Manual Transmission fluid. What are you using and how do you like it?
- Thread starter Datsrboi
- Start date
MT-90 FTW!!!!!! My 2nd gear ground so hard even driving normally. after switching, it was night and day. no grinding even while revving high or down shifting..
There's a really good reason why you don't want to use Royal Purple gear oil in a R154 or W58. Royal Purple Syncromesh is definitely not a good idea. There's a couple threads on both in the Lube section if anyone is interested as to why 
This is correct...the add pack in RP engine oils is not as stout as one for street use. However, it is a Grp IV PAO oil and will provide better service than most of the other Grp III oils like Mobil 1...Pennzoil Platinum (also a Grp III) is an exception. For the $$$, German Castrol is a hard oil to beat. This is also discussed in a Lube section thread
Datsrboi;1044261 said:
This is correct...the add pack in RP engine oils is not as stout as one for street use. However, it is a Grp IV PAO oil and will provide better service than most of the other Grp III oils like Mobil 1...Pennzoil Platinum (also a Grp III) is an exception. For the $$$, German Castrol is a hard oil to beat. This is also discussed in a Lube section thread
jdubs info and what he provided threw pm in my mass of questions is alot of the reason why i switched to mt90.
looks like im planning on throwing some rt-90 in there! woot!
i was bummed about my current shifting conditions too. hopefully this helps
i was bummed about my current shifting conditions too. hopefully this helps
Yes, notice jdub said ENGINE oil...
In the tranny, you don't have the acids and other contaminates from a combustion process, so it will last far longer.
German Castrol for engine, Redline MT-90 for tranny, and Ford dino oil and friction additive for the diff is what I run.
In the tranny, you don't have the acids and other contaminates from a combustion process, so it will last far longer.
German Castrol for engine, Redline MT-90 for tranny, and Ford dino oil and friction additive for the diff is what I run.
NEO 100% Diester synthetic 75-90 HD http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/gear_oil.html
I have been using this brand gear oil for 16 years. Works as well in the LSD... For track days, I change to the NEO 18 LWT in the R154. In the LSD, I still use the NEO 75-90 but RHD vs HD. My times improved three years ago while using the thinner oil. I've only been using those thin oils for the past three seasons.
Van
I have been using this brand gear oil for 16 years. Works as well in the LSD... For track days, I change to the NEO 18 LWT in the R154. In the LSD, I still use the NEO 75-90 but RHD vs HD. My times improved three years ago while using the thinner oil. I've only been using those thin oils for the past three seasons.
Van
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I wish Neo would publish more info on their oils...how do you know it's ester based?
(ester is good stuff...Red Line is also ester based)
BTW - RP engine oil does contain a healthy dose of ZDDP (zinc) as an anti-wear additive. That's why the SBC crowd running flat tappet motors like it so much. It also has a high TBN to take care of any blowby for those high HP motors with the rings gapped a bit wide. RP is a good oil, but the rest of it's additive pack (detergents, dispersants, etc) is not as good as others available...if you want to use it on the street, I would recommend analysis every 4K (and a filter change) to make sure it's doing it's job.
(ester is good stuff...Red Line is also ester based
)BTW - RP engine oil does contain a healthy dose of ZDDP (zinc) as an anti-wear additive. That's why the SBC crowd running flat tappet motors like it so much. It also has a high TBN to take care of any blowby for those high HP motors with the rings gapped a bit wide. RP is a good oil, but the rest of it's additive pack (detergents, dispersants, etc) is not as good as others available...if you want to use it on the street, I would recommend analysis every 4K (and a filter change) to make sure it's doing it's job.
What say you about adding a small amount of ATF to the crankcase as an additive? Its inexpensive but still quality stuff. Granted I'd never use it purely for engine oil, it still does wonders for cleaning things, in or out of cars
^^^ Old mechanics trick back in the day. Not necessary (or recommended) for a good modern oil, especially a PAO or ester based oil...these do an outstanding job keeping the engine free of deposits straight out of the bottle.
That ATF has cleaning properties is an old myth. It has no detergents in it. Dispersants yes, but no detergents. It possess minimal to zero cleaning action. Another piece of automotive folklore that needs to die.
jdub;1045018 said:
Even RP?
jetjock;1045031 said:
That may be, but like I said, I use it to clean things (tools, slides, anything) and it works so...would that be the dispersants?
Orion ZyGarian said:
jdub said:
Free of deposits = clean. And, that applies to an older motor too.