My lexus afm/550's problem thread: Over boosting as well

adampecush

Regular Supramaniac
May 11, 2006
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grimreaper;1263217 said:
vf readings work and work like a charm on the safc. Very helpful in tunning idle and making sure nothing is maxed out one way or the other on the low end


After reading this thread, I'm going to tap the vf signal with the S-AFC2, I'm just wondering what wire you used. Is it the VF1 (edit2...VF not VF1) wire from the following diagram?
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=50

EDIT - looking at the TEWD, it seems that this is the correct wire.

Do you still have your s-afc set up as reading the karmann vortex signal (and if so, the second afm signal is still active?)

any help is appreciated
 
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isnms

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Mar 30, 2005
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I don't see VF1 on that diagram but this is the 5v signal I tapped for my zeitronix to monitor VF
p1292210_1.jpg
 

grimreaper

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Jul 2, 2008
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^ thats correct. one the safc go to ETC. and SENSOR CHECK, its the second of third sensor value from the top.
 

adampecush

Regular Supramaniac
May 11, 2006
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sorry, my bad...i looked at the 7m-ge diagram initially.....i changed the link but forgot to change vf1 to vf.

thanks grim.
 

dbsupra90

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Apr 1, 2005
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it would be helpful if you could monitor your fuel pressure while boosting. make sure that is raising 1psi fp per 1psi boost. also to make sure the pressure isnt falling off.
 

MacDaddy_J_420

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Sep 5, 2007
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First of all I updated the first post so everyone needs to re read what is going on now.
I fixed the lean issue with the fuel pump and filter.
The idle issue is still there and my boost problem has gotten a little worse.

grimreaper - looking at the vf's were very helpful, but at idle they are still maxed out rich.

dbsupra90 - Yeah I was wondering about that, but now that I am not going lean I don't think that was the prob, but I am still wanting to get a fp gauge in the car so I can monitor fp.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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I want to point out that the car will run perfect with functional 550's and Lex housing. If you need to scale the airflow meter on the car to run right, there is a problem. Not counting a bigger turbo of course.
 

bountykilla0118

In Pursuit of 500rwhp
Jul 16, 2005
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Disclaimer I just got home and I m a little tipsy :)

It sounds like you have “pirate” air sneaking after the AFM. Have you checked all the couplers and clamps on the IC and pipes? Make a boost leak tester it was a good $10 investment if that much. Follow every intake line or pipe. Check the vac lines again, or better yet buy a roll and replace them all 1 by 1. They are old and I am sure it wouldn’t hurt to replace 20 yr old rubber hoses. Have you checked the intake gasket? Throttle body gasket or anything else that has the possibility of leaking.

If you up the fuel pressure a bit what does it do with the vf at idle or if you turn the screw? If its only at idle don’t worry about it to much. If cruise stays between 14-15 a/f and WOT is somewhere around 11-12’s you should be fine.
 

MacDaddy_J_420

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bountykilla - Yeah I am going to do a smoke test here again soon and see what I have. I called the other day about getting some dyno time because a wot tune is all i need and I will drive the car with the rough idle, but there isn't really much of a point until I figure out this boost issue. I hit 16psi the other day and it was still climbing. I am going to check the actuator real soon. I am going to also check the hg torque this coming weekend.
 
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kotu100

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Nov 23, 2006
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so the AFM fixed your rough idle problem? im having the exact same problem but my a/f is around 10-11 @ idle
 

kotu100

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grimreaper;1315868 said:
10-11 sounds like fail safe mode...but more info is needed to nail it down...

problem started after i installed lex afm (used the same sensor i was using previous) and 550cc injectors.
it will run fine during warm up, but then the idle will drop to 400 jump back up to 700 then do the same till it drops so low it stalls out. it drives fine and WOT a/f is 11.2-12 till high rpm then gets richer around 10.5

fuel pressure is set to 40 w/o vacuum.

i did try another afm sensor but im not sure if its good, i tested mine w/ a multimeter and it tested out per tsrm spec. same w/ the iscv.
 
McDaddy:

maybe I just lucked out, but I used 550 RC (ND) injectors about 35 PSI FP (under idle vacuum), and backed the stock screw out about 2/3 of the way. Reg's screw I do not understand. Mine runs so fine I have not even checked Vf yet, Have 57 trim CT26 and 3" single cat exhausthardpipes, Important to drill out or bypass the J pipe in fuel return. Simply stated, I have had no problems whatsoever. Set the spark to 13 BTC and have not touched anything since, except raising the boost to 17 PSI. car idles smooth, but takes off at 3KRPM like a rocket. If you remain with ball and spring boost controllers, the best is Dawes, with the small vent hole, only 1 PSI of boost creep.

One way to check for boost leaks: Adapt am air hose fitting to the inlet of the AFM using stretchy thick rubber sheeting and rubber cement, which will clean up nicely, Pressurize the system to about 15 PSI with the engine off and listen with a hose to one ear for leaks. Thely only hiss you should hear is at the throttle body.

Excessively rich running undier high boost is usually a sign of air leaks which appear at high pressure,

PS: I had the trhrottle body bored out when I went to Performance techniques for the 57 trim upgrade, works well.


Hope this helps,

BernieK

MacDaddy_J_420;1257095 said:
Alright here goes,

Over the past few months I have been reading and trying to figure out how to get my car running good on the lex afm/550 combo, but have had not alot of luck. I have searched for many different settings on the afm screw and fuel pressure and can't seem to find the one that work's right for me. One good thing is the car starts up every time with out any trouble.

Also before I get flammed here are two good links for anyone looking for basic info on the lex afm/550 mod:
http://rob.carlile.home.mchsi.com/lexus/lexus1.htm
http://suprasonic.org/lexusriemer/lexusnotes.html

First let me list the mods I currently have on the car:
57 trim ct-26
precision 550cc injectors
lexus afm housing
aeromotive afpr
bypassed j-tube
k&n fipk
3" divorced downpipe from 935
blitz nur spec exhaust
2.5in hard pipes
spearco replica intercooler from drift motion
apexi safc 2
aem UEGO wideband
hks evc boost controller
walbro fuel pump

waiting to go on the car:
fuel dampener bypass hose - I have been reading about the fuel dampener and I think I am going to keep it on, it helps more than I thought with protecting the fuel pump.

UPDATE 5/3: Aright did a compression test today and all the numbers looked good and steady. Checked the torque on the headgasket bolts and all were right at 75ft lbs. I called the about dyno time and getting the car tuned the other day and hopefully after I get the few issues fixed that I am having with the car I will be getting the car tuned at around 14psi or so and finally getting to enjoy it.

Now my problems:
1. Every time I start the car when it is cold the afr's are steady around 14.8-15.0 when the car gets warmed up they will start jumping around all across the board and if the computer is trying to correct. I know that until the car is warm the computer will correct with the TCCS.

UPDATE 4/18: Alright just as every one has been telling me I had to check my vf voltage so I did. This was very simple in the diagnostic port just put the positive end of a volt meter in the vf1 pin and ground the other where you like. I noticed that sometimes the car would show 2.35v, which means no correction. Other times it would start running rough and go straight to 5v, which means the TCCS is seeing a lean condition and trying to correct by making things richer. I raised the fuel pressure and went in on the afm screw a little, but nothing seems to help. I have heard that and the lex/550 mod idle is always going to be lean.

UPDATE 5/3: I went to checking the signals on the o2 sensor and afm. Turns out that when the car starts to stumble the afm signal drops out entirely. Going to replace the afm and go from there.

UPDATE 5/7: You know it pays to be a supra owner because like most of us you always have a good supply of back up parts just lying around that you can't make yourself get rid of. Well I went through my pile and had a used by good afm. Got it on the car, cleared the codes and adaptations, fired it up and it ran like a champ. This weekend I am going to check my vf voltage and hopefully get the idle tuned out some.

2. FIXED: Problem with going lean under boost.

UPDATE 4/18:Alright after I got the walbro installed and replaced my fuel filter this cleared up this issue, I set my base fuel pressure w/o vac to 41 psi, which was around 40 with vac on, and I backed the afm screw all the way out and went one turn in. I drove the car so that the TCCS could make the corrections and now when I boost the afr's look good. They are in the 11's.

3. Over boosting issue:

UPDATED 4/18: Now that I have installed the divorced down pipe the boost creeping issue has gotten worse. Now the turbo will easily creep up to 14-15 psi and I will let off there. The boost controller is set at 10psi and the boost will hold there for some time, but around 4000 rpm it will start creeping. I have thought about just setting the boost controller and seeing what that does. Since the creep issue is coming from the waste gate on the ct26 being not efficient as needed maybe I can get the boost set to where the waste gate will do what it needs to.

UPDATED 5/3: Well I hit 17psi the other day while test driving, afr's were still safe, but I needed to get this figured out. Tested the actuator and everything seemed to function properly. The waste gate flapper moved freely. Here in the next week or so I am going to take the turbo off and try to enlarge the waste gate port on the turbo slightly and maybe even try and port the down pipe as well. I have my fingers crossed that this will fix the issue with over boosting.

A few things I need to note:
1. I have not yet started messing with the safc because I have read that the stock ecu should control the basics of the mod and only to use the safc to fine tune.
2. I have the stock lexus afm screw, I have read that there is a sonic afm screw, but I do not know if I need this or not or where to get it
3. Could the stock fuel pump be a big cause to this issue as well as the fuel dampener bypass. Possible even the 12volt mod, but I would really like to avoid having to do this one.

I am open to suggestions that anyone may have and would like to know what base fuel pressure people are running with the lexafm/550's set-up and what the afm screw is set at.

Thanks
James
 

grimreaper

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Jul 2, 2008
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the tsrm only specs how to test the temperature sensor. afm should read 14-25 hz on a warm idle and should increase with rpms rather significantly.... hate to say search but dig through my old threads i posted in. I (copied) layed out how to test the actual AFM signal per jj....

edit:

KS to E1 with a reading in Hz.... VC should be a consant power supply with the key on. KS to E1 have to be read with the motor running (strip a section of wires from the sensor).
 

kotu100

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Nov 23, 2006
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grimreaper;1315900 said:
the tsrm only specs how to test the temperature sensor. afm should read 14-25 hz on a warm idle and should increase with rpms rather significantly.... hate to say search but dig through my old threads i posted in. I (copied) layed out how to test the actual AFM signal per jj....

edit:

KS to E1 with a reading in Hz.... VC should be a consant power supply with the key on. KS to E1 have to be read with the motor running (strip a section of wires from the sensor).

i've been watching the kar readings on my safc, they usually stay around 19-22hz at a decent idle, but the number will jump or drop when the problem idle occurs, sometimes going as low as 14hz or jumping up to the 40-50hz range, but very very quickly, it wont stay there.

i'll see if i can swap out sensors with someone real quick to see if thats the problem.
 

grimreaper

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Jul 2, 2008
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id lean towards wiring then, when mine failed (oiled air filter) i got crazy readings that caused stalls when putting the clutch in under any driving circumstancs. Rain/humidity made it worse on mine to the point i had to unplug it to get home...

If it clears up with the new afm cool, i have one for sale ;)
 

MacDaddy_J_420

I heart SM
Sep 5, 2007
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berniek - Wow, you are using quite a bit more fuel pressure then I am. Right now mine is set a 39-40 with vac off and 29psi with vac on. I have checked for vacuum leaks a while back with a snap-on smoke machine, it worked well finding everyone that I had, and fixed them all. It however was a couple months back so I will take you advice and check again.

kotu100 - I used a snap-on vantage to look at the afm frequency, but when I did you could clearly see the signal stopping entirely. When it did this the frequency on the safc would jump around just like you described. I would try swapping the afm's and see from there.

And I note for everyone just like grimreaper stated oiled air filters will screw up mass air meters everytime. I am a hypocrite because I use one, but as soon as I find a replacement its going on the car.

Drove the car today some, still over boosting, but arf's are around 10.5. vf at idle is still 5v but I did play with the safc and get them back to 2.5, but it doesn't really effect how the car runs. I have heard most lex afm/550's idle lean anyways.
 

kotu100

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Nov 23, 2006
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MacDaddy_J_420;1316263 said:
berniek - Wow, you are using quite a bit more fuel pressure then I am. Right now mine is set a 39-40 with vac off and 29psi with vac on. I have checked for vacuum leaks a while back with a snap-on smoke machine, it worked well finding everyone that I had, and fixed them all. It however was a couple months back so I will take you advice and check again.

kotu100 - I used a snap-on vantage to look at the afm frequency, but when I did you could clearly see the signal stopping entirely. When it did this the frequency on the safc would jump around just like you described. I would try swapping the afm's and see from there.

And I note for everyone just like grimreaper stated oiled air filters will screw up mass air meters everytime. I am a hypocrite because I use one, but as soon as I find a replacement its going on the car.

Drove the car today some, still over boosting, but arf's are around 10.5. vf at idle is still 5v but I did play with the safc and get them back to 2.5, but it doesn't really effect how the car runs. I have heard most lex afm/550's idle lean anyways.

today, i noticed that if i held the AFM plug a certain way and did not move it, the kar reading on the safc wouldnt jump nearly as bad, and sometime would actually stay steady at 17-19 for 15 seconds before jumping.
i swapped out plugs with another harness i had layin around and there was no change. the gasket inside this plug was messed up so the plug wasnt going in all the way, i took the gasket out so it went in all the way, no change then either...

so i think, what if the gasket is holding the plug in the afm a certain way so that it contacts better. so i wrapped some electrical tape sround the afm where the plug goes in. the car was just idling for 20 mins without dropping below 550rpm once. the kar reading on the SAFC still jumped a little bit but not nearly as bad as before.

im still gonna try to swap out the AFM.

thanks for the helpful advice guys!





oh and on top of it all, i found out why my brand new (2 days old) LC-1 has been acting up... it decided to hug my downpipe for a little while and got melted.... :(