Why not out-do the Gold V12 MK4 and ask GM if you can "borrow" the V16 from the Caddy Sixteen prototype.
dub it the "Supra Sweet Sixteen"
dub it the "Supra Sweet Sixteen"
speedgilligan;1468584 said:well somebody needs to do it....hell give it to buckshot and let him put it in one of those MKII's he's got :naughty:
Stretch;1468592 said:Did you sort out the front sump issue? Had you decided to modify the sub frame, or convert to dry sump oil pan?
eric
InFrnt0fU;1468598 said:Why not out-do the Gold V12 MK4 and ask GM if you can "borrow" the V16 from the Caddy Sixteen prototype.
dub it the "Supra Sweet Sixteen"
Supraholics;1468624 said:If your idea of getting something done is handing it over to Dave...I feel sorry for you... :biglaugh:
The BIGGEST issue right now is which tranny to go with. If I go with the R154, I'll be looking at custom bellhousing or adapter, Custom flywheel, custom driveshaft, etc. If I go with the BMW 6spd, I'll be looking at custom driveshaft only pretty much (except for mounts and stuff like that) but the tranny along can average anywhere from 2-5K IF you can FIND one. I found one for $2,500 in good shape, but then I'll also have to buy a clutch, flywheel, pumps, etc. A brand new one from BMW is $4,700 including the bell housing only.
limequat;1468625 said:Hmmm. I would say R154 + custom waterjet adapter = done and done.
But you say you want to move the firewall back 3-4". That means 1) You need a custom driveshaft anyway and 2) You'll need to tear up the tunnel anyway.
Therefore, I say T56 + custom waterjet adapter.
Stretch;1468677 said:You could use a button flywheel, which would retain the stock auto flexplate/ring gear and sandwich it between the crank and your button flywheel. It's actually quite common.
Do you have any pics of your subframe modifications?
eric
Stretch;1468808 said:http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-165001.html
Look throught this carefully. It has very pertinent info regarding your transmission swap possibilities.
It depends what year your engine is from. If it is from the 750i E32 (1987–1995), or E38 (1994–2001). From your pics it looks like the earlier one, the E32. It was offered with a 5spd transmission option, but only on the 735 I believe. I have read the 6spd from the v12 in the 850i should possibly work. Obviously if your engine is from the 8 series, then it should deffinitely work .
eric
IJ.;1469911 said:Personally I'd go auto with a good shift controller
Supraholics;1470321 said:Auto for Road racing? If so, what's a good shift controller? Can you give me an example of a tranny shift controller combo? If it does quick shift then I'd definitely think about it. Thanks for the suggestion IJ! Keep 'em coming!
Can't see any reason not to use one!Supraholics;1470321 said:Auto for Road racing? If so, what's a good shift controller? Can you give me an example of a tranny shift controller combo? If it does quick shift then I'd definitely think about it. Thanks for the suggestion IJ! Keep 'em coming!
I was thinking more along the lines of something easily programmable like a PCS so you can tailor it to suit the circuit, not sure how the BMW trans works but if it's solenoids it's not that hard to set up as the PCS can handle 6 forward gears.xxxotiknightz;1470389 said:BMW's SMG trans is a great shift control.
An Auto only builds a lot of heat when it slips so the key would be keeping the convertor locked as much as possible, then benfit to this is it drives more like a manual on/off the gas, you disconnect the brake input that unlocks the convertor during braking and set it up on a speed input so under 20mph it's unlocked.supraguru05;1470505 said:AFAIK auto wont work for road racing as the trans cooler would have to be massive.
IJ.;1470506 said:Can't see any reason not to use one!
I was thinking more along the lines of something easily programmable like a PCS so you can tailor it to suit the circuit, not sure how the BMW trans works but if it's solenoids it's not that hard to set up as the PCS can handle 6 forward gears.
An Auto only builds a lot of heat when it slips so the key would be keeping the convertor locked as much as possible, then benfit to this is it drives more like a manual on/off the gas, you disconnect the brake input that unlocks the convertor during braking and set it up on a speed input so under 20mph it's unlocked.
Of course a couple of B&M Fan forced coolers should be added.