I wanna make sure I got the right parts, the GTE stuff is for GE also in this case right?
Cant wait:evil2:
BTW, the head on the connecting rod bolts, what the hell do I use to tighten them?
making sure this is right, ordering final 7mGE parts from Titan
- Thread starter phoenix6
- Start date
I wanna make sure I got the right parts, the GTE stuff is for GE also in this case right?
Cant wait:evil2:
BTW, the head on the connecting rod bolts, what the hell do I use to tighten them?
Are you getting you rod end resized to stock? Jus want to make sure you order the correct bearings 
Also...what about ARP main bolts?
You use a 12 point socket on those bolts.
Also...what about ARP main bolts?
You use a 12 point socket on those bolts.
only replacing the rod bearings, and the rod end resized to stock? Ive had it checked over (the one that knocked) it wasnt bent out of shape in any way at all, its completely circular.
What other bearings would I get other than these? Do they make bigger ones or something? Or do they make a specific size for each rod depending on the numbers?
Like on my rod caps, the first 3 from piston 1 - 3 say this on them in this order:
1-3-2
Diff bearing sizes?
What other bearings would I get other than these? Do they make bigger ones or something? Or do they make a specific size for each rod depending on the numbers?
Like on my rod caps, the first 3 from piston 1 - 3 say this on them in this order:
1-3-2
Diff bearing sizes?
Yeah, bearing sizes are different, clevites usually have to be resized to fit from what I hear any way.
and I thought this was getting done this weekend.Yellow 13 said:
I work too much to have time to take it to one.
Like Yellow said, bearing come in stock and oversize...you will need to measure the ID of the rod end and the OD of the crank journal to determine the correct size. The rod end need to be dressed out at minimum...micro polishing the crank journals should also be done. The bearing clearance (it's in the TRSM) on this motor is critical...if not done right, you're asking for rod knock.
I'd spend the coin on ARP main bolts as well
I'd spend the coin on ARP main bolts as well
I'd go with toyota bearings, I havent experienced a problem with them as long as they dont get starved for oil.
jdub said:Like Yellow said, bearing come in stock and oversize...you will need to measure the ID of the rod end and the OD of the crank journal to determine the correct size. The rod end need to be dressed out at minimum...micro polishing the crank journals should also be done. The bearing clearance (it's in the TRSM) on this motor is critical...if not done right, you're asking for rod knock.
I'd spend the coin on ARP main bolts as well
What if your just replacing old bearings with new toyotas of the same size, would micropolish and rod ends be neccesary?
I'll be doing new bearings sometime next week and if it is necessary Im just gonna do the mains while the cranks out as well then.
Yellow 13 said:
It's the right way to do it...the rod ends can be resized and you use stock bearings, or you have them dressed to a perfect circle and determine if you need a oversize.
Micro polishing removes all the little "scuffs" on both the main and rod journals...depending on the material removed, it may contribute toward the need for oversize bearings. I don't buy bearings until the machine work is done on the crank and rods. Personally, I had the crank balanced as well...just good practice to keep vibration to a minimum.
well, there were no scuffs where the one rod was knocking, it knocked for 2 mins b4 car was shut off for good. Im only wondering why Titan allows me to just say I need 6 bearings and then order? wth?
Ill find out all the numbers on the crank and rod caps tomorrow to have u guys help me, LIke I said b4 I remeber the first three rod caps were 1 - 3 - 2 (2 being the one that had rod knock)
The rod itself is still a perfect circle, and the rest of everything else is A OK, Im just replacing ALL the rod bearings bc Im getting the rod bolts as well.
Ill find out all the numbers on the crank and rod caps tomorrow to have u guys help me, LIke I said b4 I remeber the first three rod caps were 1 - 3 - 2 (2 being the one that had rod knock)
The rod itself is still a perfect circle, and the rest of everything else is A OK, Im just replacing ALL the rod bearings bc Im getting the rod bolts as well.
Im trying to do this fairly cheap (like most of us supra owners) so I think m just gonna reorder the same sizes. Its gonna be a garage queen/spare car for my mom so I dont think its gonna see any sustained High RPM like it would if it were mine.
Its been assembled once already and ran but had some bad knock, turns out one of the bearings was slightly heat scored on the end and didnt show itself until after the rebuild. I'll just have to hope it works out.
Its been assembled once already and ran but had some bad knock, turns out one of the bearings was slightly heat scored on the end and didnt show itself until after the rebuild. I'll just have to hope it works out.
Normal operation of the motor causes wear on the journals...some more than others. You want the rod ends and the journals as smooth as possible to cut down on friction/heat. The bearings do their job with a thin layer of oil between the surfaces...if the journals or rod ends are not perfectly smooth, the bearings will wear prematurely.
Of course you could cut corners and end up doing it again
Of course you could cut corners and end up doing it again
phoenix6 said:
the bearing mightve just been hammered. I remeber IJ telling me about it.
Do they fit snuggly into the rod/caps without falling out or are they loose?
On one of my supras the rods/crank/bearings were all the same size for cylinders 1-3, but the bearings were hammered.
teh journals are the cylinder pieces of the crank that the rod is bolted to right?
Ill take pics tomorrow.
Ill take pics tomorrow.