My 2jzge-t swap
- Thread starter juhanis
- Start date
Good choice on the engine swap. I will watch this thread for awhile. I am pretty much done with mine so if you have any questions about how I got around something ask away.
2JZ to the NA-T is the choice for me!
2JZ to the NA-T is the choice for me!
jmcboost;1181291 said:
the IS300 union bolt is already tapped for a 1/8NPT thread from Toyota, just another way of doing it, def more expensive tho
p5150;1181366 said:
thanks for the kind words sir.
jmcboost;1181291 said:
i'm just going to tee off the stock pressure gauge sender port, i have a nice stainless steel braided line that almost makes it :biglaugh: so, i plan to just help it out with some push loc hydraulic line action. they dont need to look good where no one is going to see. the gauge is going to be an autometer mechanical unit with a braided line running all the way to it. i think i'm going to rid my car of its 7m tomorrow and starting cleaning up the r154 so it looks nice with the new bellhousing. plus i'll begin fabrication on the upper portion of the downpipe. and re routing the stock wiring harness. that stuff should be kinda fun, so, i'm looking forward to it.
okay, i'll include some pics in this post a little while. i have to hook my phone up to the laptop. anyway, i got the fittings for the oil supply lines, and i started to make pie cuts for my downpipe. i didnt want to buy an ebay one and just hack it up, so i opted to modify my old 7m one, by pie cutting the hell out of it :evil2: and the best part is, i've done all these pie cuts with no saw :aigo: the pics will tell how. anyhow, just wanted to see some opinions on the pie cutting, let me know what ya think.
I attached the standard 7M oil pressure sensor to the lexus union bolt. For my turbo I used the same source as you have out the side of the block. I actually used the copper tube that runs behind the timing belt/engine cover by attaching compression fittings to the tubing.
p5150;1182169 said:
that's pretty badass. yeah, i saw that port, and i figured why not. i didnt want to tap anything else.
well here are some pics that i promised... i'm going to have to make more radical angles in my pie cuts to clear the firewall. plus my welds with the non gas cooled welder look like crap, so no pics of that. i'm gonna get to a better welder tonight.
here are the cuts and the tools of the trade
my friend jeff demonstrates how its done!
and here's a plan in motion.
me TRYING to make a decent looking weld... FAIL
me trying again...
my little oil line setup so far.
thats it for now... time for more pics later today.
2J NA-T FTMFW!! Sorry, I feel the need to interject that in every 2j thread.
Lookin' good! I love the "project iron man" nice color choices
Lookin' good! I love the "project iron man" nice color choices
Cool stuff man. This is so encouraging me to get working on assembling my 2J, lol. But my colorscheme is going to be War Machine!! LOL
keep up the good work and keep us posted, i am going to start hording parts to do that same swap into my 86 cressida probably in july august time frame
vert88;1182846 said:
no joke, hording up the parts is the way to do it! waiting sucks.
so, i figured i'd at least tack weld up a downpipe today. now, dont laugh at the shitty welds... they're temporary! using my crude measurements this thing should clear, but i know it will be close... it may not too, thats why its not totally welded together. pie cutting was proving to be a pain in the ass without the proper tools. so, i threw a bend on it after all. to the pics!
side...
back
all i got to say, is if i had some american chopper status tools, this thing would be very nice. but for a kragen welder and no use of a saw at all, its not bad. gas shielded welder welds are coming soon! the o2 sensor bung isnt on yet, and i need to check the clearances before finalizing the welds. i'll probably paint it black too with high temp paint.
High heat paint will just turn into high heat smoke and flakes on a downpipe. If you want it to last you will have to get it ceramic coated.
What Cade said X100. I tried powdercoating my manifold and it only lasted about twenty minutes. It cooked off and turned back to the original color. I'm sure they make a high temp pc, but mine apparently wasn't made for that.
Also, dont forget to re-clock your wastegate flange approximately 90 degrees so that the output port points aft. You will never be able to get a dump tube on it or tie a tube back in the exhaust if you decide to in the future.
I guess that you could just let the wastegate dump right on your frame but you might burn something up....
Consider the output port on the compressor housing. I had to weld a cast 90 aluminum bend on the housing of my gt42 because it went directly into the frame and there was absolutely no way possible to get any type of intercooler pipe to work without chopping up the frame or fender well. It looks to me like your turbo is situated in a similar fashion.
I covered my wastegate vacuum lines with thermal reflective slip over jackets and purchased high-grade temperature resistant hose from an industrial supply store. Its pretty cheap. The last thing you want is your wastegate line to get fucked up.
The last thing I could recommend from glancing at your pictures is to change that turbo oil supply line to a braided AN fitting or something. Im just not a big fan of pressurized rubber oil lines..... Drainage, OK. Pressure/Supply, not OK. Personally I dont care if the company says it is good or not, there is always the possibility of having a huge orgasmic mess when you chafe through the wall in a couple of years. I have had an engine fire from leaking oil before.
www.anplumbing.com is a great place to get stuff at a good price. A -4 or -3 line setup should be good but you will have to measure the restriction on the turbo inlet to see what size is right.
ooh - one other thing. You definately will need a turbo blanket. I got mine from boostlogic for about 170? but it was the oversized one for the GT42. You will definately note a difference and not have to change your coupler.
I guess that you could just let the wastegate dump right on your frame but you might burn something up....
Consider the output port on the compressor housing. I had to weld a cast 90 aluminum bend on the housing of my gt42 because it went directly into the frame and there was absolutely no way possible to get any type of intercooler pipe to work without chopping up the frame or fender well. It looks to me like your turbo is situated in a similar fashion.
I covered my wastegate vacuum lines with thermal reflective slip over jackets and purchased high-grade temperature resistant hose from an industrial supply store. Its pretty cheap. The last thing you want is your wastegate line to get fucked up.
The last thing I could recommend from glancing at your pictures is to change that turbo oil supply line to a braided AN fitting or something. Im just not a big fan of pressurized rubber oil lines..... Drainage, OK. Pressure/Supply, not OK. Personally I dont care if the company says it is good or not, there is always the possibility of having a huge orgasmic mess when you chafe through the wall in a couple of years. I have had an engine fire from leaking oil before.
www.anplumbing.com is a great place to get stuff at a good price. A -4 or -3 line setup should be good but you will have to measure the restriction on the turbo inlet to see what size is right.
ooh - one other thing. You definately will need a turbo blanket. I got mine from boostlogic for about 170? but it was the oversized one for the GT42. You will definately note a difference and not have to change your coupler.
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If you want an inexpensive EGR blockoff plate, just cut out an aluminum plate to fit and sandwich it between the stock egr diverter plate and the head.
aside from the weld you mocked it up pretty good can't wait til you get that bad boy running and start tuning it, by the way are you going to do maft pro or lex, 550's and safc, me i plan on going the lex route cause i going to go with what i know first and then see what happens
p5150;1183053 said:
i value your opinion on that oil line, it is a braided an line except for about 5" of it at the end there. i've ran these lines for years on many setups with no issues (well one did burn on the manifold once) but that was the only issue. also that rubber end is on the intake side too, and its high temp and good for 300psi. the oil lines otherwise are all braided stainless steel :icon_bigg oh yeah, the clock on the turbo is there so i can use my old jet hot coated ic pipes. the upper unfortunately will probably have to go under the knife, but mocking that up is near impossible without the engine in the car. i wish the 2jzgte intake fit, it would have made my life easier, because that's what i had on my 7m. and i'm already planning my attack on that wastegate flange. oh well, onward i go. thanks for the advice and comments!
vert88;1183054 said:
i'm just running the same piggybacks i had on my 7m... hks vpc, 550cc chip, safc2, avcr, 550cc denso's, areomotive afpr. i eventually want to get a megasquirt. i've ran the megasquirt on my turbo'd miata before, and i LOVED it. the engine was 200k miles 18psi of boost over 200hp and perfectly streetable and reliable, it started every time, and made this power daily. i sold it to another guy, he drove it for awhile... then drifted it, then sold it to someone else. it never died! back on topic, i really really hope that dp fits, i've checked it every way i could. the engine isnt ready to go in the car until the flywheel arrives. the 7m is coming out sometime in the next couple of days, and i'm going to degrease the transmission.
nothing got done today, just waiting for my flywheel,pilot bearing,belt,arp flywheel bolts to come in. so, a lot of beer drinking was done today. :drink1: