Miekedmr's build thread

[miekedmr]

I made the Jeep engine mount fit between the two bolt holes there, facing downward.
I will be building my own cross piece to attach it to the body. By the time I was done cutting up the stock piece to make it fit, there wasn't much left of it.

Anyone think that the engine mount, used as a transmission mount, might be too stiff?
Could there be any downsides to not having enough play there, other than transmitting more vibration to the body? (Like parts breaking? Cracked bellhousing, that type of thing?)

 

[miekedmr]

I won't talk a lot because I know it bores you.

Pics of the 5mm AL spacer I made to get my AR5 to line up right:

 

[miekedmr]

"beta version" of transmission support made from stainless plate


the welder I got and have used for this stuff. 165A tig.


stainless bolts > rusty bolts


drilling the oil drain hole (rear sump pan is from 2jz-ge)

 

[limequat]

How much was the driveshaft?

What are you going to do about the shifter?

 

[miekedmr]

Howdy Limequat!

The driveshaft I ordered through driftmotion, the 1-piece aluminum 3" driveshaft. I just specified I wanted the GM yoke on the front and gave them measurements and it fits like a glove.

For the shifter I am doing the easy/ghetto thing and cutting the trans tunnel and then putting a fairly big kink (~3.5") in the shifter so it pops up in the right spot.

I saved the chunk of tunnel that I cut out so that if/when I decide later to do it up right and mod the trans to move the shifter back, I can more or less undo my hackjob. (minus some plastic stuff I also had to clearance.) I just didn't want this to be a major hurdle to getting it on the road, with so many other things to worry about.

 

[Jetpower]

nice build!

 

[miekedmr]

I did some work over the holiday and took a handful of pictures.
Fluidampr, 2jz water pump, and Al pulleys were installed.















ffwall::: lolsign :::2ar15:

 

[BrandonW]

nice, good to see some progress

 

[Beals]

ahh a 1UZ build like that is my dream. I';d trade my twin turbo recaro any day for a v8 with twins Atleast you should of went with more displacement and got a 1GZ-FE haha. But I think it already looks good other then the home-made looking front lip :S the bomex sides and rears go with the car they just need paint.

 

[miekedmr]

That TT 1uz was definitely a blast to drive. Both the motor and the turbo kit bryan built for it live on in other cars now, providing lots of jollies.
Long term, though, the lil boost happy 1JZ is going to be a better fit.
My goal is to hit 30mpg on the highway and still be able to put out over 400 horses at the wheels.
I'm not actually sure if I can squeeze that kind of efficiency out of it, but I've got a long list of tricks I can try to get there. PWM fuel pump, standalone, subtle aero mods (underbelly tray), that whole external supercharger as a replacement for the turbos idea... we'll see.
In other news I bought a volvo station wagon daily driver (XC70) which will make it a hell of a lot easier to get out to my dads place and work on my Supra.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Keep up the good work.

 

[thedivision]

Did the 15mm I.D. pilot bearing work? I thought the Colorado had a 22.7mm input shaft.

 

[miekedmr]

thedivision: Yes, it did work. The shaft gets thinner on the end -- maybe that's where the confusion is.
See the picture of the shaft in post #39.

Supraguy: Thanks for the encouragement.

 

[miekedmr]

Damn, even this little fitting netted me 2 lifesavers.

youdaman, Aaron.

 

[7M4EVR]

View attachment 72001

Damn, even this little fitting netted me 2 lifesavers.

youdaman, Aaron.

Lmao, I thought the same thing when I got my thermostat in the mail.

 

[aixgelo78]

lifesavers? I haven't had those since I was a kid, where do I sign up for some? haha...anyways, keep up the good work, and looking forward to it being on the road.

 

[miekedmr]

I was reading back and saw the post where limequat asked how much I paid for the driveshaft. Then I proceeded to not answer the question, leaving him to go look up the price on driftmotion. The answer was $440. Sorry, limequat.

Costs so far, as rough estimates:

Bryans wonderful car: $5000 after deducting what I got for the engine/trans with twin turbo kit (and wheels)
1JZ spec twin clutch with GM plates: $1600
1JZ: $1200ish
JZ to R154 bellhousing: $350?
20k mile AR5 from 2WD chevy colorado: $500
Various stuff from driftmotion including remote oil cooler, lightweight pulleys, 2JZ water pump, fluidamper, ARP hardware, misc bolts, some AN fittings and fuel pressure regulator, the driveshaft ($440), throttle cable, serpentine belt, shift knob, and on and on...
Unfortunately even though I looked at the bills not too long ago I can't access them now since the old store website is gone. In my head I count about $1500 worth of stuff from driftmotion, though I forget whether I got the bellhousing listed above from them or somewhere else.
Welding supplies, metal, not including welder: $200
Mustang brake parts and adapter kit: $750
wheels: $800
Labor: what labor?

We'll leave out gas/bus tickets/other methods of getting out to work on it, drill bits, other tools, etc.

Estimated cost so far: $11,900

I don't think I'll be done until I've bought the equivalent of a small house in parts for it.

 

[miekedmr]

Hmmm... what is this thing?

 

[miekedmr]

Oh, and then this came!

 

[miekedmr]

Since nobody wants to guess or comment or anything...
It's an electric oil pump and pressure regulator. I am creating a pre-oiling system.
It will allow me to have oil pressure before starting the engine.
I can also use it to circulate oil through the engine/turbos for a little bit after the engine is turned off hot, similar to what a turbo timer does without wasting as much gas.
Lastly if I can get it to work well with a PWM (with the relatively low frequency one I tried it on, the pump has a loud whine) I might set it up to supplement low rpm oil pressure, i.e. 50% duty at 1400 rpm progressing down to 100% duty at 800 rpm and below, or something along those lines.
Down the road I might actually couple it with one of the smaller accusump models.

I've also considered using the excess oil flow to do something like add squirters to squirt at cam lobes or valve springs.. but that's not real high on my list.

Oil pan -> inline 40 micron filter -> rb-racing 12v spur gear oil pump -> aviaid remote oil pressure regulator set around 30psi, with bypass looped back to pre-pump -> one way check valve -> tee into oil supply by the oil filter

Why? Because I can.