Okay, wasnt sure. I was reading "free of engine deposits" as "no more from whats already there." Thanks for clarification!
Manual Transmission fluid. What are you using and how do you like it?
- Thread starter Datsrboi
- Start date
I asked... I called them three years ago, spoke w/them and had them send me spec sheets. They site an add package, and I asked them what those are and was told they remove seal degradation caused by the diester base stock. Of course, the only way I can know for a fact is to have the oil chemically analyzed. Van
jdub;1044961 said:I wish Neo would publish more info on their oils...how do you know it's ester based?
(ester is good stuff...Red Line is also ester based)
BTW - RP engine oil does contain a healthy dose of ZDDP (zinc) as an anti-wear additive. That's why the SBC crowd running flat tappet motors like it so much. It also has a high TBN to take care of any blowby for those high HP motors with the rings gapped a bit wide. RP is a good oil, but the rest of it's additive pack (detergents, dispersants, etc) is not as good as others available...if you want to use it on the street, I would recommend analysis every 4K (and a filter change) to make sure it's doing it's job.
My friend uses AMS in his RSX and he loves it.
i understand an RSX isnt a supra, i was asking him a question and he said AMS is like a step above the RT-90 and most people dont use it because its more difficult to get ahold of and costs more money. Would AMS be better?
i understand an RSX isnt a supra, i was asking him a question and he said AMS is like a step above the RT-90 and most people dont use it because its more difficult to get ahold of and costs more money. Would AMS be better?
Im Chris Brown;1045316 said:
AMS? Are you talking about an Amsoil product? Be more specific.
Like I said, Red Line is an ester base stock. It's the best you can get.
Van - Ester normally swells seals, PAO tends to shrink them. Additives are used in both to mitigate the effect. In the early days of PAO synthetics, the shrinking effect on seals was one of the reasons the contention "synthetics cause leaks" got started.
MTL is what I use. Same as JetJock havent had any complaints whatsoever about it. Perfect shifts everytime and my car is daily Driven too.
Supraboy89;1045044 said:
Ford gear oil with the additive. Synthetics tend to make the rear end noisy...
im just going with redline
all he said was AMS..soo.. i dont know. nor do i really feel like asking him.
all he said was AMS..soo.. i dont know. nor do i really feel like asking him.
bluedragon17;1045555 said:
MTL and MT90 are very similar, MTL is just a thinner gear oil. The advantage I can see for MTL is less viscous friction due to it's thinner viscosity. In a basically stock car, it should help gas mileage wise. On a high HP car that sees track time and shock load to the tranny, different story.
Poodles;1045563 said:
The synthetic differential oils are primarily a problem on a worn LSD and can cause clatter. I agree, the Ford oil and friction modifier is a good choice in this case. On a rebuilt LSD or one with relatively low miles or in good shape, Red Line 75W-90 works well (I'm running it). It has the friction modifier already in it too.
When I got my "Low Mileage Tranny" (r154) it had a grind going into second. I changed the fluid it had in it with Redline MT-90 and the grind went away. I also have Redline 75W-90 in my rear end, no chatter. I also had Redline in all my driveline parts in my in my 6Spd 4x4 Taco before I sold it. MT-90 in the tranny, 75w-90 in both diffs, and 75w-90NS in the transfer case.
I use usual semi-synthetic Shell oil, does it's job but I'm changing to redline soon.
My rear-end has 259 000km, but still no noise with redline
My rear-end has 259 000km, but still no noise with redline