
you need to jump the diagnostic block with a paper clip or wire (as per the TSRM) when checking the timing so the ECU knows what the static (base) timing is correctly set. if you were to bump the timing up to say 15 degrees and the ECU think it's at say 5 degrees, you'd probably get some knocking problems as the ecu would advance/retard the timing thinking it's 10 degrees less than it actually is.
Okay I've read that before too you jump T1 and E1 and adjust the timing. In my case, the timing is exactly the same BOTH times. With T1 and E1 connected and with the jumper off also. So is something going wrong or could I be doing something wrong?
that's normal. The ECU (to my understanding) does not adjust static timing once warm. it would show no direct effect with it at idle between it plugged and not plugged, but could show issues when driving the car.
if you are following the TSRM's instructions, there shouldn't be an issue.
if you are following the TSRM's instructions, there shouldn't be an issue.
I guess doing it with the Jumper in place is telling the ECU that "This IS the new Static Timing" so it will relearn. (Where's JJ? I'm NOT an expert on the stock ECU as I've been standalone pretty well from the start)
Coolant temp must be past 176F when setting base timing using the diag box.
At idle, with coolant temp past 176F, timing will be advanced 3 degrees (timing light will read 13 degrees BTDC with diag box not jumpered) on a stock motor IF it's set correctly.
At idle, with coolant temp past 176F, timing will be advanced 3 degrees (timing light will read 13 degrees BTDC with diag box not jumpered) on a stock motor IF it's set correctly.
double check the cam timing.
-motor at TDC
-cam gears alligned on the correct dowels
-dots on cam gears aligned with dots on rear timing cover.
once you've double checked it, get a friend over to check it again. if your timing is correct, I suspect one of the gears is off a tooth, or the dowel pin is place incorrectly.
-motor at TDC
-cam gears alligned on the correct dowels
-dots on cam gears aligned with dots on rear timing cover.
once you've double checked it, get a friend over to check it again. if your timing is correct, I suspect one of the gears is off a tooth, or the dowel pin is place incorrectly.
Jumpering T and E removes all timing control from the ECU's microprocessor and routes it through the backup chip instead. In other words ESA is disabled. Once timing is set and control handed back to the MPU timing should advance. Also, it's not possible to set initial timing if IDL is open. If a code 51 is present you're wasting your time so to speak...
jetjock said:
back up processor eh? cool!
so you're saying the TPS must be functioning and is calibrated properly?
^ Ouch. Just for that some true nerdiness follows 
Shredder: I'm saying the ECU needs to have advance turned off and the engine idling. IDL also controls the idle speed system and the TCCS requires the engine be at a prescribed idle speed for initial timing to be set. Put simply shorting T and E with IDL closed disables ESA (Electronic Spark Advance) and sets idle speed. In this respect it's no different than non-EFI engines of days gone by. Those old enough (that would be you IJ) will recall how idle speed had to be correct and vacuum advance disabled to set timing back in those days.
There's the main processor and a backup chip. The signals supplied by the crank angle and speed sensors (G and NE) in the dizzy/CPS always go through the backup chip first before being passed on to the main processor. Every time you 1) start the engine or 2) jumper T and E the timing signal (IGt) sent to the igniter gets supplied by the backup chip. The IDL contact must be closed for this to happen when the diag block is shorted.
Anyway, in reality it's a bit more involved than that but you get the idea: When the jumper is in and the ECU sees IDL closed it knows to hand off control to the backup chip, which can only generate IGt based on where the distributor/CPS is set. At the same time it sets idle speed and holds it there so that you can mess with initial timing.
Shredder: I'm saying the ECU needs to have advance turned off and the engine idling. IDL also controls the idle speed system and the TCCS requires the engine be at a prescribed idle speed for initial timing to be set. Put simply shorting T and E with IDL closed disables ESA (Electronic Spark Advance) and sets idle speed. In this respect it's no different than non-EFI engines of days gone by. Those old enough (that would be you IJ) will recall how idle speed had to be correct and vacuum advance disabled to set timing back in those days.
There's the main processor and a backup chip. The signals supplied by the crank angle and speed sensors (G and NE) in the dizzy/CPS always go through the backup chip first before being passed on to the main processor. Every time you 1) start the engine or 2) jumper T and E the timing signal (IGt) sent to the igniter gets supplied by the backup chip. The IDL contact must be closed for this to happen when the diag block is shorted.
Anyway, in reality it's a bit more involved than that but you get the idea: When the jumper is in and the ECU sees IDL closed it knows to hand off control to the backup chip, which can only generate IGt based on where the distributor/CPS is set. At the same time it sets idle speed and holds it there so that you can mess with initial timing.