making sure this is right, ordering final 7mGE parts from Titan

[phoenix6]

ok, so, replace with my GTE crank or trust itll work and get one bearing or take my crank and rods to a machine shop to have em checked. See this is the thing guys. If I can get this motor running OK for at LEAST until xmas, Im getting a big bonus from work, I can go get my 1jz, thats why Im not ultra concerned with this motor lasting me years to come. Otherwise I do agree, completely, do it right all the way the first time. Please dont think of me as ignorant, I do agree with all of you, aaron especially, really I do. Theres alot riding on my back right now about the timing this takes to get it done.

I am getting ARP Head Studs, and as far as my crank goes, Ill let you know. Im getting a new Oil pump but I saw something about the filter so I must ask.

I saw something about chaning the filter adapter or something, how and how much does that cost?

 

[bigaaron]

Why is that and should the machine shop be able to tell me?

Because the bolts are pressed in. Changing the bolts makes the rod deform slightly so you would have a high or low spot on both sides.

 

[bigaaron]

ok, so, replace with my GTE crank or trust itll work and get one bearing or take my crank and rods to a machine shop to have em checked. See this is the thing guys. If I can get this motor running OK for at LEAST until xmas, Im getting a big bonus from work, I can go get my 1jz, thats why Im not ultra concerned with this motor lasting me years to come. Otherwise I do agree, completely, do it right all the way the first time. Please dont think of me as ignorant, I do agree with all of you, aaron especially, really I do. Theres alot riding on my back right now about the timing this takes to get it done.

I am getting ARP Head Studs, and as far as my crank goes, Ill let you know. Im getting a new Oil pump but I saw something about the filter so I must ask.

I saw something about chaning the filter adapter or something, how and how much does that cost?

If you check all the journals and rods and they are within the specs, and you use the plastigauge to verify it then that sould work ok. If you change the pistons you should change the rings and hone the cylinders at least with a flex-hone brush though, because otherwise they will probably not seat correctly and it will burn oil pretty bad.

 

[phoenix6]

If you check all the journals and rods and they are within the specs, and you use the plastigauge to verify it then that sould work ok. If you change the pistons you should change the rings and hone the cylinders at least with a flex-hone brush though, because otherwise they will probably not seat correctly and it will burn oil pretty bad.

how much is a flex hone brush?


Heres the update! and questions.

I got ALL pistons out and main caps OFF, checked all my bearings, interesting shit, anyways, I had my neighbor who was a mechanic for 20+ years take a look. He said YES the one that had knock was scrapped on the journal and needed to be micropolished. I told him I had another crank, he said get a crank kit for $75, I was like its $300! LOL

Anyways, heres where Im at. I CAN NOT get the crank pulley bolt off, I know it turns opposite, but it will not come off. Also, can I just take off the back side where the flywheel bolts on and lift the crank and pull it out or do I HAVE to take off the WHOLE front assembly to get it out? I Really REALLY dont want to take off the rest of the front, please help!


OH and ONE of the main bearings had some pretty noticeable gouges in it, neighbor said bad oil.

Last question, how can I measure thrust washers clearance at home doing this AND, do I use plastigauge on the main bearings as well?

Thanks a ton guys, Aaron, I appreciate all your help so far, with every else too!

Oh and are the main bearings diff size like rod bearings? More measuring?

OH OH one more LOL sorry, the rod cap numbers from 1st to 6th piston = 1 - 3 - 2 - 1 - 3 - 1

On the other motor I dont know yet, but do I need to put in the other motors crank and rods in the order they are in now in the other motor, or in the order they are in my GE in my garage that i just took out? I know its for balance but is that to the block or crank?

 

[phoenix6]

really wanna get some info on this last part before tonight please, thanks guys. Working on alot more tonight.

 

[bigaaron]

how much is a flex hone brush?


Heres the update! and questions.

I got ALL pistons out and main caps OFF, checked all my bearings, interesting shit, anyways, I had my neighbor who was a mechanic for 20+ years take a look. He said YES the one that had knock was scrapped on the journal and needed to be micropolished. I told him I had another crank, he said get a crank kit for $75, I was like its $300! LOL

Anyways, heres where Im at. I CAN NOT get the crank pulley bolt off, I know it turns opposite, but it will not come off. Also, can I just take off the back side where the flywheel bolts on and lift the crank and pull it out or do I HAVE to take off the WHOLE front assembly to get it out? I Really REALLY dont want to take off the rest of the front, please help!


OH and ONE of the main bearings had some pretty noticeable gouges in it, neighbor said bad oil.

Last question, how can I measure thrust washers clearance at home doing this AND, do I use plastigauge on the main bearings as well?

Thanks a ton guys, Aaron, I appreciate all your help so far, with every else too!

Oh and are the main bearings diff size like rod bearings? More measuring?

OH OH one more LOL sorry, the rod cap numbers from 1st to 6th piston = 1 - 3 - 2 - 1 - 3 - 1

On the other motor I dont know yet, but do I need to put in the other motors crank and rods in the order they are in now in the other motor, or in the order they are in my GE in my garage that i just took out? I know its for balance but is that to the block or crank?

The crank pulley bolt goes counter clockwise to unscrew it. "rightey tightey, lefty loosey". :biglaugh: It's just on there like a sob, and sometimes it takes a 3' breaker bar with a 5' pipe on it to remove :cry: You have to remove the whole front timing cover and the rear main seal plate to get the crank out.

To check the crank and main bearings you need a dial bore gauge and a micrometer. I would leave that step up to a good machinist though. They would probably look at it for free and tell you what it is going to need.

On the rod bearings you got one of the fine toyota 7m's that needed 3 different sized bearings.
Another reason to get the crank ground .010" under and the rods resized and the block line bored. You already spun a bearing so that rod is no good without a resize for sure, and the crank will need more then a polish if you can feel any grooves in it with your fingernail.

 

[aljordan]

If you don't have time or money to do it correctly.. then don't do it. Obviously, you're getting around town with a car just fine. Keep using that and do this motor properly. If not, you WILL be doing it over.

You need to pull the motor, take the block, rods, and crank to the machine shop. They'll hone the cylinders to ensure the rings have a good surface to bed in.

They'll inspect the crank to make sure it's good. Then they'll polish each journal to make it glass smooth.

Rods will be cleaned and the big ends will be brought back into spec. Since you've experienced rod knock.. this is important.

I've been told... there's never time/money to do it right, but there's always time/money to do it over.

 

[phoenix6]

Ive got my GTE block downstairs now. The pistons look great so I have good hopes for the crank and rods. I guess Ill sell some parts off of it. The block itself has surface rust in a lot of places.

Ill take the crank, rods to a shop and have them give me the right bearing sizes and an estimate on what needs to be done. Meanwhile Im gonna clean the shit out of everything else, including my carbon crusted GE pistons. I have a ton of simple green, brakleen and others and Im not afraid to use it.

Whole front timing cover comes off? Fuck me sideways, what a bitch this is gonna be to remove, this shit isnt fun anymore LOL

I wouldnt mind if I had a shop with all the right tools for this, but I dont. I have enough tools. I will get this done, and done right. I luckily remembered my neighbor like I said was a mechanic for 20+ years and he will help with any info.

 

[JustAnotherVictim]

Because the bolts are pressed in. Changing the bolts makes the rod deform slightly so you would have a high or low spot on both sides.

I see.
Thanks.

 

[bigaaron]

Ive got my GTE block downstairs now. The pistons look great so I have good hopes for the crank and rods. I guess Ill sell some parts off of it. The block itself has surface rust in a lot of places.

Ill take the crank, rods to a shop and have them give me the right bearing sizes and an estimate on what needs to be done. Meanwhile Im gonna clean the shit out of everything else, including my carbon crusted GE pistons. I have a ton of simple green, brakleen and others and Im not afraid to use it.

Whole front timing cover comes off? Fuck me sideways, what a bitch this is gonna be to remove, this shit isnt fun anymore LOL

I wouldnt mind if I had a shop with all the right tools for this, but I dont. I have enough tools. I will get this done, and done right. I luckily remembered my neighbor like I said was a mechanic for 20+ years and he will help with any info.

:bigthumb: Now you are right on track!

 

[phoenix6]

Thanks!!

I got the GTE bottom end completely out, ITS PERFECT!! Perfect donor. All the bearings are even nice, they look new!, Ill take pics to show, and still get it all checked.

I bought a piston ring compressor also. About those rings, do the notches need to be lined up (where they come together) or in seperate places on the piston?

Lots of oil on my hands, Ill show u guys tomorrow

 

[bigaaron]

Thanks!!

I got the GTE bottom end completely out, ITS PERFECT!! Perfect donor. All the bearings are even nice, they look new!, Ill take pics to show, and still get it all checked.

I bought a piston ring compressor also. About those rings, do the notches need to be lined up (where they come together) or in seperate places on the piston?

Lots of oil on my hands, Ill show u guys tomorrow

Space the compression ring gaps out evenly around the piston so none of them line up. Same thing with the oil rings.