My apparent thermostat issue? or is it?

IwantMKIII

WVU MAEngineering
Jun 12, 2007
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Perkasie, PA
So a number of yo were telling me i may have a thermostat issue because my water temps run so cold. It occured to me this may not be so. I no longer have the original water temp sensor as i run a water temp gauge from autometer, so its sensor took its place. Now both the OEM gauge and autometer gauge register BUT i remember awhile back i had a connector with no home. Someone told me it was for the water temp sensor seen here:



My question is, is it possible the OEM gauge is getting a signal but the ECU NOT getting a signal? hence the thermostat not operating properly?

FYI, i did not wire this sensor, the previous owner did. It appears the automoter wires go directly to the driver side firewall and no splices were made in the engine bay itself to the OEM connector which is why i thought maybe he cut directly into the OEM gauge wire
 

IwantMKIII

WVU MAEngineering
Jun 12, 2007
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BorHor said:
T-stat has nothing to do with the ECU. It is a mechanical device which opens at a specific temperature.


DOH! lol, well i guess that answer my question, i tried to troubleshoot it w/o removal

well then what is this blue connector for then??? I thought maybe that controlled the t-stat

 

IwantMKIII

WVU MAEngineering
Jun 12, 2007
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jdub said:
Have you check yet that a thermostat is even installed?


ok, will do, just wanted to try to avoid it, i don't have a garage to work in really. well i do, but its an old barn with a collapsed in concrete floor and no heat...YAY!
 

IwantMKIII

WVU MAEngineering
Jun 12, 2007
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well theres no way its working if its in there. i just adjusted the timing cause it jumped a tooth. I couldn't get the car to go past 145* water temps under boost as much as possible....
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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I'd just go ahead and get a 190 deg Stant SuperStat and gasket for it. Might as well swap it out when you pull the housing cover off...don't forget to remove the jiggle valve and make sure the hole is at the top ;)
 

IwantMKIII

WVU MAEngineering
Jun 12, 2007
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Perkasie, PA
jdub said:
I'd just go ahead and get a 190 deg Stant SuperStat and gasket for it. Might as well swap it out when you pull the housing cover off...don't forget to remove the jiggle valve and make sure the hole is at the top ;)


My car typically levels out at 180* unless temps are below 40 or above 95. You're saying 190* t-stat. However when i looked to get one they have different temp settings ranging from 160-19x. I def took notice to the 180....should i not get one with a lower temp since my car runs much colder normally? the colder the engine, the more happy the engine.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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Dude - did you read what I posted in the other thread concerning what the ECU does based on coolant temperature? I didn't write all that out just to practice typing.

The factory stat is 190 deg...there is a very good reason for that. And I've already explained it to you.


(Are you sure you want to be an engineer?)
 

BorHor

2JZ-GZE
Jan 10, 2006
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jdub said:
Dude - did you read what I posted in the other thread concerning what the ECU does based on coolant temperature? I didn't write all that out just to practice typing.

The factory stat is 190 deg...there is a very good reason for that. And I've already explained it to you.

:biglaugh:

Dude just swap it out. I have no clue what you are avoiding. It one of the simplest fixes to do.
 

IwantMKIII

WVU MAEngineering
Jun 12, 2007
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jdub said:
Dude - did you read what I posted in the other thread concerning what the ECU does based on coolant temperature? I didn't write all that out just to practice typing.

The factory stat is 190 deg...there is a very good reason for that. And I've already explained it to you.


(are you sure you want to be an engineer?)


And i quote:

"BTW - the stock ECU looks for 176-210 degs as normal ops temps. Below 176, you are in warm-up enrichment...above 210, the ECU pulls timing."

I remembered the 176* part, which in turn would mean the 180* would work as well....only reason i asked...no reason to get mad, just wanted to clarify why you would go an extra 10* up?

edit: not to mention, if its a hot day out, one good boost pull and you're above 210* no problem if you start at 190....at least 180* would give you more of a buffer....another reason behind my question...