<-- waits until the first claim get put through with this "classic" insurance. THis ought to be for a fun thread for sure 
MK3 Classic Car Insurance for $12.50 a month
- Thread starter Proficio
- Start date
Here is your Auto Rate Quote
Total premium for 4 vehicles
$15,937.57 (semi-annually)
State Farm Payment Plan*
(available only through a State Farm agent)
$2,656.26 per month
man, 3 ferraris and a new m5 would be expensive to fully insure
Total premium for 4 vehicles
$15,937.57 (semi-annually)
State Farm Payment Plan*
(available only through a State Farm agent)
$2,656.26 per month
man, 3 ferraris and a new m5 would be expensive to fully insure
Yeah its a NA hardtop. Im in the process of looking for a turbo targa tho. Ive been through AAA's online quote thing and it doesnt have seperate clickables for the turbo or targa options. I wonder how much that would run me.
I am going to add this for all you guys just as an FYI
for all you guys with liabilty only, think long and hard about just having that coverage. If you get into an accident and it was found to be your fault. GUess what, you insurance might pay only the liability limit of 10k or whatever it is but with a lawyer, guess who assets they are going after when the 10k doesn't cover but 4 days at the hospital.
If you guessed the owner of the vehicle you are right! Lose you Supra and any other asset that is liquid assets (saving, checking, income) etc.
How do I know this? Because I am the guy with the lawyer right now going after a liable party Not getting rich but want to get the money to cover about 250k worth of hospital, surgery, and recovery.
for all you guys with liabilty only, think long and hard about just having that coverage. If you get into an accident and it was found to be your fault. GUess what, you insurance might pay only the liability limit of 10k or whatever it is but with a lawyer, guess who assets they are going after when the 10k doesn't cover but 4 days at the hospital.
If you guessed the owner of the vehicle you are right!
Lose you Supra and any other asset that is liquid assets (saving, checking, income) etc.How do I know this? Because I am the guy with the lawyer right now going after a liable party
Not getting rich but want to get the money to cover about 250k worth of hospital, surgery, and recovery.
o yeah i got it now too i forgot to tell yall. lol i got the full way in it like 79 a month...thank god
FYI, I've had my classic insurance at $11/month for over a year now, no problems. It IS full coverage. $250 deductible.
has anyone in california tried this? Ca sucks. We only have antique plates and that's 25+ older.
grsupra87 said:
what are the limits specifically?
250000 Personal/500000 accident /250000 property?
if it is anything lower, you can keep that insurance as it is worthless
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I've been with State Farm from the beginning, many years. All my stuff is through them. Life, cars, house, boat, etc. Good discounts with SF.
Geico was gonna be double $$ for me to switch.
Points of interest....
Each state has its own seperate 'State Farm Co." So when you move to another state, you are not actually 'transferring' to a new agent. They will be writing you a new policy in that state.
When I moved from Calif to Fla. I thought I was just transferring my policy. My rates for the same coverage went down by 1/3.
The wife and I have gotten a ticket now and then, and the usual few small fender benders. My rates never went up. My agents said they would not go up unless I (or her) were driving 'recklessly', or DUI.
I had a 2 year old speeding ticket while living in Fla., and it was 8 years since the last ticket in Calif. I moved to North Carolina, and because the ticket was not over 3 years old, I had to pay double for a year (until the ticket drops off at 3 years).
But...luckily the rates in NC are even lower than Fla, so it was just a little more $$. After that first year, my rate went down, and was 1/2 of the normal Fla rate.:biglaugh:
I learned that when you move to another state, "YOU" will need to provide your new agent with proof that you have been with State Farm in another state to get discounts.
I had to call NC & Fla agents and have them fax the info to my new Calif agent. This saved me a ton of $$$ because they give BIGGER discounts the longer you're with them.
Also, I was gonna purchase a new car for the wife, so we settled on 3 different models. I went down to my agent to discuss rates for each of those models before picking one.
If a model comes with 4, 6, or 8 cyls, guess which one had the highest rate.
Turbo vs n/a, ..... guess which.
Now...I just got a 1965 Plymouth Fury III from my dad, which had belonged to my great aunt. 66248 original miles. Definately a 'classic'. Low ryder.
So...thanks to this thread, I put that car under the 'classic car' coverage.
$11 mo. ($140 yr) Full coverage. $100 deductables. 1000 miles per year.
For $20 mo ($240 yr) I can drive it as much as I want.
$5k value (I checked around on the net for what I could sell it for). I'm gonna have it professionally appraised, so if it gets stolen, I'll get what its worth.
This car looks like its about 3 years old. All new interior. Original paint that still looks great. Glass is perfect (not even a chip).
They took photos, and statements, and what I plan on doing with it, and where is it stored/kept.
But...at 10 mpg, and no A/C, I'll only be driving it on an occasional cruise, and a few local shows.:biglaugh:
I did not get antique tags for it because it only costs $39 yr. It has the original plates, which look new.
Geico was gonna be double $$ for me to switch.
Points of interest....
Each state has its own seperate 'State Farm Co." So when you move to another state, you are not actually 'transferring' to a new agent. They will be writing you a new policy in that state.
When I moved from Calif to Fla. I thought I was just transferring my policy. My rates for the same coverage went down by 1/3.
The wife and I have gotten a ticket now and then, and the usual few small fender benders. My rates never went up. My agents said they would not go up unless I (or her) were driving 'recklessly', or DUI.
I had a 2 year old speeding ticket while living in Fla., and it was 8 years since the last ticket in Calif. I moved to North Carolina, and because the ticket was not over 3 years old, I had to pay double for a year (until the ticket drops off at 3 years).
But...luckily the rates in NC are even lower than Fla, so it was just a little more $$. After that first year, my rate went down, and was 1/2 of the normal Fla rate.:biglaugh:
I learned that when you move to another state, "YOU" will need to provide your new agent with proof that you have been with State Farm in another state to get discounts.
I had to call NC & Fla agents and have them fax the info to my new Calif agent. This saved me a ton of $$$ because they give BIGGER discounts the longer you're with them.
Also, I was gonna purchase a new car for the wife, so we settled on 3 different models. I went down to my agent to discuss rates for each of those models before picking one.
If a model comes with 4, 6, or 8 cyls, guess which one had the highest rate.
Turbo vs n/a, ..... guess which.
Now...I just got a 1965 Plymouth Fury III from my dad, which had belonged to my great aunt. 66248 original miles. Definately a 'classic'. Low ryder.
So...thanks to this thread, I put that car under the 'classic car' coverage.
$11 mo. ($140 yr) Full coverage. $100 deductables. 1000 miles per year.
For $20 mo ($240 yr) I can drive it as much as I want.
$5k value (I checked around on the net for what I could sell it for). I'm gonna have it professionally appraised, so if it gets stolen, I'll get what its worth.
This car looks like its about 3 years old. All new interior. Original paint that still looks great. Glass is perfect (not even a chip).
They took photos, and statements, and what I plan on doing with it, and where is it stored/kept.
But...at 10 mpg, and no A/C, I'll only be driving it on an occasional cruise, and a few local shows.:biglaugh:
I did not get antique tags for it because it only costs $39 yr. It has the original plates, which look new.
mine is 250,000/500,000/250,000. Deductibles are 250. I estimated my car to be worth $5000 when they wrote my policy. They rate goes by the value of the car. If I wanted 10,000 worth, of course my monthly would be more.