More rebuild questions.

[Sl1dewaysSupra]

Ok, so my motor is knocking like a mofo and is a little rough on it's idle and I get the "Waterfall" behind the dash. I figure it's just about time for a rebuild. I am having the motor COMPLETLY rebuilt bottom to top. I know I should go w/ a MHG not really as a power-adder but more preventitive medicine for the future. Not to mention new head studs. My questions are: any type or brand of MHG I should get or stay away from? Anny good suppliers? What thickness? Will having a MHG effect the way the head and block expand and contract?(will the head/block expand/contract at diffrent temps than the head gasket?) Any one heard about graphite head gaskets?

 

[supramacist]

I'm going with a 2.mm beaded mhg from hks. seemingly the most expensive one. Don't do any thing if it's not metal, man. It's just not worth the risk. This is not a corner you want to cut. I have had people say: use copper and some others say no to it. MHG is a perminent fix, or as close to one as your'e going to get.

 

[IJ.]

The HKS Stopper is their most expensive and I can testify first hand to how good they are!

Installed correctly on an NA nothing short of a thermonuclear blast will make one leak!

 

[supramacist]

LOL.. how much are they?

 

[IJ.]

Many many $$$ but worth every cent!
(sorry can't remember other than it was expensive)

 

[7MA61]

HKS 1.2mm gasket on my 7mge has done 3 years and around 45,000kms and the car has copped a thrashing for most of that.

 

[supramacist]

HKS 1.2mm gasket on my 7mge has done 3 years and around 45,000kms and the car has copped a thrashing for most of that.

Right on. Good to know.:evil2:

 

[Clip]

ive heard great things about the stopper HG from HKS. That's what i plan to use when mine goes out the door. i've got the in-dash waterfall, but my temperature, coolant, and oil seem to be doing fine with the factory HG.

 

[IJ.]

Mine survived a 32psi overboost a few months back as well as Sundays Meltdown that torched the electrode off a plug and has collapsed the ringlands on a Ross Forged piston!

No sign at all of it leaking so I'm way impressed!

 

[supramacist]

Mine survived a 32psi overboost a few months back as well as Sundays Meltdown that torched the electrode off a plug and has collapsed the ringlands on a Ross Forged piston!

No sign at all of it leaking so I'm way impressed!

And you don't remember what you gave or know what the price range is. Plus..., I'm not planning mods other than cold air and a pipe. I may lower it a bit. I can't get under it to work on it anyhow.

$336.53@ horse power freaks

 

[IJ.]

PM Big Aaron he supplied mine

All I remember is it was a bit exe for a MHG compared to all of the others but having seen what it's taken without leaking I'm more than happy to recommend it to any 7M user!

 

[supramacist]

PM Big Aaron he supplied mine

All I remember is it was a bit exe for a MHG compared to all of the others but having seen what it's taken without leaking I'm more than happy to recommend it to any 7M user!

Ya..., it's an entire 100 bucks more than anything else..., yikes. I'm thinking I don't need all of that. But maybe I do..., it sounds solid enough.

 

[IJ.]

Cheap peace of mind!
(I've killed 2 cometics so far with much less abuse than this)

 

[supramacist]

what do you think Ij..., should I go ahead and replace the starter, being as to never having a problem with it??

 

[IJ.]

If the Head/Intake is off it's MUCH easier to get to so may as well get a remanufactured one and maybe add a relay right at the starter while it's apart!

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

Smart man.

 

[Sl1dewaysSupra]

What were the "Better" head stud torque specs.? I thought it was 95 lbs/ft but I want to double check. I'm not going too mod heavy any time soon. Just porting intake and exhaust mani's. and 2.5 or 2.75 inch exhaust and headers. Should I base my decision of thickness depending on how much needs to be taken off the head/block? Should I go with head studs or bolts? What is the diffrence between the two?

 

[jdub]

Hi...I'm jdub...slayer of Supra HG myths and prophet of Supra enlightenment


J/K...but it feels like that sometimes concerning the numbers floating around on HG bolt/stud torque.


For ARP hardware, follow the torque spec that ARP supplies with the package...do not over torque! The torque spec is based on 75% of the rated strength for the hardware...ARP knows what they are talking about. Pay attention to the lube used...the torque spec is different for moly vs. motor oil.

Either bolts or studs are good. The studs have better clamping force and resist loosening better from thermal expansion. You want to retorque both after a few heat cycles...however, once studs have been heat cycled you do not have to retorque. What this means is if you reuse studs, you do not have to retorque them...when they are brand new, you do have to retorque them once and that is it.

The stock HG is ~ 1.3mm...you base your MHG thickness on how much material is removed from the block and head. There is .040" in 1 mm. If you remove .005" from both the block and head, that is .010" total or .25mm. In this example you would want a MHG of 1.5mm thickness.

The block surface and head surface must be decked to the RA spec for the MHG used. If you go with the HKS stopper, that is 30RA or less...for a Cometic, it's 50 RA or less. Do not use spray sealer on a new MHG...they already have a factory coating to effect the initial seal. Spray sealer can turn it into goo.

 

[Sl1dewaysSupra]

Good info! I'm sure my mechanic can help alot(He rebuilds engines for a living) Is there a formula for figuring out the HG thickness that would be needed after the head/block was milled?(Stock HG thickness minus amount machined off.)

 

[supramacist]

the thickness of the gasket affects the compression one way or the other. The studs won't come lose once you are heat cycled. The bolts will, I believe, in this car of mine. I'm not shaving my block but I am shaving the head...., they took 8 thousands off of it. I'm thinking 2.mm beaded. The only reason I ask is because this is the first time the stopper has seen the spot light.